Smith and Wesson got them right! The 586 and the 686 L Frames. Range Report

Tom_R

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Smith and Wesson engineers and designers got the L Frame design right in the 1970’s.

As they transitioned away from the pinned and recessed models into the L Frame, they ended up making possibly the greatest family of .357 Magnum Revolvers when all things are considered.

Consider the DNA of the 586/686 family.

It had the carry-ability ergonomics of the K Frame’s Grip frame, the stoutness and strength of the N Frame, and some of the Panache of the Colt Python with the Full underlug.

Often times when trying to design something to pay tribute or take pieces of multiple different items and combine them, it falls short. That is not the case here. The blend results into something that stands tall on its own.

I took two Revolvers with me to the range today.

A 2.5” 686-3 with Factory Finger Groove Combats.

I bench rested about 25 rounds of .38spcl just to see what I had, and what I could do with it.

Good shooter, and I definitely would carry it without hesitation. It will be my trail gun in the spring/summer.

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I am also blessed to own this 4” 586-1. It is the best shooting firearm I own. The person who owned it before me either shot it a lot and smoothed the trigger out so it’s like glass, or they had a trigger job done it. It times perfectly and the break is like glass.

I am honestly not that consistent of a shot, but this one just shoots unbelievably. The grips are John Culina (Kurac) Finger Groove Combats. They fit my hand perfectly.

The 586 carries on the tradition of the Pinned and Recessed .357s that came before it.

I put about 30 rounds through it on this target. The flier at 12:00 in the 5 ring was my last shot.

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I had a 686-4. From a shooting standpoint, the second most regretted gun i ever sold. It’s big brother, a 629-4 was the most regretted. I have replaced the 629 and need to locate a good 4” 686.
 
Tom , very nice set of L-Frames you have ! Good shooting too! One feature that all the 686s I have owned had in common was excellent accuracy. I plan to shoot my pair of 686-4s a lot more in the coming weeks.
 
Great looking guns love those Culinas they are awesome and I believe you may have something with your L frame theory ,robust ,easy to carry ,powerful what's not to love.
 
Just got my first 686 yesterday, a -6 with a 6" barrel and I will take it to the range tomorrow. I hope it performs like yours do. Those are good looking groups.
 
M Stamp?

Looking at a real nice no dash 686 without the M stamp. Is S&W still doing the modification for no charge on these?
 
Looking at a real nice no dash 686 without the M stamp. Is S&W still doing the modification for no charge on these?

My understanding is that they will still address the firing pin nose issue at no charges even to this day.

Give them a buzz on Monday.
 
Bought a 4 inch 586 when they first came out to use as a duty gun. After many years carried in a holster, and many thousands of rounds thru it, it aint pretty anymore, but in my opinion, it is still the best all around .357 revolver out there. A snubby K frame might conceal better, and a long tube N frame might be a better range / hunting option, but that L frame just feels right.

Larry
 
Thanks for posting that. That is darn impressive at 25 yards with a snubbie.
 
Looking at a real nice no dash 686 without the M stamp. Is S&W still doing the modification for no charge on these?

YES THEY ARE. BE AWARE THAT NOT EVERY NO-DASH, OR 686-1 IS IN NEED OF THE MOD. IF YOU ARE GOING TO USE YOUR 686 AS A RANGE GUN, EXCLUSIVELY, YOU WILL PROBABLY BE OK, WO HAVING THE MODS DONE. OBVIOUSLY THAT REVOLVER HAS BEEN IN SERVICE FOR MANY YEARS, AND HAS NEVER EXHIBITED THE PROBLEM. THE ISSUE IS SUCH, THAT IT COULD/WOULD NOT BE IGNORED BY A PREVIOUS OWNER.....

IF YOUR INTENDED USE IS CCW/SD OR HD, THERE IS NO NEED TO TAKE A CHANCE. JUST CALL S&W CS, AND REQUEST A SHIPPING LABEL. THE MOD AND SHIPPING, BOTH WAYS, ARE FREE......

BTW--- THIS PRESENTS A GOLDEN OPPORTUNITY TO HAVE ANY OTHER GUNSMITH SERVICES PERFORMED, WHILE THE SHIPPING IS FREE. I HAD A 7 SHOT CYLINDER FITTED TO MY 2 1/2" NO-DASH. MY INTENT WAS TO CREATE A FORMIDABLE, AND RELIABLE, EDC WEAPON FOR SELF DEFENSE......
 

