The Humpbacks: Info and Help Requested

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I have a 642-1 Performance Center. I pocket carry it if I'm not carrying either my CS9 or 3914 or CS45. I really like it.

But...I'm really hankering for a humpback (I gave the one I had to my middle guy and he ain't give'in it back!). I want the SA option and they just look great.

But there seems to be a plethora of them offered by Smith: 49, 649, 38, 638, and the newer Bodyguards? that seem to come with a laser grip.

Can someone kinda sort all this out for me -- pros and cons of each model (if there are any) and if anyone has a sense of what a reasonable price is (I'm not looking for a collector piece with box and papers, just a decent shooter) that would be great. (They seem to range on the big auction site from $350 to $1050 and that kind of a spread just can't be right.

I know I don't really "need" another concealed hammer pistol, but I gots the urge figured someone might help here. (And yes, I'll be pouring over the Standard Catalog tomorrow if the Seahawks do poorly. And the Mariners.)
 
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For my money, the all stainless 649 is the best of the bunch. I'd love to find a clean -2 or -4 chambered for .38 Special. I currently have a 638 but I've also owned a pre-lock 649 .357 Magnum in years past.

Of all of the Chief's Specials and Centennials I've owned, I like the Bodyguard the best. IMHO, the polymer M&P Bodyguard is not a true Bodyguard like the others. It's a completely different revolver.
 
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You'll hear that the gun can be tied up by a dime or pocket fuzz falling behind the hammer. Pure nonsense, I carried a M38 as a backup to my service Model 15 for years absent a single problem
 
For the last 11 years my EDC is a 49 no dash. I carry Speer 135 gr Short Barrel +P. In my 30-year war with raccoons invading my house, my most difficult shot was a 20 yard straight up shot, between the fork of a limb and into the face of an adolescent that was a super nuisance. It was done with the 49. The ability to single action allowed a one shot destroy!

For a very short time I owned a 638. It had the IL and would self lock under the Speer's recoil. I owned less than 7 days.

Old Cop's comments about pocket fuzz, reminded me: I pocket carry with a DeSantis Nemesis. The lent accumulates enough to see in 4 or 5 weeks. So I surface clean it about that often. I pull the side plate yearly and deep clean. It has stuff inside but never an accumulation enough to hinder smooth standard operation.

Ivan
 
Young Man, The model 38 has been a excellent carry weapon in my front pocket for many years. Buffalo Bore ammo, pocket holster. The steel model 49 is a little on the heavy side for me. I have both. Would recommend a Uncle Mikes #3 with a belt rivet just below the trigger guard to keep the firearm going to deep into holster.
 
Had both the 638 and M38. I like the M38 but the frames crack under the barrel . The 638 is better for shooting a lot.

My 638 is only 5 years old, and its back at S&W for the second time. They are telling me its worn out and I shouldn't shoot it anymore. I doubt its had 500 rounds of mid-range wad cutters through it. That's all I've shot through it. It never saw a jacketed bullet or +P.

If they don't come through for me by replacing it I'll be buying a Charter Arms or Taurus. S&W won't get any more of my money.
 
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I've seen a few of the older J-frame Airweights with a cracked frame, and it's a problem, but I believe it's more an anomaly than a standard. If you go that route don't shoot high-power ammo.

For shooting and the potential for self defense I like steel. Feels substantial and comfortable. There's only about a half-pound difference, an almost unnoticeable weight with the right holster.

Thread needs photos. Here're my 1968 and 1982 Model 49s.

Best of luck with your choice.
 

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I own only one "J" frame revolver. As shown, a 649-2. IMO, the best design of the lot. With the Galco horsehide pocket holster, a terrific combination.
 

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I've seen a few of the older J-frame Airweights with a cracked frame, and it's a problem, but I believe it's more an anomaly than a standard. If you go that route don't shoot high-power ammo.

For shooting and the potential for self defense I like steel. Feels substantial and comfortable. There's only about a half-pound difference, an almost unnoticeable weight with the right holster.

Thread needs photos. Here're my 1968 and 1982 Model 49s.

Best of luck with your choice.

I can't remember ever seeing a Bodyguard with J frame target grips. A friend caries one with the banana grips. But the semi high horn grips look the best!
jcelect
 
It's important to understand what you'd be getting with each option you've listed.

