THAWK66
US Veteran
Hey guys this product is amazing on stainless guns!
No more carbon rings!
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No more carbon rings!
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Stainless revolver struggle averted!
- Thread starter THAWK66
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lamarw
Member
Please tell me what it is. I can not enlarge your picture to be able to read the packaging. Thanks~
RIDE-RED 350r
Member
Birchwood Casey lead remover and polishing cloth. The packaging on mine says stainless or nickel only, not for use on blued weapons.
It makes complete removal of the blast rings around the chambers MUCH easier than conventional methods...well...except on my 460 after some spicy rounds.... That thing is in a category of stubborn blast rings all its own.
It makes complete removal of the blast rings around the chambers MUCH easier than conventional methods...well...except on my 460 after some spicy rounds.... That thing is in a category of stubborn blast rings all its own.
I'll have to try the Birchwood
I've got a lead removal cloth of some kind from the LGS that is about as effective as blowing air on the gun.
I've got a lead removal cloth of some kind from the LGS that is about as effective as blowing air on the gun.
Jayhawkhuntclub
Member
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It's good for removing powder residue, lead and blueing. 
Been using them for about 25 years now.
Been using them for about 25 years now.lamarw
Member
Thank You~
When it gets old and dirty, cut a patch out of it and use to clean barrel. Work great.
Pisgah
Member
This stuff is amazing, too -- and a whole lot cheaper.
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/61UXen5QEGL._SL1500_.jpg
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/61UXen5QEGL._SL1500_.jpg
Helderberg
US Veteran
Can it be used on the Airweights? I have heard that the alloy frames are coated and should only be cleaned with some cleaners. I have heard that even #9 is bad for the coating?
Thanks, Frank.
Thanks, Frank.
71firebird400
Member
It's good for removing powder residue, lead and blueing.
+1
Keep it away from your blued guns!
lhump1961
US Veteran
Yep...been using it for years. I only do the face of the cylinder and around the forcing cone with it...whatever you use it on will be polished perhaps more than you want as it is somewhat aggressive. No blue guns!!! I would hesitate on anything non-stainless. JMHO.
I also use the Birchwood Casey Lead away cleaning patches, which are cut to smaller size, in my barrel.
Stainless guns only, use sparingly, and they work great.
Stainless guns only, use sparingly, and they work great.
RIDE-RED 350r
Member
Good ol' Brasso! You know, I was wondering how Brasso might work.
Mothers Mag Polish works good too on the more stubborn 460 mag cylinder after some full house rounds have been sent down the pipe. The Birchwood Casey cloth gets most of it, but I have to get that last bit with Mothers. For every other "normal" caliber revolver I have, the Birchwood cloth does it with gusto.....
I've used this for some time now and if you clean the gun on a regular basis it makes it very easy. I remove the cylinder when I do mine which makes the job go faster. Or you can be lazy and give the gun a quick cleaning and leave the carbon rings alone since you'll get them again next time you shoot.
Brothernov
Member
This stuff's got wax in it right? I just started using Ren Wax at the suggestions of folks here, and I love it. Do the folks who are using BC finish it up with ren wax, or just leave it alone?
loeman
Member
Try Mother's Mag Polish. You can get it in about any auto parts store. However use a light hand as it is a mild abrasive. It will clean up the satin finish on your 649 in no time, but if you get aggressive it will make your gun very bright and shiny. A look that many here on the forum don't like on their stainless guns. I've seen pics of stainless guns here on the forum that have been heavily polished with Mother's and the final look approaches the look of a nickel finish.
I also like to clean my matte stainless 3rd gens from time to time with Mother's but always with a gentle hand. A lot of folks like Flitz too, but I have never tried it.
papajohn428
Member
I used to spend a lot of money of those Lead Remover cloths, they work well but they're pretty spendy. I took to dropping the cylinders in a jar of Hoppe's #9 for a day or two, then taking a brass or bronze-bristle brush to them. The burn rings come off pretty easily after a good soak.
RIDE-RED 350r
Member
I'm going to have to try that. Thanks for the tip!
460 rings are the most miserably stubborn friggen things I have ever attempted to clean off any firearm, bar none.
I'm going to have to try that. Thanks for the tip!
460 rings are the most miserably stubborn friggen things I have ever attempted to clean off any firearm, bar none.
If a pencil eraser won't work, try an ink eraser - they are a little more abrasive.
I've also used the worn Scotch-brite side of those yellow & green scrubby sponges that are used around kitchens & baths. Cut it into a small square; I keep it wet with either a solvent or oil & go slowly.
Be careful with nickel also. The cloth is abrasive. If you get too aggressive, you can rub through the finish. Don't ask me how I know.
loeman
Member
I tried this the day Pisgah posted. I just happened to have some in my cabinet. It IS amazing! It cleaned off the front of my 681 cylinder in no time and its never looked better, but like all abrasives one should use caution and always remember to not be too heavy handed.
Pisgah
Member
Every product mentioned so far, except the #9, is abrasive to some degree. They fall into the category of "micro-abrasives". There is little chance they will effect any measurable dimensional change in a gun (for instance, some fear "wallowing-out" chamber mouths, an event unlikely in the extreme), but they can and will remove bluing if applied with a great deal of vigor. Best to limit them to stainless guns or, on blued guns, at most a very light occasional use on the front of severely fouled cylinders.
After reading past Forum postings and calling S&W CS, I have another option for you. Hoppe's has an "Elite" product line that does not have ammonia in it, which is harmful to nickel finishes. I also believe that it is a water based cleaner. It comes in an 8 oz pump spray bottle:
Amazon.com: Hoppe's 8 Ounce Elite Gun Cleaner: Sports & Outdoors@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/412mKVNNo5L.@@AMEPARAM@@412mKVNNo5L
I use it for both my nickel and stainless steel firearms. Non abrasive, it usually easily begins to dissolve the carbon with no problems. Soft toothbrushes provide the needed additional "horsepower". I finish the jobs with Mother's Mag Wheel Polish (with a soft cloth and TLC) and mine are restored to the same condition after returning from the range that they were when I first brought them home from the LGS.
I'm not saying that the solutions from the other Forum members aren't effective - this is just another option for you.
Amazon.com: Hoppe's 8 Ounce Elite Gun Cleaner: Sports & Outdoors@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/412mKVNNo5L.@@AMEPARAM@@412mKVNNo5L
I use it for both my nickel and stainless steel firearms. Non abrasive, it usually easily begins to dissolve the carbon with no problems. Soft toothbrushes provide the needed additional "horsepower". I finish the jobs with Mother's Mag Wheel Polish (with a soft cloth and TLC) and mine are restored to the same condition after returning from the range that they were when I first brought them home from the LGS.
I'm not saying that the solutions from the other Forum members aren't effective - this is just another option for you.
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