They are still out there..sometimes even affordable

mcb66

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Local shop had a couple of early model 10s. One was half price of the other. Both nickel, one had a beautiful finish, the other was yellow and dull. The dull had that yellow sheen indicative of old WD40. I brought home the cheaper one. It was in excellent mechanical condition. I've cleaned a few of these WD40 guns, so I knew what to do. 45 minutes at the bench and I have gun now in better shape than the more expensive one! A little bit elbow grease goes a long way! My guess is somewhere around 61 or 62 model 10-5. Super slick action, older Smiths are really hard to beat.
 

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I picked up this 1920 M&P 38 2 or 3 years ago at a local gun store. It was really dirty but functioned just fine. I picked it up for right at $350 and when I got it home it cleaned up much better than I thought. The nickel is probably 97-98% I'd estimate and it came with these pearl grips which are near perfect.

I keep my eyes open and see a few but usually they're way over priced and well worn but find a good one occasionally.

Not quite as old but found an unfired 1953 Colt Cobra 32 cal and did a swap that made both of us happy. I'm now looking for a vintage 32 with a longer barrel. I've grown to love 32.
 

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The Model 10-5 didn't come on the scene until 1962. Serial number C792532 probably shipped in 1964 or 1965. C765653 (a Model 10-4) shipped in August, 1965. C676419 (a Model 10-5) shipped in August, 1964.

Excellent info! Thanks.
 
Beautiful nickel on this one. I haven't come across a WD-40 sullied nickel S&W before. So how DO you remedy the yellowing situation?
Old WD40 is really tough to break down. In the past I have soaked them in WD40 (hair of the dog) for a day or so and washed them down alcohol or even ammonia. This time I used automatic transmission fluid, soaked for a 24 hrs (stocks removed) scrubbed it good and washed out with alcohol. Finished up with some Blue Magic metal polish (ran out of Flitz and this actually worked better). WD40 is the devil for firearms. I've bought them completely locked up gunsmith specials, degunked them and they operate perfectly. That yellow sheen tells the tale!
 
WD has been responsible for several "great buys" I have made over the years (mostly due to bound up internals). A good automotive varnish remover is effective for the internals, and a gentle round or two with Flitz for the external. I follow with a drop of Mobil 1 and a coat of Ren Wax respectively.
 
Back in the day, way back, I used to remove the grips and put my guns into gallon baggies then hose them down with WD-40. Then I'd wrap those up in newspaper and store them in a safe deposit box.
Yes, after a couple years they would gunk up but it preserved the guns just fine and it was never a problem to remove the "cosmoline".
 
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WD has been responsible for several "great buys" I have made over the years (mostly due to bound up internals). A good automotive varnish remover is effective for the internals, and a gentle round or two with Flitz for the external. I follow with a drop of Mobil 1 and a coat of Ren Wax respectively.

WD-40 has its uses, but firearms are not one of them. Nice clean up on a nickel plated victim of WD-40.
Luckily, I have never used WD-40 on one of my guns. I definitely didn't know, and wouldn't have thought, that it could actually be problematic to use on them!
Larry
 
Luckily, I have never used WD-40 on one of my guns. I definitely didn't know, and wouldn't have thought, that it could actually be problematic to use on them!
Larry
The issue with WD-40 is that when it's solvent evaporates, it leaves the "lubricant" as a gummy substance. WD-40 does some things well. It does penetrate and displaces water, hence the name "WD-40", indicating Water Displacing 40th formula. So it can be good for coating ferrous metals to prevent rust, but it will have to be removed in order for moving parts to move smoothly.
 
The Cobra I posted a photo of above was horribly gummed up. I don't think it been touched in 70 years and the cylinder would hardly rotate and the trigger was extremely stiff. I flooded the frame with gun scrubber by sticking the nozzle in every opening and spraying until it flooded out. I worked the trigger and flooded it again. I did that multiple times and worked the action. I then flooded it with Hoppy's #9 and worked the action then flushed with gun scrubber. I did this quite a few times then squirt CLP in and worked it some more. I flushed it again with gun scrubber then applied a modest application of CLP.

I thought I'd have to disassemble it initially but finally got it working like a new revolver.

I had to do similar with the M&P but it wasn't as gummed up.
 
I can thank WD-40 for this Python. I had just snagged a 2020 Python and wasn't in the market until I saw the price tag on this one at a police supply place. The guy said there was something wrong with it as he handed it to me. The cylinder was hard to open and would hardly turn by hand. I didn't even try the action. I said I'd take it and the deal was done. I grabbed a bottle of Remoil from a display next to the register and headed to the car. This was before the 3 day wait in CO.

A couple of drops later everything started working and by the time I got home it was as smooth as any Python made.
 

