Silencerco suppressors

[lihpster]

Thinking about buying my first suppressor. Looking at the Sparrow vs. the Switchback. To those who have used them, is the Switchback worth the extra money? I plan on using it on both long guns and handguns. Pros and cons? Never dabbled in the quiet arts, so any info will be appreciated.

 

[wood714]

Which ever one you get...don't forget to remove the Nielsen Device AKA piston booster before using it on a long gun.

 

[zeke]

Thinking about buying my first suppressor. Looking at the Sparrow vs. the Switchback. To those who have used them, is the Switchback worth the extra money? I plan on using it on both long guns and handguns. Pros and cons? Never dabbled in the quiet arts, so any info will be appreciated.

Both are 22 lr suppressors and don't come with a nielson device as vast majority of 22 pistols are fixed barrels (at least that i know about, likely there are always exceptions to everything).

Suppressors with Nielson devices are made for locked breech handguns, and as wood714 indicated, need to be removed to use on fixed barrels.

Have been pleased with the sparrow owned, and it is a proven long running durable design. Not familiar with the switchback, but usually any newer design has you tube video comparisons.

 

[EPVegas]

I have the switchback and love it. I sometimes shoot it on a beretta 21a, so like the ability to shorten it. Very easy to clean as well

 

[huntsman22]

The Sparrow is a monocore design, and may give first round pop on pistols. Not a big deal to me, and I like my Sparrow. That said, I like the OCL Ti22, Tbac takedown 22, PWS BDE 22 ti, and Dead Air Mask better.....

 

[lihpster]

That said, I like the OCL Ti22, Tbac takedown 22, PWS BDE 22 ti, and Dead Air Mask better.....

Can I ask why?

 

[wood714]

I was thinking they were center fire silencers...sorry!

I'd go with the Sparrow, but both have stainless baffles. The Sparrow has a stainless tube with a single end cap like my YHM Mite. Their super easy to clean if you use the dip, it's a 50/50 mix of peroxide, and vinegar. Just let it soak a few hours then rinse off and dry, will look like new.

Both the Sparrow and my YHM have mono cores that seem impossible to actually work, but they do. Mine is almost Hollywood quiet with CCI SV or subs.

https://www.ammunitiontogo.com/lodge/best-22-suppressor-sparrow-vs-switchback/

 

[lihpster]

I was thinking they were center fire silencers...sorry!

Nothing to be sorry about. I'm just learning this stuff. One of the reasons I asked if the Switchback was worth the extra money is that it is "tunable" to pistols and rifles. Just wondering if that was worth it with a low pressure round like the .22 LR. But thank you for responding! This type of thing is why I love this place!

 

[wood714]

Nothing to be sorry about. I'm just learning this stuff. One of the reasons I asked if the Sidewinder was worth the extra money is that it is "tunable" to pistols and rifles. Just wondering if that was worth it with a low pressure round like the .22 LR. But thank you for responding! This type of thing is why I love this place!

I know zero about the changeable size silencers, but I can't think of a reason I'd want a shorter louder set up.

Lot of people get bent out of shape calling them silencers, kinda like mag and clip. When you fill out the ATF paperwork there is no option for suppressor...only silencer.

 

[huntsman22]

Can I ask why?

Because they are lighter, being titanium. All of them sound close, but baffles beat monocore for FRP. That said, the BDE 22 is a monocore with NO FRP, and is TI..... Nothing wrong with most any choice, as they all work. But give me Ti, or give me death....grin

 

[ladder13]

I have a Rugged Oculus which is modular. I have shot it both as a long and short version and can’t tell the difference in sound.
Modular also makes for a more compact suppressor if space or better concealment/maneuverability matter.

 

[zeke]

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-K6PwCTRna0[/ame]

direct comparison and seems to be worth watching

 

[gdpolk]

Sparrow is the long term gold standard in the rimfire world for a good balance of performance, ease of service/maintenance, and being from a company that has stood the test of time and is likely to keep alive and maintain customer support/service.

