smoothing DA trigger pulls

kscardsfan

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Is there a preferred/recommended way to smooth up/lighten the DA pull on a smith K/L frame revolver? I am looking to eliminate as much of that "stacking" feeling as possible so I can pretty much just roll the trigger in DA for fast, accurate shots. My all time favorite DA trigger is the DAK trigger on the sig, if anyone has shot one and knows how to make a wheel gun feel that way I want to hear your reviews on it lol. Thanks guys.
 
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How light can you go without causing misfires etc? I've heard as low as 12-13lbs but I don't know if thats a good plan or not.
 
Do you want to lighten it or smooth it out or both.You won't get rid of the rough spots or any drag by just changing the rebound spring.You need to remove any burrs or high spots from the rebound,trigger,hammer and inside the frame.If you use federal primers in your reloads or use federal ammo you can go as light as 11 lbs on the rebound spring or beter yet get the Bang Corp spring pack and adjust to suit.


Ken
 
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The rebound spring has nothing to do with firing pin strikes. That would be the mainspring.
 
Polishing and deburring the rebound slide does wonders. Look for a copy of The Smith & Wesson Revolver - A Shop Manual, it has detailed instructions of what and what not to do. Combined with lighter rebound springs, the improvement is very noticable. I've performed the procedure on all but a couple of my revolvers, when the spring kits I ordered last night show up I will do them too. The ones I've done so far have worked with factory ammo and reloads using Winchester and CCI primers.
 
Wow, I can't believe what I just read! I am forced to use a Sig 229 DAK as a duty gun and if I had my way I'd throw it in the garbage and never look back. I can't believe anybody would compare a S&W revolver to anything SIG!

Anyway, there can be no doubt that most if not all S&W revolvers come from the factory heavily oversprung. I shorten the rebound spring (just a little at a time) and put a slight bend in the mainspring to get the pull weight I desire. I expect all my revolvers to fire all commercial primers, and for me the acid test is to be able to shoot two A hits on a fast disappearing USPSA target under match conditions, using the old plated Winchester or CCI primers. I don't know how to stone any of the parts in my revolvers without ruining them, but I never bother with that. I find I can significantly improve all my revolvers via simple spring modification, though a bit of trial and error will be necessary. Normal use or dry firing will eventually take care of the rest.

Dave Sinko
 
One thing to remember when "smoothing" the action is that you don't want absolutely smooth surfaces. The objective is to remove minor high spots and perhaps break sharp edges (not the sear interface, of course). This is especially true with MIM parts - the hardened surface layer appears to be very shallow, and not much metal can be removed without dire consequences. Luckily, MIM surfaces are much better from the factory than some of the old machined parts, so little has to be done to them.

Spring substitution is OK as long as you don't go too light for reliable ignition or proper trigger reset. Smooth is much more important than weight. I have a 625-10 that went back to the Performance Center for a Master Action Job. Most people that dry fire it think the trigger pull is about 6 pounds. It goes 12 pounds on the trigger pull gauge.

Buck
 
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got my india stone and rebound tool from midway today, so i will watch the videos a dozen more times, re-read the Shop manual and give it go. the mainspring switch already made the DA pull a bit lighter so i'll be interested in trying different rebound springs and some light polishing to see what happens.
 
Wow, I can't believe what I just read! I am forced to use a Sig 229 DAK as a duty gun and if I had my way I'd throw it in the garbage and never look back. I can't believe anybody would compare a S&W revolver to anything SIG!

This was in a 226 in .357 and you couldn't tell when it was going to let off, you just kept rolling it backwards until it went off. It was as truly a surprise release as I have ever fired. There was no way to flinch with this gun. We routinely rang an 8" steel plate at 50 yards with that gun without any kind of sight hold over. I do reload, but one of these guns will be used as my back up weapon for hog huting on my family land in LA, so depenable firing is worth way more to me then a target grade trigger pull lol.
 
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