Seat & Crimp combo die

[Ronan24]

Has anyone used a seat/crimp combo die? if so, what was your experience & what brand would you recommend? I have a Dillon S1050 and want to purchase a bullet feeder but don't want to lose my ability to check the powder. Therefore; the only option is to go with the seat/crimp combo die in one station. After hours of research; I'm still contemplating whether I should do it or not. I'm tired of sitting there and place bullets on top of each cartridge. I don't mind cranking (hence, never an auto drive) but want to automate the process somewhat. From my readings, it seems like RCBS makes the best one currently in the market but I trust the folks on this forum and would love to hear from you since you all have a lot more experience than I do.
Thanks for your feedback in advance.

 

[ken158]

Seat and crimp was the standard for years and served most very well.

 

[MN2944]

I think the single die solution works fine for anything but a heavy roll crimp.

 

[damienph]

I've used RCBS and Lyman with good results but I do like the Lee FCD - Factory Crimp Dies and have bought one for every set of dies that I have.

 

[Doubless]

I have only used the seater/crimp die from RCBS in about a dozen calibers since 1980. It is the only way I load handgun ammunition, as that is the way the Piggyback is designed... set it correctly and you will have no trouble at all.

Oh, and I don't trim handgun brass, either...

 

[Engineer1911]

I have only used the seater/crimp die from RCBS in about a dozen calibers since 1980. It is the only way I load handgun ammunition, as that is the way the Piggyback is designed... set it correctly and you will have no trouble at all.

Oh, and I don't trim handgun brass, either...

Do you at least check case length? I have had 357 mag brass that was too long and caused a high chamber pressure problem. By trimming my brass, I get a consistent crimp in 357 and 44 mag ammo.

 

[joeintexas]

I too use the RCBS seat and crimp die on 9mm, works just fine. I use the factory crimp die on 45acp, no particular reason just always done it that way.

 

[damienph]

Do you at least check case length? I have had 357 mag brass that was too long and caused a high chamber pressure problem. By trimming my brass, I get a consistent crimp in 357 and 44 mag ammo.

In my opinion. Trimming your brass ensures a consistent crimp. Not sure why one would not care about case length on any cartridge. I've been hand loading since 1976; I may not always clean primer pockets or tumble fired brass but I do ensure that cartridge case lengths are between min and max.

 

[scooter123]

In a seat/crimp die the RCBS is as good as anyones AND you can purchase them as individual dies. This means that if you are using 2 or 3 bullets for 45 ACP you can have a seat/crimp die set up for each bullet. That will save you many many hours over the years in not having to tinker with one die per caliber.

BTW, I happen to have 3 for 45 ACP, one for 230 grain RN, one for Hornady 185 grain XTP, and one for a spare. Tip, with a bit of white paint under the knurled area at the top and a Sharpie Fine tip you can mark what die is what.

However, if you plan on loading long small diameter cases like the 357 Magnum you will find that you have to trim every case to a specific length or you will find some cases that are "long" will buckle when you try and do the combined seat and crimp.

I can also tell you that the jacketing on some bullets like the Speer Gold Dots is soft enough that you will shave a ring of copper from the jacketing on every bullet you load using a combined Seat/Crimp, even if you set the crimp to the point where it's almost nonexistent. I do not know if this stray bit of copper would actually cause function issues but not liking the idea of stray copper in my firearms I don't use a combined Seat/Crimp with the Gold Dots.

 

[gwpercle]

What round are you reloading and what dies are you using ?
The dies you have now probably are seat/crimp in one step as that is how most are made.
Gary

 

[SMSgt]

I've reloaded .38s, .357s, .41 Mag, 9mm Makarov, 9mm Luger, .45 ACP all with seat/crimp dies and never trimmed a single case. Never had a problem crunching a case except during hurried die adjustment (Lesson there!). A properly adjusted seat/crimp die works as well as separate operations. Just have to set it up right. Your results may vary.

Didn't this get discussed at length last week?

Oh, and all my dies are RCBS except for one so-so Lee set.