Dead Air Mask is similar quality, a tiny bit more quiet, and has a good bit less first round pop if that matters to you (hunting it may but range use it may not). It too is from a solid, reputable company that is likely to stay around for a good long time.

The switchback looks enticing with modularity but the whole point of suppression is noise attenuation and I don't think you'd opt for less attenuation with any sort of regularity.

 

[huntsman22]

ditto.....

 

[huntsman22]

Here's my 22 can family pic.L to R, pair of OCL Ti22's, TBAC Takedown22, Huxwrx Flow Ti22, BDE 22, pair DA Mask's, Banish22 and SparrowSS

 

[mrchick]

Here's my 22 can family pic.L to R, pair of OCL Ti22's, TBAC Takedown22, Huxwrx Flow Ti22, BDE 22, pair DA Mask's, Banish22 and SparrowSS

Looks like there is a need for Silencer 12-step programs[emoji1] Nice collection!

I’m a big fan of the Dead Air Mask. Dead quiet on my Tikka rifle and almost as quiet on my Ruger MKII and Sig P322.

 

[forindooruseonly]

My advice is two-fold - stay away from aluminum, even for just .22, and don't think that you are just going to buy one and have it as a do-all... No one that I know who bought "just one can" actually held to it. They tend to multiply.

I have a Dead Air Mask and a Silencerco Spectre II - both a great. That said, I have a cheap YHM that is effective enough that if you aren't shooting them side by side, you'd never tell the difference. Any modern silencer by a reputable company will be fine.

However, if you are concerned about the bestest, most quietest, then your host plays a big role in suppression. My Ruger MK is actually louder than my super cheap GSG 1911 rimfire by a noticeable margin, no matter what can is on it.

Moral of the story, don't get overwhelmed in all the information overload. Just buy one and get on with it.

 

[bobsguns]

One of the reasons I asked if the Switchback was worth the extra money is that it is "tunable" to pistols and rifles. Just wondering if that was worth it with a low pressure round like the .22 LR.

Unless you plan on shooting @ Camp Perry, I wouldn't bother with the "tunable" can. Just make sure it disassembles easily for cleaning.

Anything made by Silencerco is top notch. I have a couple of theirs, love them.

To my knowledge, they're the only company making the Osprey-design on their cans. Allows for almost all pistol owners to use the OEM sights as the can doesn't block the front sight picture.

 

[bobsguns]

Moral of the story, don't get overwhelmed in all the information overload. Just buy one and get on with it.

Yeah, I'm gonna disagree with that.

As already mentioned, the entire function of a can is to reduce noise. So why not look at the ones rated to reduce the most dB?

Second thing to look at it is ease of cleaning, IMO. Some cans are sealed, most are not.

Last thing is the price, at least for me.

 

[bobsguns]

Thinking about buying my first suppressor. Looking at the Sparrow vs. the Switchback.

Allow me to suggest a slightly different track.

Get a can rated for 5.7x28 instead. Then it can handle .22LR, .22mag AND 5.7 without changing anything. Price is not much higher than a straight .22LR can & 10 times more versatile.

Another train of thought is looking at a 5.56 can. It will easily handle any caliber below it as long as it's in the .22 diameter. The downside is, it'll probably cost 2X as much as a 5.7 can. Certainly 2X as a dedicated .22 can. But the upside is you can use it on your ARs.

I have made every mistake possible in buying my early couple of cans. In short, I didn't do my homework beforehand. Hard lessons learned.

I always look at dB reduction rating first. Much like we look at horsepower on a car first, IMO. Some mfgrs list theirs, some don't. However, there are a lot of web sites of guys who list those sorts of things as a comparison. Some are video, some are written. I prefer the written ones myself, YMMV.

When it comes to finally buying one, look for a shop that has an electronic kiosk for fingerprints. Makes life a LOT easier on the buying process. Not all Class 3 shops are equal either, FWIW. Don't be afraid to shop around before you buy.

Thank about a NFA trust as well. This allows you to add or remove names of people who are allowed to possess the can. There're several web sites that explain the process much better than I do.

In short, I use three criteria: noise reduction, ease of cleaning & price. I want the best possible combo when I spend my $$$.

My .o2