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I agree that this is one of the many that S&W got right. The 66 / 19 family was another one. I have multiple 586's and 686's. You should try the 8 3/8 guns, they are really accurate and a pure joy to shoot with full mag loads. I can hit a 10" plate at 75 yards off hand regularly with it. Yes, they are a bit heavy, but that makes the rounds feel soft even though they are pushing 1400 FPS plus. If I had a place to do it I would bet you could hit that plate at 2 x the distance off a rest. The problem is that the sight covers most of the target even at 75. I have a set of wood aftermarket finger groove combats on the 586 and I love that gun. It was the first S&W I purchased. I bought it for 250.00 many years age from a guy who was scared off by the recall. I just sent it in for the work last year, so they are still doing the upgrade. I didn't have a lot of problems with it locking up, but it did every so often so I sent it in. They got it back to me in 3 weeks. It must have been in good shape because there were no parts replaced when they did the work. It is my understanding they may replace worn parts when they do recall work. I assume, they do this to eliminate any liability that may be incurred by returning a gun that is out of spec. Kind of a knew or should have known scenario. Good luck with these guns and pick em up when you see em cause they aren't getting any cheaper and they don't make em like that anymore. I would concentrate on the -4's as they seem to be considered to be the best engineering change series. I think it is all of the endurance upgrades without MIM parts.

L
 
I agree that this is one of the many that S&W got right. The 66 / 19 family was another one. I have multiple 586's and 686's. You should try the 8 3/8 guns, they are really accurate and a pure joy to shoot with full mag loads. I can hit a 10" plate at 75 yards off hand regularly with it. Yes, they are a bit heavy, but that makes the rounds feel soft even though they are pushing 1400 FPS plus. If I had a place to do it I would bet you could hit that plate at 2 x the distance off a rest. The problem is that the sight covers most of the target even at 75. I have a set of wood aftermarket finger groove combats on the 586 and I love that gun. It was the first S&W I purchased. I bought it for 250.00 many years age from a guy who was scared off by the recall. I just sent it in for the work last year, so they are still doing the upgrade. I didn't have a lot of problems with it locking up, but it did every so often so I sent it in. They got it back to me in 3 weeks. It must have been in good shape because there were no parts replaced when they did the work. It is my understanding they may replace worn parts when they do recall work. I assume, they do this to eliminate any liability that may be incurred by returning a gun that is out of spec. Kind of a knew or should have known scenario. Good luck with these guns and pick em up when you see em cause they aren't getting any cheaper and they don't make em like that anymore. I would concentrate on the -4's as they seem to be considered to be the best engineering change series. I think it is all of the endurance upgrades without MIM parts.

L

I AGREE, THE 8 3/8" S&W REVOLVERS ARE REALLY SOMETHING SPECIAL. I OWN A M617, NO-DASH, AND A M686 NO-DASH IN THAT BARREL LENGTH. BOTH CARRY 30MM, ULTRA DOT OPTICS, MOUNTED IN NO-DRILL MOUNTS. EACH OF THEM WEARS FACTORY SB COMBAT GRIPS. BOTH OF THEM ARE SUPERBLY ACCURATE--SHOOTING MORE LIKE RIFLES THAN HANDGUNS, OFF THE BAGS. EACH OF THEM IS SOMEWHAT SCARCE, AND NICE ONES ARE PRICEY......

MY M617 IS SHOWN BELOW
 

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I AGREE, THE 8 3/8" S&W REVOLVERS ARE REALLY SOMETHING SPECIAL.

You are correct sir. My 8 3/8" 17-6 with Herrett's Shooting Stars is a joy for me and 1st time shooters.

Back to the 686 though. The one I mentioned in my previous post was $700 at a gun show, looked perfect on the outside but still a used one. I can get a new one from a local shop for @$730, so I'd like to know if there's a justifiable reason to spend $700 on the earlier model.
 
OP:the proverbial glass rod break trigger is,I think a trademark of the L.I own a 586 no dash no M bought new and it had it since the very first shot.
Actually,I just told a couple weeks ago one of my friends that if I'd have to choose between my Python and my 586,I'd keep the Smith.Hopefully,I'll never ever have to get to that point though.
 
Just back from my first range trip with my new 686-6, 6" and I decided to call it Goldilocks, because it is not too big, not too small, but just right. It has replaced my 629-6, 6.5" as my favorite.

I tried 23 .357 loads and 12 38 special loads. It did OK with everything, liked more than half of them and loved 6 of them. It was also zeroed for 25 yards right out of the box with some of them and the rest were not far off.

Its a good thing I reload as I am going to have trouble limiting the amount of ammo I shoot with it. Good SA trigger, heavy DA trigger but smooth. I will not think about an action and trigger job until I have a few thousand rounds through it.
 
I thought my first revolver was the best a 4' inch 19. Got a 6' 586 and Wilson redo the trigger and action. Was my new favorite. Then I got a 686P 2 1/2" box smoothest action of them all.

I now carry the 686P daily and but a scope on the 586. Took 2 deer and one hog.686P shot 2 IDPA round with it and now my new favorite

Agree with everyone the L frame engineering done right
 
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