Storm Lake .357 SIG conversion Range Report

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On Monday I converted my trusty M&P 40 compact (1.0) to a .357 SIG with my Christmas present Storm Lake barrel, and took it to the range for its first workout. I shot 50 rounds each of American Eagle, Lawman, and SIG Sauer FMJ, as well as 50 rounds of Gold Dot HP. I shot 20 rounds of each brand at 15 and at 20 yards two-handed, and 10 rounds each at 15 yards with my strong hand. Result: the new barrel worked perfectly. When Storm Lake says it’s a drop-in conversion, they aren’t kidding. Even though I’ve shot over 13,000 .40 caliber rounds through my 40c, by the second magazine, I was shooting more accurately at 15 yards with the .357 SIGs than I typically do with the .40s. My long-time accuracy standard is the percentage of my shots I can place into a 4”x4” square. At 15 yards, my typical .40 cal. score is 65%. My first ten .357 shots were low, so I adjusted my aim, and I placed 52 of the remaining 70 15-yard rounds into the square, for a score of 74.5%. Am I happy with that result? You bet! At 20 yards my grouping opened up a bit (OK, a lot!) and my accuracy score fell to 45%, but it wasn’t too horrible, all things considered.

I noticed that the .357’s recoil was much stouter than with the .40, (and stouter than with my larger .357 SIG P320) but it didn’t bother me during two handed shooting. With one-handed shooting, it bothered me a lot! The combination of a powerful round and a small, relatively light gun took a huge toll on my accuracy. I didn’t even bother with the square, I just counted the shots that hit within a 6-inch circle. Only 18 out of 40 did, and many were four to six inches outside of the circle. With one hand, the 40c lurched dramatically low and left. Even when I aimed high and right, some of the shots went low and left anyway. I practice one-handed with all of my guns, which include two .45 acps, the P320 .357 SIG, and the .40, and I haven’t shot that poorly in a long time. Oh, well, just another good excuse for more range time.

Aside from one-handed accuracy, which is on me, the only glitch I experienced was five separate failures to fire with the SIG Sauer ammo. In each case, only a very shallow little dimple appeared on the primer, but the three I reloaded all fired. I kept two of the duds to show to the SIG people in case I encounter more FTFs. At first I thought I’d broken my striker using the higher-powered ammo. My striker is fairly low mileage with about 3,000 rounds on it, so I had to wonder if the 40c was really built to shoot .357 SIG ammo. Fortunately, at that point, I had enough ammo left to check. Following the FTFs, I shot 30 rounds of Gold Dots, and 10 rounds each of the other three brands without any problems. Inspection of this last group’s spent shells (including the SIG Sauers) showed deep, normal firing pin marks. My guess is that the FTFs were due to hard primers on the SIG Sauers. That surprises me because I’ve shot over 1,000 rounds of their ammo in various calibers, and it’s always worked perfectly until now. Obviously, I’ll have to investigate some more. But pinning down the source of those FTFs is another good excuse for more range time.

Getting back to the original purpose of this post, the bottom line is if you’re considering a drop-in barrel for your M&P semi-auto, I can definitely recommend Storm Lake. It looks like a winner.

However, for the time being, I will not make the conversion permanent until I've shot at least 1,000 problem-free .357 SIG rounds. And until I've used up most of my 900 remaining rounds of .40 cal. It looks like plenty o' shootin' ahead! I can live with that. :D

I’ll update this thread as necessary as I continue my 40c’s .357 SIG adventure.
 
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Thanks for the report. Ive never shot .357 Sig and was wondering about the recoil vs. 40. You kinda answered my question. I have a 5" M&P .40 that is just a "toy" and I was contemplating getting a Storm Lake .357 barrel and experimenting a little. I shoot some Buffalo Bore and Double Tap .40, some of these loads border on .357 mag and 10mm velocities and penetration so I was curious on how well .357 would perform in my 5" Pro.
 
