Target still looks new

rilkil23

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So I took my model 637 to the range and managed to miss the target completely. What is the secret to this DA trigger? I am familiar with a variety of semi autos but this revolver has my number. I was not surprised by my poor results but I left determined to work through my miserable beginning. What is the correct way to shoot a DA revolver? I watch videos of people that make it look easy, so I have hope, but I was pathetic to put it nicely.

Some shots were high left and some were low right. I am a right handed shooter that is left eye dominant. Not afraid to admit I was jerking as the Buffalo Bore +P rounds I fired gouged my thumb pretty good.
 
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Bring it in closer and gain some confidence at a shorter distance. Did you try any at SA? If you can shoot a semi, you can shoot this. Same stuff: watch your breathing, dont jerk it, yada yada....

Skip the coffee prior to going to range.
 
Learning to shoot a snubby takes a lot of practice, especially for someone who has only shot semi-autos before. Several suggestions: 1) don't start off with heavy loads, leave the Buffalo Bore home, get some 158 grain lead or, even better, 148 grain wadcutters, standard pressure loads; 2) practice firing single action until you can control the gun and are consistently accurate with it (not a fast transition, may take a few months of practice ), then start slow, steady double action practice, concentrating on accuracy, not speed. After a lot of practice, you can start practicing with the heavy loads, another learning curve. It would be easier to start with a 4" barrel gun, but it can be done with a snub, just be patient and don't get discouraged.
 
310Pilot, thanks for the help. I am excited to learn and will take your suggestion of shooting lighter loads. I will try to go to the range this Sunday and run a hundred rounds through it. The trigger doesn't feel horrible I just don't have a feel for when it breaks, add the small grip and different position for weak hand and it feels like I have never fired any gun before. Can't wait to work on it as it is a nice little revolver.
 
The key to good DA revolver control is pulling the trigger smoothly and consistently straight back AND releasing the trigger smoothly and consistently straight forward, all while maintaining good sight alignment and never letting the trigger finger leave the trigger face.

A couple of things have helped me with this. First, as you pull the trigger visualize it coming straight back. I use the distal joint of my index finger. One problem with this method is that even though the joint is on the trigger, the shooter may be pulling the trigger with the finger tip, like a "come here" motion. Visualize the joint coming straight back.

Second, when you grip the gun, try visualizing front-to-back pressure in your shooting hand (and side-to-side pressure if you're shooting two-handed). Your grip should be firm but not to the point the gun starts shaking.

Spend some time practicing this while dry firing, at least 10-15 minutes/day for at least a week before your next range session.

When you go to the range, leave the Buffalo Bore ammo at home (at least for now). Get some light practice ammo (I like 130gr FMJ) and set the target close, maybe about 5 or 6 feet. Remember to control the trigger pull AND release. Once you can get groups you like either extend the distance a few feet farther or shoot a little faster (presuming that's allowed at your range). Don't forget to breathe. And don't shoot until you're exhausted. Stop when you start feeling some fatigue. I rarely shoot more than 50-75 rounds through my snub in a single range session.
 
Dryfiring is your friend. Here's what to do:

Check to be sure your gun is unloaded. Remove all ammo that might fit your gun from the room. Check to be sure your gun is unloaded. Check it again.

Now, pick a target -- a Post-It note stuck to the wall is good. Aim at the target. Dryfire while paying attention to two things:

1. Pull the trigger smoothly, straight through, in a quick, fluid "stroke". Do not jerk it; do not "stage" it. Smooth, fluid, quick stroke.

2. Concentrate on keeping your front sight on the target. Ignore everything else. Front sight on target! FRONT SIGHT ON TARGET -- all the way through the stroke.


Do this until tired. You will see improvement during the session. Take a break, then come back and do it again. You will see even more improvement. Repeat a couple of times a day until you go shooting again. By the time you get back to the range for live firing you will be amazed at your improvement.
 
model 637 airweight + Buffalo bore +P = whatareyounuts?

Buy a few boxes of wadcutters or 38 Special cowboy loads and
take all the other good advice and go shoot.

Heck,, even I could not shoot a 637 with +P loads well.


Goood Luck
Allen Frame
 
model 637 airweight + Buffalo bore +P = whatareyounuts?
Allen Frame

My thoughts exactly. Why would you start out with a new, unfamiliar, airweight revolver and try to get good at it with +P ammo? Get some standard pressure 158 gr or better yet some 148gr wadcutters and start there.:)
 
All the posts that say use light target loads are correct. Learn to control accuracy before attempting heavy loads. Once you start grouping on the target, this target analyzer may help you figure out any other problems.
B3TargetAnalysisChartCorrectRH.jpg
 
If I had been posting the first time I shot my 637 then my post on it would have been much the same. And I was using standard pressure loads of WWB. Follow all the advice given here and know that you aren't alone in this initial reaction.
 
