Smooth tool marks from apparent use of metal rod/screwdriver/chisel to clear squib?

[Nicksterdemus]

OK, maybe not a chisel, but I'm seeing gouges in this barrel that look like a combination of a rounded metal rod and a flat-blade screwdriver. Several marks that are scattered in a circular type pattern, about two inches from the end of a 1917 45 acp. They appear as if two separate "tools" were used that slipped off the stuck squib or perhaps was jammed against the bullet and the barrel wall, then struck w/hammer.
I ran a clean cotton t-shirt swab through that was tight enough I had to twist the material and a gouge snagged a teeny shred of material. I blew on the end of the barrel (insert joke here.) and it easily dislodged.
Is there a S&W tool that follows the rifling and cleans up or am I going to have to polish it out w/ball ammo?

It's been shot and semi-cleaned. I pulled most of the residue off w/clean cloth. This was mostly a shiny bore w/some junk towards the end. I pulled a clean cloth through w/string and nothing else.

 

[Nicksterdemus]

OK, maybe not a chisel, but I'm seeing gouges in this barrel that look like a combination of a rounded metal rod and a flat-blade screwdriver. Several marks that are scattered in a circular type pattern, about two inches from the end of a 1917 45 acp. They appear as if two separate "tools" were used that slipped off the stuck squib or perhaps was jammed against the bullet and the barrel wall, then struck w/hammer.
I ran a clean cotton t-shirt swab through that was tight enough I had to twist the material and a gouge snagged a teeny shred of material. I blew on the end of the barrel (insert joke here.) and it easily dislodged.
Is there a S&W tool that follows the rifling and cleans up or am I going to have to polish it out w/ball ammo?

It's been shot and semi-cleaned. I pulled most of the residue off w/clean cloth. This was mostly a shiny bore w/some junk towards the end. I pulled a clean cloth through w/string and nothing else.

 

[bountyhunter]

I think shooting FMJ ammo will smooth out the sharp edges, assuming it's minor. Sure is a shame monkeys get near guns with metal tools..... I carry a couple of hardwood dowels for knocking out squibs. Only used them a few times, but glad I had them.

I have never heard of any tools to "run" a bore with, especially since SW bores are EDM if I recall.

 

[john traveler]

If your M1917 .45 ACP is original WWI issue, the barrel steel will be pretty mild compared to later, say post WWII barrel steel.

Too bad that some knucklehead had to use inappropriate tools/force to clear a logdged bullet.

Your idea of using .45 ACP ball to smooth out the bore is okay, but it is gonna take a LOT of shots to make any noticeable difference. I once tried to "smooth out" a dimpled M1937 bore from where the importer stamped his importer marks a little too hard on the underside of the barrel. After a couple hundred rounds of mild steel jacket military ball, it started to disappear, and is barely visible.

A more viable solution is to lap it using a cast-in lead slug and the finest emery powder abrasive. It will require a bit of technique to avoid damaging the bore.

 

[Nicksterdemus]

Thanks for the advice. It's the only thing I can come up with for the marks. I guess he could've shot someone and instead of using a file figured he'd booger up the rifle marks w/two impliments of destruction. One sharp & one dull to be on the safe side.

 

[shovelwrench]

There is a barrel polishing kit available. It consists of abrasive impregnated bullets in different grits.

Brownells or Midway has em, I can't remember what they're called though.

 

[shovelwrench]

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=537442

 

[Nicksterdemus]

abrasive impregnated bullets

Who'd have thunk it?
I thought about a thin coat of rubbing compound until the picture of a blown barrel, going through me, went through my mind.
Second choice was armor piercing steel boolits.

You might be on to something...

.

 

[john traveler]

In my limited experience, the "fire polishing" kits are last-ditch items. I mean, seriously, who in their right mind would INTENTIONALLY fire abrasive coated slugs through a perfectly good bore? The abrasive action is not selective as in manual lapping. The abrasive grit also works on the chamber throats and forcing cone where you do not necessarily want it to be enlarged.

The fire polishing might have some utility in badly abused or already ruined rifle bores, but not otherwise.

 

[Nicksterdemus]

Dang it John, them was supposed to be magic boolits...

I'm right back to smoothin' it out w/ball ammo.
I reckon I'm gonna have to get to work shootin'...

 

[gaucho1]

If the gouges are really deep,and the damage is pretty close to the muzzel,you could have
a skilled machinist carfully counterbore
the barrel.The actual crown will then be recessed.
Somewhat an only if needed solution.

 

[shovelwrench]

Originally posted by john traveler:
In my limited experience, the "fire polishing" kits are last-ditch items. I mean, seriously, who in their right mind would INTENTIONALLY fire abrasive coated slugs through a perfectly good bore? The abrasive action is not selective as in manual lapping. The abrasive grit also works on the chamber throats and forcing cone where you do not necessarily want it to be enlarged.

The fire polishing might have some utility in badly abused or already ruined rifle bores, but not otherwise.

BS

Tubbs states removal of .0003, well within spec of any manufacturer. It should knock off the highs and take care of burrs and thats about it.

 

[Nicksterdemus]

I've yet to shoot the sidearm. The brl came w/rest of the sidearm, less the stocks, from the factory so I'd like to retain that integrity.

 

[n4zov]

Do the gouges or scratches affect accuracy or are they just a cosmetic problem? If they do not affect accuracy, I would not worry about them. The only way to find out is to fire some groups over a solid rest using quality ammunition and judge how the gun performs.