Starline Nickel Plated Brass
- Thread starter jski3
- Start date
I have to snicker at the guys who demand "proof" or "data" as if those who offer personal experience have some ulterior and/or deceptive motive...
Here is what I have witnessed over 28+ years of metallic handgun loading. You will get no data and zero evidence. Disregard all of this post if it suits you.
If the brass is the same headstamp and from the same era, the nickel plated brass will not last as long as the non-nickel brass. You'll either get mouth splits with low pressure stuff or you'll get lengthwise splits in the body of the case in high-pressure rounds.
Which of each? Plenty of mouth splits in 17k psi .38 Special brass, and in my nickel, my most prevalent has been R-P nickel. Excellent brass and not even suggesting that nickel R-P won't last long... merely saying that non-nickel will last LONGER.
High pressure? ATK .327 Federal Magnum, 45k PSI. Federal and Speer, all came from the same place. Lengthwise splits in the body of the case in both nickel and brass, more prevalent in nickel.
The good part of nickel brass? Oh sure, lots of good and I like it. It does not get as dirty as brass does, and cleans up far easier. Can be easier to spot when scattered across your favorite range. Absolutely leans toward assisting all chambering and ejection, whether you are talking semi-auto or revolver, this brass is simply more slippery and the difference is easily detectable when working with any revolver where you do the work, it's not obvious in a pistol where the pistol does that work, but rest assured that the pistol is feeling less resistance in both directions.
If it's a common chambering (.38, .357) I'd probably choose nickel over brass but for sure, I'm not that picky and both are welcome.
If it's a scarce chambering (.32 Long, .327 Federal) and I need the longevity because I don't find the stuff anywhere and I even lose some of what I have... yes, make mine non-nickel because like most handloaders, I am frugal and I want my supply to last.
Feel free to completely disregard the experiences I have had & relayed here, but you'll be wasting breath to convince me that I haven't witnessed these things. Many, many, many times over many years.
Here is what I have witnessed over 28+ years of metallic handgun loading. You will get no data and zero evidence. Disregard all of this post if it suits you.
If the brass is the same headstamp and from the same era, the nickel plated brass will not last as long as the non-nickel brass. You'll either get mouth splits with low pressure stuff or you'll get lengthwise splits in the body of the case in high-pressure rounds.
Which of each? Plenty of mouth splits in 17k psi .38 Special brass, and in my nickel, my most prevalent has been R-P nickel. Excellent brass and not even suggesting that nickel R-P won't last long... merely saying that non-nickel will last LONGER.
High pressure? ATK .327 Federal Magnum, 45k PSI. Federal and Speer, all came from the same place. Lengthwise splits in the body of the case in both nickel and brass, more prevalent in nickel.
The good part of nickel brass? Oh sure, lots of good and I like it. It does not get as dirty as brass does, and cleans up far easier. Can be easier to spot when scattered across your favorite range. Absolutely leans toward assisting all chambering and ejection, whether you are talking semi-auto or revolver, this brass is simply more slippery and the difference is easily detectable when working with any revolver where you do the work, it's not obvious in a pistol where the pistol does that work, but rest assured that the pistol is feeling less resistance in both directions.
If it's a common chambering (.38, .357) I'd probably choose nickel over brass but for sure, I'm not that picky and both are welcome.
If it's a scarce chambering (.32 Long, .327 Federal) and I need the longevity because I don't find the stuff anywhere and I even lose some of what I have... yes, make mine non-nickel because like most handloaders, I am frugal and I want my supply to last.
Feel free to completely disregard the experiences I have had & relayed here, but you'll be wasting breath to convince me that I haven't witnessed these things. Many, many, many times over many years.
dave201
Member
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If you turn and lightly chamfer the case mouth, it seems to improve both brass and nickel. Annealing improves the life. Turn one and you can see all the bumps and grooves especially on once fired crimped brass. Hoppes is a good nickel remover on guns and brass, so stay clear.
Nickel plating pleases the eye, but seems to have more issues than its worth for a high volumn reloader
*************Note: This is NOT a Starline bash, please
These guys know brass and their quality reflects just that
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BruceM
Member
The difference is that back then the brass cases were electroplated. Current nickel cases are electroless nickel which seems to make the cases more brittle. I had 2 boxes of nickel RP brass which I got as factory loads in the late 1970's which I loaded until the yellow brass was bleeding thru the nickel and the primer pockets were so loose that you could almost reprime with your thumb. New cases are no longer like that.
