Scotch Brite Pads

[Browns fan]

Can any one give me some help on using these on my 65
‘’go with the grain ‘ means nothing to me
can someone leave DETAILED instructions For each area of the revolver, which direction ect or if any one has a video link
i’ve found nothing on You Tube for doing this by hand.
Thanks all

 

[ACORN]

The way I done it was down from the top rear of the frame(by the hammer) curve around the cylinder window to the front of the frame. On the barrel long ways from rear to front. The cylinder I go rear to front on the flutes and around the circumference on the rest.

 

[jmiles1960]

"Which" Scotch Brite pad are we using here? I've had good results with a metal polish and soft cotton t-shirt. Are you removing deep scratches or swirls? Pics would help.

 

[ACORN]

Personally I used gray.

 

[Browns fan]

"Which" Scotch Brite pad are we using here? I've had good results with a metal polish and soft cotton t-shirt. Are you removing deep scratches or swirls? Pics would help.

Scratches not very deep at all i will be using gray pads with some RIG applied

 

[Racer X]

either light grey or white is the proper color, assuming genuine 3M pads.

 

[Rule3]

Post #13 for the grades of 3M pads.


There are different shades of Gray



http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-sm...ds-cleaning-stainless-guns.html#post141797596

 

[RMFnLA]

I have found Grey 7448 does a good job of recreating the original finish.

 

[alwslate]

How about cleaning old bluing that has turned gray? Will any of them bring back the original blue to a significant degree?

 

[dfariswheel]

God NO.
A Scotchbrite pad is just a different form of sandpaper....It'll strip the bluing almost at the first stroke.

Some people have experimented with a very fine abrasive like Flitz, but polishes are also abrasive....use a little too often or a little too hard and they'll strip bluing.

Other then using a solvent or CLP to remove old dirt and oxidized bluing, there's nothing that can be done to repair bluing other then a full strip and refinish.

 

[noonster]

I’m missing something here. What’s the OP trying to accomplish?

 

[murphydog]

I’m missing something here. What’s the OP trying to accomplish?

Unlike a blue or nickel gun, you can restore a stainless revolver (model 65 in this case) to factory-like appearance with the right supplies and patience.

 

[ACORN]

Unlike a blue or nickel gun, you can restore a stainless revolver (model 65 in this case) to factory-like appearance with the right supplies and patience.

That’s part of the reason I like stainless steel guns.
I’ve refinished an abused 2–1/2” 66-1, and a 64.
The 66 was pitted along the left side where the Pachs fit.
I thought it was just crud but upon closer examination I wanted to vomit.
It took a while to work up the courage to put sandpaper to metal, but once I did it came out nice.

 

[ACORN]

The 64 had deep scratches on the top strap but the rest of the gun was nice.
I sanded out the scratches and finished off wire 120 grip paper IIRC, to give a matte effect.
Now it’s one of my favorites.

 

[Fishinfool]

RE Blued and Nickle guns - In the past, I have used Mothers and Simichrome polish to remove fine scratches in nickel, and to restore a little "pop" on a dulled blue model 29.

As noted above, being abrasive, it must be used sparingly, with common sense. Not as a normal cleaning procedure.

Larry

 

[wood714]

That’s part of the reason I like stainless steel guns.
I’ve refinished an abused 2–1/2” 66-1, and a 64.
The 66 was pitted along the left side where the Pachs fit.
I thought it was just crud but upon closer examination I wanted to vomit.
It took a while to work up the courage to put sandpaper to metal, but once I did it came out nice.

I'd like to get my polished 3" 64 to a factory finish.

Yours looks pretty good.

 

[RMFnLA]

Keep in mind bluing does nothing to protect the metal from corrosion.

Being from Florida, I think stainless steel is the best thing ever.

 

[Walter Rego]

"Going with the grain" means following the original factory polishing lines. Which vary in direction depending upon which part of the gun you are working on. Take a good look under strong light at each section before you start.

Another tip is to use very light pressure. The gray pads are pretty abrasive. Start out using light pressure until you get a feel for how much the pad "cuts" the metal surface. And use a lubricant. I use a few drops of CLP. It's like wet sanding. Polish a tiny area and then use a soft rag to wipe off the dirty oil and observe the results. Repeat.

A final go-over with a white pad may also be required, it will brighten the finish but not as much as using something like Flitz or Simichrome polish. Personally I don't like a high polish or "bright finish" stainless and it sure won't look like a factory original finish if you do it. But it's your gun and if that makes you happy....

 

[Vtgw938]

Exactly as member Walter Rego said.