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Target and hunting reloading recipe for .223 with 55 and 60 gr. bullets.
- Thread starter rtoney
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Huskerguy
Member
First, the disclaimer - I am no expert and compare all data to reliable sources.
I have a Winchester bolt that is my dog/coyote gun and load 55 grain bullets. Over time I have purchased multiple boxes anywhere from a 1,000 to 4,000 of various bullets. Most seem to group well but not all the same. So don't make my mistake - I am now going them one brand/style at a time, working up loads and then using them all up before moving onto the next. It will take me a while!
As for your question specifically - I find making sure you have a consistent length for your cases. This will effect seating depth of bullets later on. I use 26 grains of Varget for a variety of my 55 grainers and it seems to work well, fills the case for sure. It meters nicely. I also have a bunch of H335 I will be working on someday.
As for dies, I use both RCBS and Hornady and don't see much difference between them. Just take your time and check everything. It is a lot of powder in a small case so when it is up to the top you question yourself. I check on a regular and digital scale multiple times. Have fun
I have a Winchester bolt that is my dog/coyote gun and load 55 grain bullets. Over time I have purchased multiple boxes anywhere from a 1,000 to 4,000 of various bullets. Most seem to group well but not all the same. So don't make my mistake - I am now going them one brand/style at a time, working up loads and then using them all up before moving onto the next. It will take me a while!
As for your question specifically - I find making sure you have a consistent length for your cases. This will effect seating depth of bullets later on. I use 26 grains of Varget for a variety of my 55 grainers and it seems to work well, fills the case for sure. It meters nicely. I also have a bunch of H335 I will be working on someday.
As for dies, I use both RCBS and Hornady and don't see much difference between them. Just take your time and check everything. It is a lot of powder in a small case so when it is up to the top you question yourself. I check on a regular and digital scale multiple times. Have fun
Ivan the Butcher
Member
I love to reload, but when just starting out, there is a lot of expenssive equipment to buy. Buy some different premium ammos and see if they are what you want.
If all you are after is "Point & Click" ammo, buy a case of FMJ 55 grain.
The cost of a good reloading gear set will cost you 2 or 3 cases worth of ammo.
Cheap gear makes fair ammo (at best) but good ammo requires good equipment and good components. And that is a lot of out going cash before the first shot.
Ivan
If all you are after is "Point & Click" ammo, buy a case of FMJ 55 grain.
The cost of a good reloading gear set will cost you 2 or 3 cases worth of ammo.
Cheap gear makes fair ammo (at best) but good ammo requires good equipment and good components. And that is a lot of out going cash before the first shot.
Ivan
You don't specify your brass source or what you may be hunting. Does "target" mean paper punching or formal competition? Kinda hard to make recommendations. The Lyman data manual will give you much guidance to get started. That said:
Dies-hard to beat the Dillon 3 die set. You will, however, need to buy standard lock rings and a case gauge to set the headspace on the sizing die. If you already reload, read the directions for die adjustment as they're slightly different for Dillon seating dies. You do NOT need small base sizing dies. You should crimp your bullets, the feed cycle of the carbine is very violent. You don't/shouldn't use as much crimp on bullets without crimping cannelures. I broke down and bought a separate taper crimping die for that situation.
If using military brass you'll need a swaging system to remove the crimp on the primer pockets before reloading them the first time. It does help to have a separate decapping die as a lot of the effort of sizing military brass is removing primers.
Bullets-1-9 will handle up to the 75 gr Hornady boat tail match. NOT the A-Max.
Either 4198 will handle 55 gr bullets with no problems and very good accuracy. Beyond that weight, other powders will be a better choice. AR Comp is a good choice for that situation.
For some reason I can't "like" Ivan's post immediately above. Good advice and a source of used brass when you do start reloading. Do stay away from steel cased ammo & el cheapo ammo.
