Smith & Wesson Blued Finishes

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Did Smith & Wesson ever produce more than one type of blue finish? There was a recent online sale of a very nice (1973 production) Model 29-2 in a presentation case. The ad read "high polished blue finish". This revolver brought, what I thought to be a substantial premium, and I am trying to educate myself as to whether or not it was because of the finish.
 
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Well, im no expert by a long shot but, from what I understand the bluing process changed in 1980? Maybe a hair later?
Those guns from the '70's were absolutely magnificent though - and earlier ones were even better from what I understand- of course I could be wrong
Im just really interested to hear what the experts say- I've been wondering about bluing finishes as well
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S&W used a carbona blue (hot oven) process until late 1980 when the company switched to a liquid blue process. The different types of blue finish, namely, bright blue, standard blue, brush blue, etc. were achieved by the amount of polish given the metal prior to bluing. Your Model 29-2 was manufactured with a bright blue finish. Other revolver models offered with a bright blue finish were the Model 19, 27, and 57. The liquid blue process resulted in a slightly darker (blacker) color when compared to the blue produced by the carbona blue process.

Bill
 
S&W used a carbona blue (hot oven) process until late 1980 when the company switched to a liquid blue process. The different types of blue finish, namely, bright blue, standard blue, brush blue, etc. were achieved by the amount of polish given the metal prior to bluing. Your Model 29-2 was manufactured with a bright blue finish. Other revolver models offered with a bright blue finish were the Model 19, 27, and 57. The liquid blue process resulted in a slightly darker (blacker) color when compared to the blue produced by the carbona blue process.

Bill
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This is correct. I will also add that S&W changed their black oxide bath chemicals in 2000 to a more EPA friendly system, which produces a very black finish, but can turn a plum color when exposed to ammonia or solvents that contain ammonia.
 
S&W used a carbona blue (hot oven) process until late 1980 when the company switched to a liquid blue process. The different types of blue finish, namely, bright blue, standard blue, brush blue, etc. were achieved by the amount of polish given the metal prior to bluing. Your Model 29-2 was manufactured with a bright blue finish. Other revolver models offered with a bright blue finish were the Model 19, 27, and 57. The liquid blue process resulted in a slightly darker (blacker) color when compared to the blue produced by the carbona blue process.

Bill
I happen to have a blued 57-9 (I believe this to be a misstamp) that is VERY polished on the thumb latch side of the gun, and completely matte on the other side. The cylinder itself is bright as well. Any idea as to how this could happen? I know manufacturers where your gun will vary if it was made 8am on Monday or 5pm Saturday, but never seen this type of finish on a Smith. Will post pics
 
S&W used a carbona blue (hot oven) process until late 1980 when the company switched to a liquid blue process. The different types of blue finish, namely, bright blue, standard blue, brush blue, etc. were achieved by the amount of polish given the metal prior to bluing. Your Model 29-2 was manufactured with a bright blue finish. Other revolver models offered with a bright blue finish were the Model 19, 27, and 57. The liquid blue process resulted in a slightly darker (blacker) color when compared to the blue produced by the carbona blue process.

Bill
So, if I understand you correctly, all 1973 vintage Model 29-2 revolvers went through the same blueing process?
 
If you can't use ammonia based cleaners on the newest blue, what do you use? I've used Hoppe's #9 so long, I don't know anything else.
 
If you can't use ammonia based cleaners on the newest blue, what do you use? I've used Hoppe's #9 so long, I don't know anything else.
Breakfree CLP, I guess. Either that or just don't shoot them. Given some of the issues reported with newly made S&W revolvers, don't shoot them might be S&W's plan for finish longevity. :(
 
To me, it looks like something bad happened to the side plate. Maybe someone tried to clean it with steel wool?
I'd have to say I'm suspicious of that. The quality of the bluing itself is very high and consistent with what I've seen from Smith's more matte finishes. It's the entire side plate side of the frame, even under the grips.
 
It's not really an answer to your question, but rather an observation. I own an M&P from 1946, a Model 10 from '72, a Model 19 from '77, and a Model 586 from '80-something. They are all in beautiful condition and I'd be hard-pressed to point out any difference in the finishes.
 
The side plate looks "cloudy". I don't why it happens, but I have a couple of 44 Magnums with similar issues. I don't know of anything that can be done about it.

Bill
 
The side plate looks "cloudy". I don't why it happens, but I have a couple of 44 Magnums with similar issues. I don't know of anything that can be done about it.

Bill
What you and other's are perceiving as cloudiness is glare from the not so kind lights in our shop here. I'll have some better pictures this evening with the gun dry.
 
Did Smith & Wesson ever produce more than one type of blue finish? There was a recent online sale of a very nice (1973 production) Model 29-2 in a presentation case. The ad read "high polished blue finish". This revolver brought, what I thought to be a substantial premium, and I am trying to educate myself as to whether or not it was because of the finish.
Yes they have high buffed on their better revolvers model28 had a dull finish
57 19 27 25 29 etc all had a better finish
 
Here is a good example of original factory bluing on my Model 15-3 from 1974 and an example of Colts bluing on a 1956 Official Police. Have had both for about 10 years and did the Flitz and RenWax procedure after I got them. Beautiful old school bluing.
 

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