speedloader rubbing grips on 642

bubba626

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i have a new all original 642 with factory grips,i have purchased a hks speed loader, it catches on the grips when trying to place shells, how do I cure this without mutalating my grips?
 
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I have the same problem with my 340PD...probably the same stock grips. Someone on this forum (can't remember who, or even in what thread I found it) was raving about the Hogue grips (see link below). I have wondered if these Hogue grips might work better with the speed loaders. Is anyone familiar with the compatibility of the Hogue Bantam grips (for j-frames) with speed loaders? I'm curious, too, how tough are these Hogue Bantams. I managed to tear the edge of my stock grips with my wedding ring while firing .357s off-handed (one-handed left-hand). (Yes, I know that I need to work on my off-hand firing, but, in my defense, the 340PD is a bear to shoot with .357s.)

Precision Molded Soft Rubber : Hogue Inc., The Best Value In Handgun Grips, Rifle Stocks and Accessories - Bar None!
 
Hogue grips will work...

But there are much prettier solutions.

Witness Patrick Grashorn's (Executioner) remedy.
 

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i also found that point shooting was a challenge with the rubbers that came on my 642. my solution was magnas. looks better, shoots better and reloads better imho.
 
bubba, my wife & I ran across the same problem. I use the 649 & my wife has the 638 which are also both J-Frames. We went through Hogue, Uncle Mikes.. etc really not liking either. Yes you can use the 5 shot speedloaders on them. But on our other guns we have the S&W Combat wood grips which feel better to each of us. They are a little beefier & seem to fit better - for us anyway. So we looked around over on the For Sale/Trade Forum here & found 2 sets of the S&W Grips. Like you mentioned - the speedloaders hung up. I took the left hand grip and put it on the end of my Sears Roebuck Belt Sander & rounded out the top. That made a perfect - scoop - so as to allow the speedloader to go right in the cylinder without hanging up. Then I took some #600 sandpaper & sanded the outside of the scooped out portion to blend in with the rest of the grip. Finally some #1200 sandpaper to smooth it out further. Did a slight staining & then put couple coats of Polyurethane over the entire 2 grip sides. We think it looks great. Just a suggestion. Heres a pic of my 649 scooped out.
Carl

DSC_1746SW1AA.jpg
 
thanks

after scooping/sanding it out have you noticted any discomfort while shooting? does the release hit your thumb upon recoil? i was concidering grooming on my stock grips.
 
Nope, we've had no problems with the Latch hitting against our thumbs. I shoot Left handed a lot, but change over to Right hand at times. My Thumb folds right onto the Scooped out portion. Wife shoots Right Handed & sometimes Both Handed. She;s had no problems either. We both like the S&W Combat grips - just us. Another member posted a similar question yesterday under the heading Older S&W J Frame Grips. I posted another pic of my wife's 638 there. You've gota be careful that you don't sand into the emblem on the front nor into the back of the emblem as well. Best of luck.
Carl :)
 
I have a K frame model 10 that was beat up really bad as far as finish, mechanically in great shape. I had the same problem with speedloaders so sanded the grip down also, works fine. Jim.
 
Having rather large hands, I switched the grip on my 642 from the stock grip to S&W Full Sized Grip, SKU 413040000. It's on the S&W website for around $27. It provides a much better grip for me and, as a bonus, it does not interfere with the HKS speedloader
 
Let me preface with the following: I just purchased my first revolver and only the other day finished my first range session with it. So, I am as j-frame rookie as one could be, 100 Remington 130 gr. cartridges in.

Being worried about the size of my 442 and speed-loaders, I have a couple of speed strips heading my way. Figured they are more concealable anyways.

I actually don't mind the factory grips. Though looking through some of these pictures, there are definitely some sharp-looking replacement options.

I've enjoyed the forum thus far and really love this little revolver.
 
I've got a 686P with the original black rubber grips and have an HKS 587-A speedloader. When I first tried it out it did hang up on the grip. Upon closer inspection, I noticed that there was a tapered end on the aluminum center shaft of the speedloader next to the little roll pin. That tapered end hit the cylinder locking pin and left the speedloader plastic body in a position where it interfered with the grip. So, I filed that extra 3/16" off the speedloader shaft and now it works much better. If you didn't know that the speedloader had the tapered shaft end you wouldn't be able to tell that it has been modified.

Just a thought...
 
if you try to rework any of the rubber grips you need to freeze them 1st. if you don't they'll look like a rat knawed on them. 2 days in the freezer and then you can grind them down with a dremel. Refreeze the grips and follow up with fine crocus cloth and they'lllook like they were made with your chosen modifications.
 
The two biggest problems with loaders seems to be either they hang up or they are too bulky for pocket carry....spped strips solve either problem while only adding a few extra seconds to reload...I find it hard to envision a scenario where I will be reloading my 5 shot on the street but I still carry the strip since it is so easy to drop in a watch pocket...
 
I'd just find an older set of Uncle Mikes Boot Grips & be done with it
They work perfectly with the speedloaders as Craig Spegel designed them to..
 
speed strips

where can I get speed strips?
I have only looked at 1 shop(didn't have them) so I haven't put much effort out yet.:rolleyes:
 
Just insert the bullet tips and let gravity do the rest. That way the speedloader does not jam into the grip.
 
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