Soaking solution that won't harm finish

wetdog1911

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I have a late 80's M41 that seems to be frozen up from dried gunk and long term storage.

The pistol was functioning fine when put away, but life happened and it sat, cased, in the safe, for at least 5 years and perhaps 7.

Now, the slide won't budge at all. It was put away with the hammer dropped and mag inserted. The mag dropped free after being a bit sticky when first removed.

My first step was going to be Kroil (after removing the grips), but apparently my kid found my hidey hole for the Kroil and the can is next to empty with just a few drops left.

Could really use some suggestions for what I could use as a soaking solution that will not mess with the finish. There are so many penetrating oils these days. I'll be getting some more Kroil and (if my kid hasn't found it), a decent amount of Ballistrol. But, finding something local would really beat ordering stuff.

Thanks for the help.

Wet
 
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I soak AR15 disassembled bolt, etc. in kerosene. Parts are, of course, the military-type matte finish. Never has any harm been done, but such a finish may be more durable than blue; I don't know for sure. I've never had a need to soak anything more than a couple of hours.

However, I've had a 41 for a long time. They have a nice finish. Before I'd soak my 41 in anything, I'd call S&W and speak with a tech guy rather than accept most Internet suggestions.
 
Something cheap to dunk soak a froze up gun in,,
Kerosene probably your best, least expensive bet to loosen and free it up with no damage.
Take the grips off.

Gasoline works well too but...
Gasoline may take WhiteLine outline detail off of sights. It can soften some plastics, so if there is a sight insert or plastic parts inside the gun,,I'd back off on that.
I've used it many times but the stuff I work on is usually made BP (before plastic).

Inexpensive 'Mineral Spirits' works well too.
The 'oderless' stuff is a bit more pleasent to be a round
Let the parts soak in it for a while,,agitate the stuff every once in a while.

If you have a compressor w/an air nozzle, use that to blast the openings and crevices of the gun every so often.
The loosened gunk will fly out of it along with some of the solvent so it's kind of messy. But it helps clear it of the stuff.
Then back into the solvent for more soaking till the parts start to move and can be disassembled.
Don't be tempted to force things with a mallet. A little help is OK if you see things starting to move,,but Very little or risk things breaking, bending or otherwise moving in directions not normally intended.
 
Cool beans!

Kerosene I have plenty of since I have several Aladdin "Blue Flame" heaters that I have used for years. They can also double as cookers in a power outage. Old school to be sure, but work well.

Might pick up some spirits for the soak though, since it does smell better.

Wet
 
I would wait and use Kroil when you get it. If you use kerosene I would mix it with some ATF.
 
K-1 Kerosene ....old school penetrating oil , gunsmith trick .
Will not hurt blue steel and a great soaking agent for rusty parts .

The best most aggressive penetrating oil is a 50 / 50 mix of Acetone and Automatic Transmission Fluid ( not synthetic ATF but regular), another old school trick . Wont hurt blue steel.... I wouldn't soak plastic parts in it .
Gary
 
I just acquired a very early Mk2 that had never been cleaned.
I disassembled it , put it in a heated sonic cleaner with some Dawn, 8 minutes later, it looked like new!
 
Plenty of good choices for soaking an all-metal firearm.
Kerosene.
Odorless or low odor mineral spirits.
WD-40.
A mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid, but the acetone might soften any paint, such as dots or outlines on sights.
Ultrasonic cleaner with a non-flammable cleaning solution.
 
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