Thanks for the report. Ive never shot .357 Sig and was wondering about the recoil vs. 40. You kinda answered my question. I have a 5" M&P .40 that is just a "toy" and I was contemplating getting a Storm Lake .357 barrel and experimenting a little. I shoot some Buffalo Bore and Double Tap .40, some of these loads border on .357 mag and 10mm velocities and penetration so I was curious on how well .357 would perform in my 5" Pro.

Because your 5" M&P is a heavier gun than mine, the difference in felt recoil as compared to a .40 should be less. My SIG P320 .357 SIG has a 3.9" barrel and a 13-round capacity magazine, and the subjective amount of recoil I feel with it is significantly less than with my 40c.
 
Any reason why you went with an aftermarket barrel versus a factory .357 SIG barrel?

From this forum, many, including myself have converted their M&P 1.0s from .40 to .357 SIG by running a factory barrel. I picked one up from Midway for $75 a few years ago and it has been flawless in my .40 slide.
 
Any reason why you went with an aftermarket barrel versus a factory .357 SIG barrel?

From this forum, many, including myself have converted their M&P 1.0s from .40 to .357 SIG by running a factory barrel. I picked one up from Midway for $75 a few years ago and it has been flawless in my .40 slide.

S&W stopped making them some time ago, so they're hard to find. New ones are non-existent as far as I know. Storm Lake barrels have received positive reviews on the Forum, so when my LGS got some in and priced them at a discount, I went for it.
 
So an easy way to tame that recoil is to shoot the 357 sig rounds through your 40S&W barrel. Just kidding of course but I'm embarrassed to say that I did it once . I got distracted during the caliber change over in my M&P40Pro. The action Cycled fine for the 3 rounds I shot before figuring it out but accuracy was horrible :-)

BTW, my 5" Storm Lake conversion works great. It shoots commercial 357 Sig and my (tamed) reloads just fine.
 
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I sort of went the other direction. My full size M&P is a .357 SIG. I eventually bought a 9mm barrel from Midway for $73 and a 9mm mag so I could shoot cheaper. Pleasantly surprised POI didn't change. I don't shoot the gun much but when I do it's nearly always with the 9mm barrel.
 
I have both the 40 and 357sig M&P. Even though the 357sig seems to be
a little stouter I’m more accurate with it. I just ordered a 9mm storm lake barrel for the 40 this week. I’m hoping the accuracy is as good as I’ve read.
 
Great to hear. I also got the Stormlake 357 Sig barrel for Christmas for my 1.0 but haven’t tried it yet. Heck I just got the 1.0 in 40 also, It hasn’t been to,the range but once. I was afraid Stormlake would discontinue the barrel also and wanted to get in on one.
 
Update: Second Round Results

I went back to the range Thursday for my second round of shooting with my 40c's new Storm Lake .357 SIG conversion barrel. My accuracy was about the same as the first session's, but I finally got an answer as to why I had the light strikes with the SIG Sauer rounds. After experiencing another failure to fire with the SIG Sauer ammo, I started pressing the back of the slide after each shot. What I found was that the slide was not fully returning to battery. By the second magazine, most shots resulted in an out of battery condition. All of the SIGs fired after I shoved the slide forward, so the hard primer condition I speculated about in my first post was not the cause. After 20 rounds, I set the SIGs aside and started to shoot Lawman ammo. All 90 Lawman rounds I shot fired perfectly, with no OOB events.

Combining the first and second range sessions, I have now shot 50 rounds of Gold Dot, 50 rounds of American Eagle, and 140 rounds of Lawman with zero problems. Only the SIG Sauer ammo has created problems, with about a dozen OOB events in the 70 rounds I have fired. So the question is, why? The SIGs are slightly more powerful than the Lawmans (SIG: 1356 fps/506 ft-lbs, Lawman: 1325 fps/487 ft-lbs). However, if extra power was causing the problem, that doesn't explain why the American Eagle rounds (1350 fps/506 ft-lbs) which are equal in power to SIGs, all worked perfectly. The Gold Dots are even more powerful (1375 fps/525 ft-lbs), and they all worked perfectly as well.