Dies-hard to beat the Dillon 3 die set. You will, however, need to buy standard lock rings and a case gauge to set the headspace on the sizing die. If you already reload, read the directions for die adjustment as they're slightly different for Dillon seating dies. You do NOT need small base sizing dies. You should crimp your bullets, the feed cycle of the carbine is very violent. You don't/shouldn't use as much crimp on bullets without crimping cannelures. I broke down and bought a separate taper crimping die for that situation.
If using military brass you'll need a swaging system to remove the crimp on the primer pockets before reloading them the first time. It does help to have a separate decapping die as a lot of the effort of sizing military brass is removing primers.
Bullets-1-9 will handle up to the 75 gr Hornady boat tail match. NOT the A-Max.
Either 4198 will handle 55 gr bullets with no problems and very good accuracy. Beyond that weight, other powders will be a better choice. AR Comp is a good choice for that situation.
For some reason I can't "like" Ivan's post immediately above. Good advice and a source of used brass when you do start reloading. Do stay away from steel cased ammo & el cheapo ammo.
Last edited:
4198.... 19gr
3031.... 21gr
Varget.. 25gr
Lymans 49th
RCBS small base dies for our semi-auto Colts and Rugers.
Lee Loader Zero Error Target dies.... hammer required.
For bolt and single shot rifles that need only neck sizing after first firing in that particular rifle.
3031.... 21gr
Varget.. 25gr
Lymans 49th
RCBS small base dies for our semi-auto Colts and Rugers.
Lee Loader Zero Error Target dies.... hammer required.
For bolt and single shot rifles that need only neck sizing after first firing in that particular rifle.
CCI #41 primer
25.1, repeat 25.1 grains Ramshot TAC
55 grain Hornady FMJ
Chronos around 3175 fps in the 20" rifle. Not match grade accuracy, but beats any kind of bulk .223 or 5.56, Q3131, M193, etc. Will shoot 1 inch 30 shot groups off a sandbag from a 6920 equipped with red dot.
25.1, repeat 25.1 grains Ramshot TAC
55 grain Hornady FMJ
Chronos around 3175 fps in the 20" rifle. Not match grade accuracy, but beats any kind of bulk .223 or 5.56, Q3131, M193, etc. Will shoot 1 inch 30 shot groups off a sandbag from a 6920 equipped with red dot.
CCI #41 primer
25.1, repeat 25.1 grains Ramshot TAC
55 grain Hornady FMJ
Chronos around 3175 fps in the 20" rifle. Not match grade accuracy, but beats any kind of bulk .223 or 5.56, Q3131, M193, etc. Will shoot 1 inch 30 shot groups off a sandbag from a 6920 equipped with red dot.
25.1, repeat 25.1 grains Ramshot TAC
55 grain Hornady FMJ
Chronos around 3175 fps in the 20" rifle. Not match grade accuracy, but beats any kind of bulk .223 or 5.56, Q3131, M193, etc. Will shoot 1 inch 30 shot groups off a sandbag from a 6920 equipped with red dot.
AManWearingAHat
Member
Do you own a reloading manual? I'd start there. No one can tell you what will shoot well in your barrel with your particular combination.
In your set up with bulk bullets in a factory barrel they're going to be rather insensitive to case prep. As long as you're within spec it will work fine and get you minute of paper plate and then some if that is all you're after. If you have the capability to remove primer pocket crimps, I recommend year and weight sorted Lake City brass. Its all I use in my match rifle and have no problem cleaning an SR target from the prone with my match load.
Dies, Lee or RCBS will get you started, but I've since ditched most of them for Redding dies and load for both my bolt guns and my AR's with it. For AR's I full length size with a small base die RCBS just to ensure function. They're expensive, but for production dies Redding's micrometer 3 die sets cannot be beat in rifle calibers.
In your set up with bulk bullets in a factory barrel they're going to be rather insensitive to case prep. As long as you're within spec it will work fine and get you minute of paper plate and then some if that is all you're after. If you have the capability to remove primer pocket crimps, I recommend year and weight sorted Lake City brass. Its all I use in my match rifle and have no problem cleaning an SR target from the prone with my match load.