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I have a special place in my heart for a 4" pencil barrel 10-5. It was my first duty weapon. I began my LEO career on 7-1-69 and a 10-5 was my first carry weapon. We had to furnish our own back then and being that I was fresh out of the Navy and broke with no credit, I had to finance my 10-5 with a local finance company whose owner would not loan me the money until I showed him my brand new badge. I carried a borrowed U.S. Navy Victory until I could get a paycheck and set up the loan. The 10-5 was $85.00 OTD, brand new. I scrounged uniforms and leather items out of a locker at the PD. By the time I paid that revolver off at the end of 12 months it had cost me $170.00. After that if I wanted a new gun I had to sell or trade a gun to get it. Not quite that bad today. I graduated from the 10-5 to a model 19 and later a couple of .41 magnums. I've got the 19, 57, and 58. Even though I have a few M&P .38 specials I don't have that first one and have no idea where it is. I wish I still had it. It was probably at one time the most popular police sidearm around and it is still a very effective weapon.
 
WD 40's great stuff-----sometimes even for guns.

This particular gun was a Browning Auto 5, as new, in a fitted leather carrying case, residing in a 4th bedroom on the LOWER level of our fancy tri-level split level new home in Chicago-----having just moved from Philadelphia---and not knowing beans from apple butter about Chicagoland---AND not having been blessed with an honest, caring real estate agent---only one interested in their fat commission.

So here we are in Chicagoland---which is "lakeside property". That's a fancy name for property possessed of a HIGH water table on the one hand, and leaky sewers on the other hand.

Leaky sewers are so named because they leak. They leak out---AND IN!!

Then it rained-----A LOT! The high water table got even higher---high enough to present a hazard to the uninitiated living in fancy tri-level split level homes.

The other rooms on the lower level were a family room, a bathroom, and a "utility" room----with a floor drain.

So, it's o'dark thirty. It's raining---A LOT. It's been raining A LOT. A new, and mysterious sound is emanating from the lower level-----UMPAW---UMPAW----UMPAW. It turns out there sounds are coming from pumping stations associated with the sewer systems---which leak---out---and IN!!

Given the already high water table, and the rain, and the, leaky sewers, the sewers are overwhelmed by water leaking INTO them----and looking for a place to get out. Some of it, quite a bit of it actually, is getting out by way of the floor drain in our utility room----and the toilet----and the shower drain----all in the lower level of our fancy tri-level-split level new home----which is now, by the way, audibly connected to those pumping stations I mentioned----UMPAH----UMPAH----UMPAH---connected with a surge of "stuff" rising from the aforementioned lower level drains----which needless to say, are not draining---quite the opposite!

So---back to this shotgun. It's on the floor of this fourth bedroom. It's floating in its case-----up until the case was filled with water----and stuff---and sank.

Not too long after that, it was out in the garage, all taken apart (every piece), and being slathered with WD-40, which, true to its name, displaced ALL the water (and stuff)------and saved the day!! (Well, not the day, but for sure the shotgun!)

Ralph Tremaine

By the by, if any are in need of learning where not to live in Chicagoland, I can tell you.

By the by again, there are strange looking devices, WIDELY available in this particular area of Chicagoland, to be used to plug up toilet drains floor drains, and shower drains. We had some---AFTER the first time we needed them. They work fine!
 
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The issue with WD-40 is that when it's solvent evaporates, it leaves the "lubricant" as a gummy substance. WD-40 does some things well. It does penetrate and displaces water, hence the name "WD-40", indicating Water Displacing 40th formula. So it can be good for coating ferrous metals to prevent rust, but it will have to be removed in order for moving parts to move smoothly.

Don't look now but even the factory lube inside an S&W revolver will gunk up over time.
 
Don't look now but even the factory lube inside an S&W revolver will gunk up over time.

That is the point. There is no way to know what lubricant was used to lubricate these revolvers. Any of the old oils will dry over decades, leaving a waxy sticky residue. Good news is that the new synthetic oils have a much longer life in service.

I cannot believe that the yellow showing on nickel plated guns is WD-40, since it would wipe away with one swipe of a cloth with acetone. WD-40 is composed of Aliphatic Hydrocarbon 65-75% and Petroleum Base Oil less than 35%. Both are easily dissolved in the presence of solvents. Nickel plating gives off a slight yellow cast when freshly supplied and can oxidize over time given the right circumstances. If left long enough, without protection, nickel oxidation reduces the shine and brightness of nickel. Polishing compounds are best used to bring back the brightness.
 
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The dull had that yellow sheen indicative of old WD40.

:eek: Say its not true!!! :eek:
People actually use WD-40?????
Don't people get horse whipped for doing that??

I'd love to have been the one to clean up you beautiful M-10. :D
 
Once upon a time I heard about using a product called Mother's Mag Wheel Polish. Does that work safely on nickel finishes as well? IIRC, it was being touted for use on stainless, but amphibian memory being what it is, I'm not sure I recall.

Froggie
 
I saw a couple of sales on GB recently where a decent 4"K38 sold for $400 and an outdoorsman sold for under $500. Neither was a safe queen, but both well worth the $$
 

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