This Tupperware thing Smith now calls the Bodyguard 38 is not a J frame. This Tupperware revolver uses an action not found in any other gun. It reliably jams. This is a design defect Smith won't fix. This is the last gun I'd rely on for self defense.

The M38 and M49 are the original Bodyguards. They are built on a svelte frame and are the best pocket pistols ever made IMHO. The M38 has an alloy frame, the M49 a steel frame. Neither has been made for years, so you're looking at used guns for these.

There has been concern that the alloy frame M38 is susceptible to the frame cracking . Some think this is a manufacturing issue. Smith has quietly been replacing the M38's with cracked frames when called upon to do so. Smith seems to recognize these cracked frames are due to over torquing during manufacture. I've never seen a cracked frame on a M38 and I have used them for over 40 years, although you'd think they all routinely crack based upon internet lore.

The M638 and M649 are, respectively, alloy and stainless steel frames. Unfortunately, they are built on the newer, larger and clunky frames and most come with the lock. The presence of the lock means it's built on the larger frame (so there's room for the lock). I find the larger frame defeats the benefits of the svelte frame used in the M38 and M49.

Many of these newer j frames (M638 and M649) are chambered in 357 magnum. This is silly. These guns are miserable devices loaded with 357 magnum: I've never met anyone who can manage them with magnum ammo.

If you peruse this forum, you'll find many folks trying to tame the 357's by asking for suggestions on finding bigger, softer grips to absorb the recoil. Of course, larger grips significantly defeat the purpose of a pocket pistol since they can't readily be pocket carried. If you get one of these 357 compatible guns, you'll end up using 38 special ammo pretty exclusively after you try 357 ammo in it.

I routinely pocket carry a M38. I use a Tyler T grip adapter with the factory magnas. I don't use a pocket holster: they add bulk without providing a benefit. Lint and other detritus won't collect and interfere with the action: this is another keyboard commando myth. Of course, when I pocket carry, the only things in that pocket are the gun and sometimes a handkerchief.
 
I had a M38 that cracked and S&W replaced it with a 638 that has the lock. My 38 did not have the pinned barrel but the one my brother has is pinned. His has seen more rounds than the one I had. The over torquing of the non pinned barrel makes sense to me. If you decide on a M38, go for one with the pin.
 
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FWIW I've carried an M38 from 1964 in a Renegade Cozy Pardner ankle rig for years. Even with an added Tyler T-Grip it's almost weightless and carries like a dream! My M49 is a bit less comfortable in the same configuration and carry mode though both work well. While the cracked frame on the M38 may not be wide spread, which I believe it isn't I do have another, like new early 60's model as a backup/replacement. I do love my little humpbacks!

P.S. Just wanted to add that IMHO the perfect Humpback would the a "3 M38 or M49. Not sure if both models were offered in a 3" but they are out there and it's one of the last ones on my bucket list to acquire.
 
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Regarding the number of cracked J frames, let me offer the following observation, FWIW. My department authorized 638 cracked in the usual place under the barrel about ten years ago. I had approximately 500 rounds through it, all factory. I submitted a correspondence through the chain of command requesting that all authorized J frame revolvers with aluminum or unobtainium frames be inspected for cracks. A departmental notice went out at that time advising same. In a department with about 1700 members at the time, there were approximately 170 authorized secondary weapons, estimated half of those J frames. Other than my J frame, 2(two) other frames were reported cracked. I'm sure there were officers that carried J frames without permission just as I'm sure there may possibly have been those that never inspected their revolvers either. This is just a snapshot into one period of time regarding cracked frames. For kicks, I would certainly like to see factory records for returned guns with cracked frames. I know that will never happen. I have had two...a model 12 and the mentioned 638. As I get older, I tend to prefer the all steel J frames as the lightweight frames do give out more punishment in practice than I want or need.
 
I like all the J-Frames. I sold my 49 and have kicked myself ever since. Any time I see one they get bid way to high for me. I'd love a 49 or 649. I guess I'll just keep waiting. I inherited a 638 so that will accompany my other J's until a 49 or 649 come along.
 

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Checked out an older M-38 with pinned barrel and no sign of a crack. Tending to think the idea behind the M-38 was to carry a lot shoot very little and when shot using standard pressure ammo or wadcutters. As mentioned ideal for pocket, ankle or shoulder holster carry either as primary or backup. As for the M-49 I'd be limiting it to standard pressure ammo. With factory magna stocks and Tyler T grip it's the perfect configuration for the intended purpose, concealment.
 

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