Dies, Lee or RCBS will get you started, but I've since ditched most of them for Redding dies and load for both my bolt guns and my AR's with it. For AR's I full length size with a small base die RCBS just to ensure function. They're expensive, but for production dies Redding's micrometer 3 die sets cannot be beat in rifle calibers.
rtoney, you need to provide a bit more information about your planned uses. When you are suggesting target shooting, are you referring to: bullseye or steel? What are you considering hunting? At what distance are you looking to shoot?
When I was physically able to shoot NRA "across the course" matches , I used a 1:7 Colt HBAR and shot out to 600 yards. The general rule of thumb at that time was a 1:9 barrel was good to about 300 yards with up to a 72gr bullet. With bullets up to 80gr, a 1:8 or 1:7 twist was preferred, and would reach accurately to 600 yards.
Personally, I wouldn't want to stretch a 55gr bullet much beyond 300 yards. This is just me, but for hunting, I wouldn't consider using a 223 on any critter larger than a varmint (such as: groundhogs, prairie dogs, fox, or coyote).
I was weened on bullseye, so I can't really speak to the 223s capabilities on steel or mention a maximum distance for a 55gr bullet.
When I was physically able to shoot NRA "across the course" matches , I used a 1:7 Colt HBAR and shot out to 600 yards. The general rule of thumb at that time was a 1:9 barrel was good to about 300 yards with up to a 72gr bullet. With bullets up to 80gr, a 1:8 or 1:7 twist was preferred, and would reach accurately to 600 yards.
Personally, I wouldn't want to stretch a 55gr bullet much beyond 300 yards. This is just me, but for hunting, I wouldn't consider using a 223 on any critter larger than a varmint (such as: groundhogs, prairie dogs, fox, or coyote).
I was weened on bullseye, so I can't really speak to the 223s capabilities on steel or mention a maximum distance for a 55gr bullet.
If you try to take deer with a .22 bullet, please use a quality bullet that will dispatch the deer and not just wound it.
There are bullets made by Winchester, Nosler, Barnes and other companies that make bullets for deer hunting.
Back in the 60's I used the Nosler 60gr partition but they have much better bullets now and back then the .22 only had a 1:14 twist not the better 1:9 twist of today for much larger weight bullets.
Here are some that are on the light side, since I don't have a 1:9 twist barrel.
Good hunting.
There are bullets made by Winchester, Nosler, Barnes and other companies that make bullets for deer hunting.
Back in the 60's I used the Nosler 60gr partition but they have much better bullets now and back then the .22 only had a 1:14 twist not the better 1:9 twist of today for much larger weight bullets.
Here are some that are on the light side, since I don't have a 1:9 twist barrel.
Good hunting.
mmb617
Member
I have the same rifle and I'm pretty new to reloading but I can tell you what's worked for me.
With 55 grain FMJ bullets I load 22.8 grains of H335, which is a minimal load but I haven't had any problems with cycling or accuracy out to 100 yds which is as far as I've shot.
I have mostly Lee equipment except my swaging tool which is an RCBS, I trim all my cases to 1.75" and I crimp my bullets.
I have loaded for six AR-15 rifles and never needed a small base sizing die for any of them. I had a Sako bolt action rifle that did require a small base sizer, though, so one never knows, but i would not use one unless needed.
I prefer standard RCBS dies, and crimp as a final step with a Lee Factory Crimp die.
As for the actual load you want to use, get a few loading manuals including Lyman, Speer, and Sierra and you will be off to a good start.
I prefer standard RCBS dies, and crimp as a final step with a Lee Factory Crimp die.
As for the actual load you want to use, get a few loading manuals including Lyman, Speer, and Sierra and you will be off to a good start.
For an inexpensive bullet the Midway "Dogtown" 55 gr JHP will do well under 1 MOA @ 100 yds with Varget 26.5 gr.