The obvious solution is to stop shooting SIG Sauer ammo. However, I've generally found it to be the most consistently accurate ammo I shoot, so I'd like to be able to continue using it. If anyone has any ideas as to why this is happening, please feel free to post. In the meantime, I'm going to continue to break in my new barrel, including shooting some more SIG Sauer ammo. I'll continue with the updates here as well.
 
I would take a micrometer to a handful of the unfired SIG ammo, and compare it to some of the rounds that are not giving you problems.

I would guess the SIG ammo is going to come up "larger" in a critical dimension such as OAL, case length, or width at the mouth. My guess would be the octave of the bullet is touching the rifling? I agree with you the perfect function of the other factory ammo rules out a problem with the gun itself.

Larry
 
I've shot a lot of the .357 Sig round in Glocks and my 2.0 Shield. Even use to hand-load the cartridge. If you want to have some fun look up how the .357 Sig round "headspaces". Case mouth? Case shoulder? Both?

I guessing the Sig ammo is out of spec for your barrel. To check just drop a fresh Sig round in your new barrel. Do the same with the other ammo that works. I'll bet you can see a difference. Also, when shooting the Sig cartridge always be aware of bullet setback. Attached pic shows rounds that would not even go into battery. Good luck.
 

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Perhaps a stiffer recoil spring is in order. A weak or broken recoil spring can be the cause of the slide not closing completely. A stiffer spring may also reduce felt recoil. Maybe Storm Lake could offer some advice with regard to the need to use a stiffer recoil spring when converting from .40 S&W to .357 SIG.

Did you notice a difference in how far cases were thrown when ejected as compared to how far the .40 cases are normally thrown?

I have a SIG P229 in .40 S&W that I also use with a .357 SIG barrel. From what I've been able to figure out, the color coded SIG P229 recoil springs are the same for .40 S&W and .357 SIG. I've not had any problems like the one you've described, but have also not fired more than one brand of .357 SIG ammo.

With regard to increased felt recoil, I've read a little about a Sprinco Recoil Reducer that might be of interest to you and that might have an effect on the problem you described.
 
Thought I would post in here for general info for you guys. O/P I'm not trying to jack your thread but I thought you might be interested.

I also bought the factory S&W .357 Sig barrel from Midway. I'm having nothing but trouble with .357 Sig in this gun. After about 3 mags I start getting a FTF that only requires a tap to the mag to dislodge the round from the mag and the slide will then chamber it fine. As I keep shooting more rounds the problem degrades into a full-on double feed.

What is happening is that the chamber is getting dirty and slowing down the slide velocity. Then as I keep shooting I get a failure to extract causing the double feed.

With a clean chamber it runs like a top for a few rounds. The extractor is in perfect working order, no wear, chips or breaks. No gunk built up in the claw part of it. The spring is seemingly putting good tension on it and with the .40 barrel in it all is right with the world.

I'm torn with ordering an APEX extractor and seeing what happens or just selling it and buying a Sig P320.

I talked to a buddy who is a LEO and is also his department's firearms instructor. They've been carrying Glock G31s for years now. He's never seen a G31 do this in all the thousands of rounds he's fired and seen fired.

The video below is the EXACT problem I'm having, however, on mine I can clean the chamber and a fired case will drop back in to full headspace like it should, unlike this guy's. But my failure is identical to this video once the chamber gets dirty enough which doesn't take long at all.

Needless to say I have removed this gun from any serious use which I'm very peeved about, because this .357Sig barrel is more accurate than any of my other M&Ps by a huge margin. I can easily pick off broken pieces of clay pigeons on the back berm at about 30 yards from the bench. None of my other M&Ps will do that on demand. This one will. :(

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iw6MDetS-dk&t=0s&list=WL&index=6[/ame]
 
Thought I would post in here for general info for you guys. O/P I'm not trying to jack your thread but I thought you might be interested.