Trigger and Grip

Let me underline the suggestion that the trigger must come back smoothly and without interuption. Do Not try to stage the trigger.
As for the grip - I see confirmed auto shooters trying to use the same grip on revolvers and getting wandering zeros. If you cannot cock the piece with the shooting hand thumb, you are too far around the grip. Try it with just the ball of the thumb on the backstrap. It feels all wrong to a 1911 person like me, but it took me from hopeless to competent in one session.
Now try the trigger finger position. It works best for me with the trigger right on the crease between the first and second joints, but try it on each side of the line and see what works best.
Slightly larger grips may help, but there is no need to go overboard. A grip adapter is usually plenty and doesn't compromise concealability.
Dry fire.
Dry fire.
Dry fire.

Good Luck,
Jim
 
ContinentalOp and Pisgah have great things to say on the mechanics of a trigger pull. I would add to Pisgah's dry-firing instruction about keeping the front sight on the target through the whole stroke only that if the front sight moves at all when the hammer drops -- that's where the bullet's going. Keep the front sight on target and don't let it move -- at all -- through the hammer drop.

I pull the trigger slowly in a set rhythm -- I say "momma mia" as I start pulling the trigger and the gun ordinarily goes off somewhere toward the end. I say it not to anticipate the bang but to slow me down and keep the pull smooth.
 
Don't fight the gun. Double action shooting should be fluid not rigid. Just relax and expect a little movement as you pull through.
 
Another suggestion is to look at the videos that Jerry Miculek has posted on YouTube. One of them covers the "crossed thumb" grip that he recomends and uses for the J frame revolvers. While it will feel odd when you first try it, and it would be a disaster to use with a semi, this grip allows you to use the thumb on your support hand to provide some additional pressure on the grip just exactly where it's needed when shooting a lightweight revolver with a grip that IMO is way to small for good accuracy.

BTW, if you don't know who Jerry Miculek is look him up on Google. IMO he's is the finest revolver shooter on the planet, past or present.
 
In addition to giving the most precise aiming system available for a snubbie revolver, as well as being the easiest way to add an adjustable sight to the little beasts, a Crimson Trace laser grip is also one of the most useful dry firing aids I've ever seen.

Get one for your gun (I bought the ultra-thin model 405 for its perceived concealment benefits, and have regretted not getting the fatter but much more shootable 305 ever since the first shot I fired with the skinny one), and install it. Do all the procedures to make sure the gun is unloaded, and then spend an evening (or ten) in your living room watching what happens to your point of impact as you operate the trigger.

You probably will be amazed (I would say dismayed, but don't want to discourage you ;) ) to see how much the gun wanders around throughout the trigger stroke, but you will be able to see what you need to correct. And you will also be able to see the improvements as you work through the process of refining your grip and trigger control.

I found a vendor on ebay that sold 'em for $211 last year. Prices seem to be up a bit since then, but these guys Crimson Trace - Buy online and save - AIG Outdoors Cheap Discount Gear seem to have 'em for $227. I believe CT has a standard policy of free batteries for life when you register a new grip with them - the grip uses a pair of standard 2032 flat cells that you can buy anywhere, but CT will send you one pair a year for life if you register a new grip with them.
 
Wow. Thank you so much for the suggestions. I realize shooting Buffalo Bore +P was an idiotic approach but I couldn't help myself. I shot a bunch of lighter loads and was having the same problem. Sunday I will give it a go with live rounds and plan on dry firing the weapon using the tips above. I am going to figure this out if it costs me 1000 rounds of ammo and numerous range fees as there is something really cool about the little revolvers. Thanks again everyone, I will do my best to put your suggestions in motion.
 
If the gun is making you bleed, you will develop an eternal flinch. I grind and polish the bottom edge of all my cylinder latches, whether they are the old or new style. Even if you still get whacked, the bruise is preferable to the bloodshed, which generally takes a week or more to heal properly.

I shoot my J Frames by grabbing the grip frame low and holding my pinkie tightly against the bottom of the grip frame. The thumb is curled down as tightly as possible and out of the way of that cylinder latch. You need to dry fire a lot to develop hand and finger strength.

When I first started shooting a J Frame I couldn't hit the target either. Many rounds and tens of thousands of dry fires later I can easily keep my DA hits on a man size vital zone at 25 yards, and my weak hand is almost as good as my strong hand. Most shooters lack the will to persevere and learn to shoot a J Frame well, but if you stick with it you can do it.

Dave Sinko
 
The 637 is an excellent personal defense handgun given certain conditions!


1. Large rubber grips are a must for beginners.


2. Standard pressure ammo only until the shooter is used to the recoil of the lightweight 637. That includes carry ammo too!


3. 1000 dry fires as soon as possible. This will smooth up the action quite a bit and make trigger control much easier.


4. The Apex spring kit is a good option if you are handy enough to install it or can afford to have a gunsmith install it. This will do wonders for trigger control (especially when combined with the 1000 dry fires).


5. Practice firing at distances less than seven yards. Anything beyond that will likely frustrate the beginning Airweight shooter.


6. Use silhouette targets at the range. Airweights are fighting guns, not target guns! Trying to shoot small bullseye groups with an Airweight is not the mission of this handgun (although you might find it most rewarding later on).


7. A good pocket holster is a must for your new 637. It's like peanut butter and jelly! They just go together so well.



I highly recommend that everyone have at least one Airweight. They are excellent guns for self defense if one is willing to invest the time and effort to master them.
 
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