Bruce
BUFF
SWCA Member, Absent Comrade
Having been reloading nickel plated brass since 1975 or so, I would have to see that myself to believe it. It just gets thinner with use.
I would not be at all surprised to find out Starline has a commercial industrial plater doing the plating for them. Probably a learning curve involved.
I have a couple thousand if you are volunteering. The few plated cases I come across anymore I pitch. I cant remember the last time I lost a brass case to a split.
I have some reloaded ammo with reload dates in the 80's and they are made up with nickel plated cases. I am finding that these tend to split upon firing in more than a few instances.
On the reloading bench, I have had several of my older plated cases split just in the process of belling the case mouth in prep for loading......my thoughts are stay with non-plated stuff and skip the issues. You will get much more firings with plain jane brass for sure.
On the reloading bench, I have had several of my older plated cases split just in the process of belling the case mouth in prep for loading......my thoughts are stay with non-plated stuff and skip the issues. You will get much more firings with plain jane brass for sure.
Since most dies these dies.....
Since most sizing dies these days are available and affordable in carbide, I don't think that's a problem unless, like me, you have some really old dies. I don't think the belling and crimping die put enough force on the cases to worry about.
Since most sizing dies these days are available and affordable in carbide, I don't think that's a problem unless, like me, you have some really old dies. I don't think the belling and crimping die put enough force on the cases to worry about.
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But it is.......
But it is harder, which works against any lubricity that nickel might have.
But it is harder, which works against any lubricity that nickel might have.
twodog max
Member
In my completely unproveable opinion after years of loading both plain brass and nickle brass I find plain brass easier to work with. I however never toss a case based on its being nickle. I just keep using them until they fail usually with neck splits. I know I have some 45ACP cases from the 50's that just keep on going. I do not buy nickle cases any longer because I do not personally see a benefit warranting the extra cost.
Over the years I think I see a lot of quality variation in brass quality from all manufacturers. Why I have no idea but it seems sometimes the annealing process is sloppy or maybe the bulk supplier of brass did not get the alloy correct. Just load and shoot and toss the bad ones or occassionally toss the bad batch after compaining to the supplier.
Over the years I think I see a lot of quality variation in brass quality from all manufacturers. Why I have no idea but it seems sometimes the annealing process is sloppy or maybe the bulk supplier of brass did not get the alloy correct. Just load and shoot and toss the bad ones or occassionally toss the bad batch after compaining to the supplier.
NJM15
Member
They Look good
A little easier to clean, less time in the tumbler, reload the same as brass. worth the extra cost ? I don't think so
A little easier to clean, less time in the tumbler, reload the same as brass. worth the extra cost ? I don't think so
OP
jski3
Member
Just got some Starline .357 nickel plated brass. Noticed that the plating is complete, not just the outside but inside the case as well ... i.e., 100% of the case surface.
Question: will this effect the way the case lengthens when shot repeatedly. Will it reduce this effect?
Question: will this effect the way the case lengthens when shot repeatedly. Will it reduce this effect?
I LOVE nickel brass from all manufacturers, always have. I have been loading nickel plated brass since the late 70s.
I do not care that nickel plated brass does not last as long a unplated brass. I have jars and bins of it waiting to be loaded and 5 gallon buckets of it waiting to be tumbled. Thanks to FAM I have a almost lifetime supply of nickel 357SIG
Nickel plated brass allows me EASY identification of my brass from most everyone else's brass on the range floor. That alone is worth it to me. I do not want to be picking up brass from someone's gunshow reloads.
I also think nickel plated brass looks better as loaded ammunition.
The only two calibers that I have in nickel from Starline are 45LC and 500 S&W Magnum. I have not seen any difference in Starline nickel performance or quality from anyone other brand.
I do not care that nickel plated brass does not last as long a unplated brass. I have jars and bins of it waiting to be loaded and 5 gallon buckets of it waiting to be tumbled. Thanks to FAM I have a almost lifetime supply of nickel 357SIG
Nickel plated brass allows me EASY identification of my brass from most everyone else's brass on the range floor. That alone is worth it to me. I do not want to be picking up brass from someone's gunshow reloads.
I also think nickel plated brass looks better as loaded ammunition.
The only two calibers that I have in nickel from Starline are 45LC and 500 S&W Magnum. I have not seen any difference in Starline nickel performance or quality from anyone other brand.
Walkingwolf
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Nickel cases serves two purposes for me. I can find the semi auto cases in the grass easier, and nickel cases do not tend to turn green in belt loops on revolver cartridges.
