Stock Refinishing

jmclfrsh

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I did a search here, and read that using Birchwood Casey Tru Oil will allow one to refinish revolver stocks to a near S&W factory finish from the 70s and 80s.

Has anyone tried it? If so, your thoughts? I’m looking for a glossy finish.

Or, is there anyone on here that does a great job refinishing OEM S&W stocks, much like Joe Cebull does a wonderful job refinishing the inside of presentation cases?
 
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Yes. Birchwood Casey TruOil Gunstock finish will duplicate the finish on S&W stocks from the 70's and 80's.

Checkering: Apply carefully and with a slightly stiffer brush. Apply sparingly (thin) to avoid thick build-up. 2 coats is usually sufficient.

Area outside the checkering: Apply 3-4 coats by rubbing on with clean cotton cloth.

Soaking the grips for a few hours in acetone followed by scrubbing with a toothbrush will remove the old finish. Allow the grips to completely dry and then minimal sanding with 240 -320 grit sand paper to sufficiently smooth the surface followed by a wipe down to get the dust off and you're ready for the Birchwood Casey TruOil application.
 

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^ That finish is exactly what I am looking for.

Excellent job!

I appreciate the detailed instructions. Now I know what I am doing Saturday. Two stocks.
 
There is a patch that you can add into your browser that allows you to see all blocked photobucket pic's. It's simple to do and free and quick.

True enough, but it only works if the OP of the photos didn't pull all their photos off of PB (like I did).
 
Tru Oil is great. I purchased a set of old Herrett's target in poor conditions. I sanded with very thin sandpaper and OOOO iron wool. Then a lot of work with TruOil
Best results are obtained after 20 or more infinitesimal layers of Tru Oil, alternate with smooth corrections with the steel wool.
 

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Checkering: Apply carefully and with a slightly stiffer brush. Apply sparingly (thin) to avoid thick build-up. 2 coats is usually sufficient.
I would recommend thinning the varnish with oderless mineral spirits (OMS), too, before applying the first coat to both the checkering and the rest of the stock.

Area outside the checkering: Apply 3-4 coats by rubbing on with clean cotton cloth.
I apply the first two coats with a 1000 grit sandpaper (not the checkering obviously), allow it to set for a half minute, then wipe down with clean cloth. For later coats, I use my gloved hand to rub the varnish into the stocks. I will do at least 5 coats. Each coat should cure for at least a day before the next coat. Some people buff the previous coat with fine steel wool or really high grit paper (4000) with a wipe down before the next coat.

There's a tung oil saying that applies: one coat a day for a week, then one coat a week for a month, then one coat a month for a year, then one coat a year for the rest of your life. I don't go that far, but I do like a final coat after a week's cure. Then I wait another week and apply paste wax.

Soaking the grips for a few hours in acetone followed by scrubbing with a toothbrush will remove the old finish.

I recommend avoiding acetone if at all possible. It is very tough on the wood. Use a stripper (I use citrus strip mostly). If there is oil soaked into the wood, you can first try soaking in OMS before acetone. Note that OMS will take a long time to dry out of the stock after soaking, like a few days. I normally heat the stocks up in the oven to ~ 140 degrees for a half an hour before starting on the first coat, to ensure that as much water as possible is removed from the stocks before the varnish seals the wood.

Allow the grips to completely dry and then minimal sanding with 240 -320 grit sand paper to sufficiently smooth the surface followed by a wipe down to get the dust off and you're ready for the Birchwood Casey TruOil application
Stress here the minimal part. The less sanding you can do, the better. If I can get away with it, I start with 400 grit paper, then go to 800 grit, then use 1000 grit with the first coat, wiping the slurry of varnish and dust into the grain, then wiping the excess off.

Attached is a pair of Ahrend k-frames and a unknown cheap pair I refinished (mustang?).
 

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I recently refinished these J-frame Combats on my Model 60-4 with Birchwood-Casey Tru-Oil after modifying the stocks to work with Safariland Comp I Speedloaders. :)
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On my rifle stocks I use tung oil. On outside hunting rifles I apply extra coats of tung oil.

Sometimes I try a small area and see if the tung oil will adhere over the orginal finish. I don’t like sanding. I use 0000 steelwool over all of the wood. If there’s and chips I make them flush with the finish. I restain the area if it’s bare wood. Then tung oil.
I repaired hunting rifle stocks that you can’t tell they been repaired.
 
Tru oil is good,and easy to use.But if you want factory 1970's look ,use Deft Lacquer finish. In the 1980's the factory used an epoxy finish like you see on hammer and other tool handles.Prior to these finishes, everything was oiled finished
 
I've refinished a bunch of stocks but I've not tried Tru Oil yet. I've had good success with Watco finish and stain from Lowes. I use acetone, steel wool and fine grit sand paper.
 
Tru Oil is great. One hint is to store the opened bottle upside down. It doesn't grow that "film" over the surface that way. Doing handgun stocks a small bottle will go a long way. Many "thin" coats are always better than one heavy coat. Apply with the finger tip, and rub out, then smooth off with the heal of your hand before letting hang and dry overnight. I normally do 7-10 coats, and "lightly" rub down with 0000 steel wool between coats. I will let dry 7 days before putting back in use.
 
I've refinished a bunch of stocks but I've not tried Tru Oil yet. I've had good success with Watco finish and stain from Lowes. I use acetone, steel wool and fine grit sand paper.
I prefer Waterlox's tung oil varnish (which Truoil and Watco finish are, too).
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I have done several Stock refinishes and have always use 100% Tung Oil. I do about 6 - 9 coats depending on the look I want and have never been disappointed!

I have only heard great things about Tru-oil but have yet to try it. Maybe I will the next time. :)
 
I did the top and bottom set with Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil. The middle set are as they came from S&W 40 years ago and they are in mint condition.

I did 5 coats on the smooth area and two light coats on the checkered portions with my fingertip and then spread with a toothbrush. Any that strayed from the checkered portion I just blended into the smooth portion with my fingertips.

I let them dry for a week, then waxed with Renaissance wax and put them back on the guns.
 

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