I've been wanting a moderate priced 3 inch semi auto 12 gauge and was on Gunbroker bidding on a synthetic Beretta Outlander then my local gun store had a sale on all their used guns and I saw a Camo Stoeger M3000 for only $340. Someone outbid me on the Beretta so yesterday I went down to buy the Stoeger but next to it in the rack was a brand new condition Remington 1187 Sportsman Field with beautiful walnut stocks. Remington autos seem kind of boring to me because they've been around forever and are gas operated instead of the new and modern inertia designs but I love pretty wood so I picked it up for under 400 bucks. The problem is, the wood is beautiful but it seems to have very little if any, protective finish. I bought a Rossi M92 that's the same way and I tried Johnsons paste wax but it didn't seem to help, so was wondering about some type of finish or clear coat to seal and protect the wood, any thoughts?
Shotgun stock seal coat?
- Thread starter Farmer17
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Well, personally I am not a fan of glossy stocks. The last stock I did was a 1917 Enfield and I put about 20 coats of Formby's tung oil by hand. When we were kids our hunting 22's and shotguns were bare wood, rubbed with a mixture of hot linseed oil and pumice several times, and then a couple coats of Butcher's bowling alley wax. Guess it depends on what kind of finish you want, but the oil and wax id tough and easy to fix scuffs
I am not a fan of glossy either. It shows defects too easily and in a duck blind they are a serious detriment.
I refinished all my “show” stocks with boiled linseed as I like the darker finish it gives over tung oil. With either tung or linseed, you get a scratch and the repair is easy. Sand down and apply oil.
I have owned several Rem semi autos and several Benelli’s. I dont shoot semi’s anymore nor do I shoot 12 ga anymore. But the Remington’s are a lot more comfortable as the gas system uses up a lot of the recoil. Plus the guns are a little heavier.
I refinished all my “show” stocks with boiled linseed as I like the darker finish it gives over tung oil. With either tung or linseed, you get a scratch and the repair is easy. Sand down and apply oil.
I have owned several Rem semi autos and several Benelli’s. I dont shoot semi’s anymore nor do I shoot 12 ga anymore. But the Remington’s are a lot more comfortable as the gas system uses up a lot of the recoil. Plus the guns are a little heavier.
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daddio202
Member
Here you go just get some Flitz wax. Says protects up to 6 moths but just use it before every outing to be sure. Protects against a list of things including blood. Keep that beautiful wood beautiful with this wax- has worked well for me.
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F75gunslinger
Member
I would suggest Tru-oil. You can put as many layers on as you like to get the finish you want. I just follow the directions on the container,and have had good results.
I would bet that if you try to put an oil finish on the wood of your new
Remington that you will find that it does indeed have some kind of finish
that will prevent the oil from penetrating. Wax might be your best option.
Remington that you will find that it does indeed have some kind of finish
that will prevent the oil from penetrating. Wax might be your best option.
gwpercle
Member
You want a protective finish before a coat of wax....wax is not the easiest or most durable finish to apply on bare wood.
After many years refinishing wood furniture and wood gun stocks one product stands out ...True Oil is a modified Linseed oil finish , I've used it a lot... it's good....But there is a product I like better, a modified Tung oil finish.... Min-Wax Tung Oil Finish .
The trouble with straight , unmodified oils is they are slow drying and never produce a hard surface film. True Oil and Min-Wax Tung Oil Finish have dryers added so they will harden . In the hot humid south straight plain old linseed oil and Tung oil will get tacky in your hand on a hot humid day.
I like the looks and final finish of the Min-Wax Tung Oil finish better than True-Oil .
Some will say...you have to use plain oil but over 50 years of finishing wood has proven to me plain oil leaves a lot to be desired ...the improved finishes are better and the MW Tung oil Finish is my favorite.
Oil finishes do bring out and enhance the color of wood..you will need to remove all the old finish to do a proper job.
When a durable surface film has been applied , rub it down and wax it, you will have a good looking well protected shotgun.
Walnut Rules !
Gary
After many years refinishing wood furniture and wood gun stocks one product stands out ...True Oil is a modified Linseed oil finish , I've used it a lot... it's good....But there is a product I like better, a modified Tung oil finish.... Min-Wax Tung Oil Finish .
