WhistlerSWE
Member
I just got my 686-1 back from the gunsmith. You can say that I am PO'd, to put it mildly.
This is a 2,5" 686-1 that has the "M" stamp on the frame, meaning that it has been in for modification after recall. I have read that a lot of these guns had problems, unfortunately I didn't know the dash number until I got the gun home.
I ordered a new front sight and a complete DA job for PPC. The original front sight was milled off and a target sight was installed, but there were burrs all over the areas he had worked on, so it took an evening with a needle file to make it look good.
The gun wouldn't pass the security check when cocked in SA and weighed down, so he polished/filed the SA sear. It now holds when cocked, but that is all he did with the action.
I wanted the "floating hand" replaced with a normal one, but got the answer "It's supposed to be there". This is a gunsmith that is renowned for his work and has been doing his thing for more than forty years. You can imagine my disappointment, when going through all the trouble of sending it, paying and so on and soforth and he does nothing but the bare minimum of making it pass competition security check.
Anyway... I made a try myself on the action, I changed to a 13lb Wolff rebound spring and a 10lb Wolff main spring (I only use Federal 100 primers, so no worries there), but still the DA pull was really, really hard.
First I thought it was bad ratchets in the star that made trigger pull hard, because the action is fine and smooth if I remove the cylinder.
In the end I narrowed it down to the fact that when the trigger is pulled halfway in DA, you can spin the cylinder - something I always do to make sure nothing is wrong when I'm at the shooting line. My other S&W revolvers will easily spin four or five clicks before stopping, but this gun will stop on the first or second. It is really slow and hard to spin.
I have gathered that when the extractor rod is bent, the pull is hard and gives bad timing on just one or two chambers, but mine is equally sluggish on all six. Might it be the yoke that has been damaged?
Is it possible to just order a new yoke and install it on my existing cylinder assembly without fitting?
(sorry for wall of text)
This is a 2,5" 686-1 that has the "M" stamp on the frame, meaning that it has been in for modification after recall. I have read that a lot of these guns had problems, unfortunately I didn't know the dash number until I got the gun home.
I ordered a new front sight and a complete DA job for PPC. The original front sight was milled off and a target sight was installed, but there were burrs all over the areas he had worked on, so it took an evening with a needle file to make it look good.
The gun wouldn't pass the security check when cocked in SA and weighed down, so he polished/filed the SA sear. It now holds when cocked, but that is all he did with the action.
I wanted the "floating hand" replaced with a normal one, but got the answer "It's supposed to be there". This is a gunsmith that is renowned for his work and has been doing his thing for more than forty years. You can imagine my disappointment, when going through all the trouble of sending it, paying and so on and soforth and he does nothing but the bare minimum of making it pass competition security check.
Anyway... I made a try myself on the action, I changed to a 13lb Wolff rebound spring and a 10lb Wolff main spring (I only use Federal 100 primers, so no worries there), but still the DA pull was really, really hard.
First I thought it was bad ratchets in the star that made trigger pull hard, because the action is fine and smooth if I remove the cylinder.
In the end I narrowed it down to the fact that when the trigger is pulled halfway in DA, you can spin the cylinder - something I always do to make sure nothing is wrong when I'm at the shooting line. My other S&W revolvers will easily spin four or five clicks before stopping, but this gun will stop on the first or second. It is really slow and hard to spin.
I have gathered that when the extractor rod is bent, the pull is hard and gives bad timing on just one or two chambers, but mine is equally sluggish on all six. Might it be the yoke that has been damaged?
Is it possible to just order a new yoke and install it on my existing cylinder assembly without fitting?
(sorry for wall of text)