Tamiami only had the RCBS small based dies in stock when I swapped some 1911 stocks for a Spartan press and took a hammer break. Ed at Revere was most helpful in the incubative years. 
Still use the Lee Zero Error kit.
Still use the Lee Zero Error kit.
sarg1c
US Veteran
Just remember, if loading to hunt, many states outlaw FMJ bullets while hunting. Could get expensive quickly....Not legal in Ky. I would not go into the woods with FMJ bullets with me.
sarg1c
US Veteran
Even if you have a reloading manual, go to various bullet MFG and powder co. website and down load their Info/charts and compile a good manual with this info . I did and use them more than store bought manuals...
2ndtimer
Member
My favorite bullets for AR's with at least a 1 in 9" twist barrel is the 62 gr Hornady BTHP offered exclusively by Mid-South Shooters Supply.
22 Caliber .224 Diameter 62 Grain BTHP With Cannelure 250 Count by Hornady
These are very effective hunting bullets, as well as being significantly more accurate than 55 gr FMJ bullets in 5 different AR's I have tested them in. I like Ramshot TAC powder, and 24.5 gr has been a nice accurate load that doesn't exceed .223 Rem. pressures.
I trim brass to 1.75", and use Lyman and Hornady dies. I have never seen a need for small base sizing dies in the 6 AR's and 2 bolt guns I currently load for. I suggest CCI-450, Remington 7 1/2, or Federal AR Match primers, especially if you plan to load 5.56 NATO pressures. If you do elect to go with 55 gr FMJ bullets (they are slightly cheaper than the Hornady 62 gr HPBT bullets from Mid-South), I prefer Hornady or the even cheaper Wolf brand. (Good luck finding either at the moment). I echo other posters in recommending published load manuals. They are full of helpful information, and also checking online data offered by powder and bullet manufacturers. I have collected over a dozen various loading manuals over the years by Speer, Nosler, Hornady, Lyman, Sierra, and Hodgdon. My favorites are Nosler and Sierra. It is nice to be able to cross reference data with various bullets. Handloading doesn't have to be super expensive, although if you really get into it, it can get there. Power case trimmers, liquid stainless steel pin tumblers, Dillon Progressive Presses, cartridge gauges, large and small primer go/no go gauges and chronographs can add a lot of enjoyment and precision, but also add up to significant investment. Good luck!
22 Caliber .224 Diameter 62 Grain BTHP With Cannelure 250 Count by Hornady
These are very effective hunting bullets, as well as being significantly more accurate than 55 gr FMJ bullets in 5 different AR's I have tested them in. I like Ramshot TAC powder, and 24.5 gr has been a nice accurate load that doesn't exceed .223 Rem. pressures.
I trim brass to 1.75", and use Lyman and Hornady dies. I have never seen a need for small base sizing dies in the 6 AR's and 2 bolt guns I currently load for. I suggest CCI-450, Remington 7 1/2, or Federal AR Match primers, especially if you plan to load 5.56 NATO pressures. If you do elect to go with 55 gr FMJ bullets (they are slightly cheaper than the Hornady 62 gr HPBT bullets from Mid-South), I prefer Hornady or the even cheaper Wolf brand. (Good luck finding either at the moment). I echo other posters in recommending published load manuals. They are full of helpful information, and also checking online data offered by powder and bullet manufacturers. I have collected over a dozen various loading manuals over the years by Speer, Nosler, Hornady, Lyman, Sierra, and Hodgdon. My favorites are Nosler and Sierra. It is nice to be able to cross reference data with various bullets. Handloading doesn't have to be super expensive, although if you really get into it, it can get there. Power case trimmers, liquid stainless steel pin tumblers, Dillon Progressive Presses, cartridge gauges, large and small primer go/no go gauges and chronographs can add a lot of enjoyment and precision, but also add up to significant investment. Good luck!