The trouble with straight , unmodified oils is they are slow drying and never produce a hard surface film. True Oil and Min-Wax Tung Oil Finish have dryers added so they will harden . In the hot humid south straight plain old linseed oil and Tung oil will get tacky in your hand on a hot humid day.
I like the looks and final finish of the Min-Wax Tung Oil finish better than True-Oil .
Some will say...you have to use plain oil but over 50 years of finishing wood has proven to me plain oil leaves a lot to be desired ...the improved finishes are better and the MW Tung oil Finish is my favorite.
Oil finishes do bring out and enhance the color of wood..you will need to remove all the old finish to do a proper job.
When a durable surface film has been applied , rub it down and wax it, you will have a good looking well protected shotgun.
Walnut Rules !
Gary
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Tex1001
Member
Urethane spar varnish, satin finish. 2 coats.
After it cures, go over it with 0000 steel wool, then paste wax.
Wood will then be sealed.
After it cures, go over it with 0000 steel wool, then paste wax.
Wood will then be sealed.
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bananaman
Member
I have always used Birchwood Casey Tru Oil for refinishing my stocks. I now use Minwax spray Lacquer. It can be had in gloss, semi gloss & matte. It sure works well for me. My 10-5 with custom stocks that I used Min-Wax on. Bob
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Do you sand with like 2000 or 3000 grit between coats?
nachogrande
Member
WOOD FINISH
For nice wood, +1 on tung oil. For a tough as nails finish for say hog hunting, West system epoxy then an automotive clear coat & buff to desired gloss/matte. Don't forget, you own the insides too.
For nice wood, +1 on tung oil. For a tough as nails finish for say hog hunting, West system epoxy then an automotive clear coat & buff to desired gloss/matte. Don't forget, you own the insides too.
EdinDenver
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The issue that you're going to have with that shotgun before you worry about the wood stock is the O-Rings wear out (they're rubber - they deteriorate with time no different than rubber bands). If you use harsh stuff like Birchwood Casey Gun Scrubber, it's even worse. You can buy 3 packs of O-Rings on Amazon.com for $7-$9. Keep a package in your cleaning kit.
With relation to the stock, I would recommend the CMP article on stock maintenance. It's geared more toward USGI stocks but it applies to just about any stock out there. No need to sand down and refinish when you get dings (a steam iron works well). I'm also not a fan of shiny stocks - but feeding it a good oil once or twice per year (before and after hunting season) could do what you want to accomplish.
Wood Cleaning Article - Civilian Marksmanship ProgramCivilian Marksmanship Program
With relation to the stock, I would recommend the CMP article on stock maintenance. It's geared more toward USGI stocks but it applies to just about any stock out there. No need to sand down and refinish when you get dings (a steam iron works well). I'm also not a fan of shiny stocks - but feeding it a good oil once or twice per year (before and after hunting season) could do what you want to accomplish.
Wood Cleaning Article - Civilian Marksmanship ProgramCivilian Marksmanship Program
MCorps0311
US Veteran
Sweet awesome revolvers.
Frank46
US Veteran
Here is what I do. Sand to bare wood vacume off all saw dust. Brush on one coat sanding sealer. Especially where the butt pad goes, and inside the pump handle after checking wether or not the forend is aligned properly with the front of the receiver. They in fact do sell wrenches for loosening the forend nut which allows you to align the forend with the receiver. Sand down the 1st coat of sanding sealer.Remove all dust. Apply 2nd coat of sanding sealer sand smooth and remove the dust. I use Linspeed hand rubbed on top of the two coats of sealer. 4-6 coats should be ok. If too shiney some motor oil and pumice on a folded up section of T shirt to cut the shine. when you get the sheen knocked down clean t shirt and remove the oil and pumice. Time consuming but it really makes your stock weather resistant and instead of your gunsmith you did it. Frank
I just take it down to bare wood and then rub however many coats it needs of Klean Strip Boiled Linseed Oil into it, buffing about two hour after application. I allow 24-48 hours in between coats. I may thin the first couple of coats 33% with Pure Spirits of Gum Turpentine to get the oil to penetrate.The Klean Strip brand has a drier in it so it doesn't get gummy or oily in the heat. Four or five coats gives a nice satin to semi gloss finish. More might be needed if you have an extremely dry stock or want more shine. If you want glossy try Tru Oil instead. The great thing about rubbing oils is no runs to worry about, they buff out with a soft cloth.