 

[jculloden]

RCBS end of story

 

[Ronan24]

In a seat/crimp die the RCBS is as good as anyones AND you can purchase them as individual dies. This means that if you are using 2 or 3 bullets for 45 ACP you can have a seat/crimp die set up for each bullet. That will save you many many hours over the years in not having to tinker with one die per caliber.

BTW, I happen to have 3 for 45 ACP, one for 230 grain RN, one for Hornady 185 grain XTP, and one for a spare. Tip, with a bit of white paint under the knurled area at the top and a Sharpie Fine tip you can mark what die is what.

However, if you plan on loading long small diameter cases like the 357 Magnum you will find that you have to trim every case to a specific length or you will find some cases that are "long" will buckle when you try and do the combined seat and crimp.

I can also tell you that the jacketing on some bullets like the Speer Gold Dots is soft enough that you will shave a ring of copper from the jacketing on every bullet you load using a combined Seat/Crimp, even if you set the crimp to the point where it's almost nonexistent. I do not know if this stray bit of copper would actually cause function issues but not liking the idea of stray copper in my firearms I don't use a combined Seat/Crimp with the Gold Dots.

Interesting tips Scooter123. Thanks for the info.

 

[Ronan24]

What round are you reloading and what dies are you using ?
The dies you have now probably are seat/crimp in one step as that is how most are made.
Gary

Gary: I'm reloading 357 Mag and 9mm. My press is a Dillon Super 1050 and has separate seat & crimp dies since they're the last two stations on the press. The predicament that I'm in is that if I want to continue with separate seat and crimp stations; then I have to give up my powder check station if I want to use Mr. Bullet Feeder, and I don't really want to do that. Therefore, the only remaining option is to use a combined seat&crimp die. Based on what I hear; the RCBS combo die seems to be the logical choice and so long as you set it correctly, it should work. Based on the replies from much more experienced loaders; I'm leaning that way. some folks complain but it seems like they're not setting it up properly (see doubless' reply). It also seems like I do have to be mindful of the OAL and might have to trim some. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Cheers.

 

[rockquarry]

Except in rare instances, you shouldn't have to trim a handgun cartridge case, magnums included. Seating/crimp dies that come with a regular die set should work fine.

Degree of crimp is a relative term; means different things to different people. Crimp just enough so a cartridge chambers, ignition is right ( no or minimal unburned powder) and the bullet is held in place under recoil - no more. May take a little experimentation, but it's time well spent and the loads will be more accurate.

If you're doing everything right, a factory crimp is never needed.

One can make this a lot of work, but it's not necessary.

 

[nickytwotones]

RCBS end of story

I love this. So blunt!!! Very reassuring.

 

[Clovishound]

I have used both the Lee seat and crimp and the FCD in 9mm. Didn't notice any real difference. It is easier to adjust things with two separate operations. I have always used the seat and crimp in .38 without issue.

I really like having a powder check die, especially in deep cartridges like .38 special.

 

[BruceM]

Except in rare instances, you shouldn't have to trim a handgun cartridge case, magnums included. Seating/crimp dies that come with a regular die set should work fine.

Degree of crimp is a relative term; means different things to different people. Crimp just enough so a cartridge chambers, ignition is right ( no or minimal unburned powder) and the bullet is held in place under recoil - no more. May take a little experimentation, but it's time well spent and the loads will be more accurate.

If you're doing everything right, a factory crimp is never needed.

One can make this a lot of work, but it's not necessary.

I agree with most everything above as it pertains to revolver rounds. Note however that keeping the bullet from jumping the crimp in most revolver rounds depends on high neck tension more than anything else. Seating & crimping can be achieved in a single step also. The big .45 and .500 magnums are the exception to this and required most everything you can throw at them to keep the bullets in place. Generally, more consistent crimp due to trimmed cases will show up on the chrono but are not significantly on the target until you get out past 50 meters.

With autoloader rounds, especially using cast bullets, seating and crimping in separate operations is the way to go most times. It eliminates a lot of minor problems although neck tension and not crimp is the determining factor in preventing bullet setback. I've never seen a real need for the FCD and I suppose I never will. I understand however that there are those who find their use a expedient work around and the finished product they produce meets their needs quite nicely.

Bruce

 

[kbm6893]

I crimp seperately. The seating die is set to no crimp. Just the way I like to do it.