OP here. Your post was interesting and not a thread jack at all. All issues related to M&P .357 SIG conversions are relevant. It's surprising that a factory barrel would have such problems. However, it may be the same problem that caused S&W to recall all of the .357 SIG M&Ps they sold to the North Carolina Highway Patrol a few years ago, and led to S&W abandoning the manufacture of .357 SIG M&Ps. In my case, failures to extract are not an issue. I've had none in the 300 rounds I've shot with the .357 SIG ammo, and only one(!) FTE in 13,200 rounds of .40 cal. I've shot with my 40c. The extractor is original and has never been serviced or repaired. Go figure.

As far as I know, S&W did not make a compact M&P in .357 SIG, so I've had to rely on an aftermarket conversion. Even if they did, I've never seen a factory compact barrel for sale. With my Storm Lake barrel, I have noticed some wear marks on the left side of the hood. It's possible that the friction caused by the wearing-in process has caused my out-of-battery events. But why only with SIG Sauer ammo? Measuring the extension of the four different rounds I've been shooting after dropping them into the chamber showed no obvious difference between them. (I used a ruler to measure, so now I may have to invest in a micrometer to get more precise.)

I am hoping that my problem will be simply resolved by additional break-in shooting. That's been placed on hold because Mrs. swsig had the misfortune of falling and suffering a small pelvic fracture, and I've had to stay home to take care of her for the past three weeks. Fortunately, she is making good progress, (the physical therapist has her up and walking with a cane as I type this) and I expect I'll be able to return to the range within the next two weeks. Stay tuned!
 
My conversion is a Glock 27. I also find better accuracy with the 357 than with the 40. I also have a 9mm barrel (unfired so far). The 357 barrel gives me 1" (=/-) at 7 & 10 yards.
 
OP here. Your post was interesting and not a thread jack at all. All issues related to M&P .357 SIG conversions are relevant. It's surprising that a factory barrel would have such problems. However, it may be the same problem that caused S&W to recall all of the .357 SIG M&Ps they sold to the North Carolina Highway Patrol a few years ago, and led to S&W abandoning the manufacture of .357 SIG M&Ps. In my case, failures to extract are not an issue. I've had none in the 300 rounds I've shot with the .357 SIG ammo, and only one(!) FTE in 13,200 rounds of .40 cal. I've shot with my 40c. The extractor is original and has never been serviced or repaired. Go figure.

As far as I know, S&W did not make a compact M&P in .357 SIG, so I've had to rely on an aftermarket conversion. Even if they did, I've never seen a factory compact barrel for sale. With my Storm Lake barrel, I have noticed some wear marks on the left side of the hood. It's possible that the friction caused by the wearing-in process has caused my out-of-battery events. But why only with SIG Sauer ammo? Measuring the extension of the four different rounds I've been shooting after dropping them into the chamber showed no obvious difference between them. (I used a ruler to measure, so now I may have to invest in a micrometer to get more precise.)

I am hoping that my problem will be simply resolved by additional break-in shooting. That's been placed on hold because Mrs. swsig had the misfortune of falling and suffering a small pelvic fracture, and I've had to stay home to take care of her for the past three weeks. Fortunately, she is making good progress, (the physical therapist has her up and walking with a cane as I type this) and I expect I'll be able to return to the range within the next two weeks. Stay tuned!

When I got it home and inspected it thoroughly I thought the same about this being the reason they discontinued them. I just can't find anything wrong. The barrel is very nicely machined and the extractor looks pristine. Perhaps a stronger extractor spring is in order. I don't know, but I'm not going to rely on it for carry use anymore.

As to your OOB problem? Have you chrono'd the ammo? It sounds as if maybe the Sig ammo may be weaker and not retracting the slide to full extension or not hard enough. That's how my problem starts. When my issue first starts, the slide will extract and eject, but I'm thinking it just barely clears the round in the mag enough for it to pop up a little to catch the slide and at this point there's not enough energy in the slide to strip the round from the mag. Or it may be stopped on the front of the mag, these mags don't allow much for for longer cartridge lengths, but with the Sig round I would think it would be clear of the front edge of the mag if it's high enough to stop the slide. Next time out I'll check that.

Hope the wife rehabs good. My wife had a similar problem awhile back. She now has a gamma nail in her femur. :(
 
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