Thinking of reloading 357 what do I need?

[BabaBlueJay]

I was thinking and wanted to know if this is everything

a single stage press (either Hornady or Rock Chucker)

Brass (saving all I shoot for now)

Bullets (Hornady FTX or Silvertips)

Gunpowder (not sure what would be best)

Powder scale

Load handbook (not sure what's best leaning Hornady)

Primers (not sure large or small or brand)

A 357 dye (unsure on spelling)

Storage: was thinking MTM boxes or zip lock bags and an ammo can. Was thinking a plastic ammo can with water seal for brass with maybe a salt pack or gel to keep it dry) with MTM for finished rounds

I've heard some people have a cleaning item for brass to get it ready before loading but I'm unsure what that is.

Am I missing anything or does that sound about right?

 

[Model19man]

Something to clean the cases. Perhaps a Lyman or Hornady vibratory cleaner and a box of media for it.

 

[Model19man]

Turbo 1200 PRO Tumbler| Tumblers & Tumbler Kits

Something like this and media for it.

 

[robertrwalsh]

.357 uses small pistol primers. If you are going to be shooting rhino rollers you want magnum primers. If not, standard primers are just fine. A set of .357 reloading dies. Your storage ideas are just fine. The easiest "tumbling media" to deal with is either crushed walnut shell or corn cob. You can throw some polish in and it will polish as well as clean the brass. Powder depends a lot. If you are loading rhino rollers you wants something fairly slow, like maybe 296 or 2400. If you are loading something less intense some other powder will do better, like CFE-Pistol or Unique. Your loading manual will give you some good ideas. Also most of the powder makers have a web site that you can down load info from and get a lot of ideas about what you might want. HAVE FUN. Load carefully. Develop a procedure that works for you and stick with it. HAVE ONLY ONE TYPE OF POWDER ON THE BENCH AT A TIME. It is way too easy to get mixed up and end up mixing the powders. That is a bad thing and is pretty much impossible to correct once done.

 

[USBP SW]

You can go simple or very involved. You may want to look into the Rock chucker combo which includes most of what you need and RCBS has very good customer service. Some things that I consider important, included in the Rock Chucker combo, that you don't mention, are a powder measure and loading blocks, also I recommend a vibratory tumbler to clean your brass. I personally like the Lyman reloading manual because it uses a better variety of bullets and powders, others tend to give data on their bullets or powders. You want carbide dies, otherwise you need to lube the cases (more mess and more steps). Components have been a problem lately, small pistol primers/small pistol magnum primers, have been sporadically available and expensive. Powder has also been problematic and expensive, therefore, you may have to have some flexibility with powder and bullets. Once you get into loading, if you enjoy it and the independence of making your own ammo, you can move up to a progressive loader, ( Dillon is an excellent choice), you can also try hard cast lead bullets (cheaper and easier on the revolver). The reloading group is very enthusiastic and helpful to newcomers, I encourage you to get involved, I have been loading and casting bullets for more than sixty years and I heartily welcome you into the fold. If you have any additional questions I know that there are many here that will be eager to help.

 

[venomballistics]

if your willing to spend on an RCBS or Hornady ... look at some of the turret presses instead.

Bullets ..... coated cast is certainly worth your time.
Silvertips and the other uber premium projectiles are best kept to the "special collection" You won't know the difference on the range.
Case cleaning ... it's not necessary, but it is a nice addition to the tool kit ....
crushed walnut lizard litter and NU Finish is what I've used for many years in my vibratory cleaner ... I think even harbor freight has a few tumblers.

 

[mikerjf]

I bought carbide dies and have never cleaned brass other than a soak in a bucket.

Are you going to load 38 Special too? Same dies, a spacer washer can be helpful.

The Lyman Pistol and Revolver handbook (I have 3rd edition) is a good starter, and inexpensive.

ONE POWDER ON THE BENCH AT A TIME! A great rule!!!

Winchester 231 is a decent all-around powder you may be able to find. If you stumble over some Unique or 2400, both are good for 357.

 

[Green Frog]

BBj, do you have someone nearby who can mentor you? Reading is good, but for most of us the “monkey see, monkey do” makes learning faster. We’ve got a lot of members in Ohio and I bet they’ll be willing to help... most of us would enjoy the chance to work with you. If you lived near Central VA, I’d help you myself... and I probably have enough gear I’m not using to get you going.

Froggie

 

[tops]

I have loaded cases until they split and never cleaned them. Small pistol primers, cast lead bullets and what ever powder you want to use. Powder manufacture web site should give you powder amount. Scales (very important), carbide dies, press and loading block. Larry

 

[cd228]

+1 on a turret press. If you are loading 1 pistol caliber, you can set your dies up once and save a bunch of time. You can still take it nice and slow like a single stage press if you want.

Get 2-3 load manuals, I'm got lee, speer, lyman and Hodgdon on hand. I'd recommend finding out the powder company you can get in your area and get their specific manual (hodgdon covers several powder "makers"). Buy the manuals before you buy anything else!!!

A case gauge and/or Calipers, to make sure your brass isn't too long, Mre importantly to check Case Over all length. You don't want to seat the bullet too deep and create too much pressure.

For powder, I'd recommend some thing that measures well and is a little bulky. You don't want a powder that will allow a double charge if possible. That's hard advice to follow, but some of the other folks here can clarify.

For primers, as mentioned .357 is a small pistol primer, alot of loads for it will use a small pistol magnum primer. I've used winchester extensively in the past and I'm using federal champion primers now (due to availability).

Powder will vary based on availability and your desired load. read and compare your manuals, it'll help you pick. Once you think you know what you want, google it and see if there are any warnings about it out there. For example, if it's particularly dirty or if it's easy to double charge.

Bullets are similar to powder. You seem to be interested in JHPs, those can be expensive. Wad Cutters and semi wad cutters are great for target shooting and can be more affordable than JHPs and FMJs. I'm working with Speer and Hornady Semi Wad Cutters because they shoot well and can be used in a speed loader.

For DIEs, I recommend getting a set of carbide .357 dies from whichever company makes your press. I use lee and dillion, but there are a number of good die makers out there. The carbide reduces the need to lube the case.

I hope that helps.

 

[Mike in Reedley]

A current, up to date reloading manual. Read it and get your load data from it. Don’t go by what you read on the internet.

 

[.38SuperMan]

If you plan on shooting much I would recommend a progressive press like a Dillon Square Deal B. I can turn out pretty easily 300 rounds an hour on my Square Deal where it takes several hours to do the same in a single stage or turret. 40 years ago I inherited my dads RCBS Rock Chucker and was loading 45 acp on it for IPSC competition. It didn’t take long to get tired of the RC and on the advice of a competitor friend I bought my first Dillon. I wound up buying 2 square deals and after many years of use sold one to my brother and both of us are still using them.

I still use my Rock Chucker but dedicate it to rifle or niche calibers like 32 S&W Long, 44 cal, 38 S&W and 357 mag because I rarely shoot magnums and primarily shoot 38 special that I load on my Dillon.

If you only plan to load a few here or there then a single stage or turret is fine. More than a hundred rounds at a time, I use the Dillon.

Consider 38 special over 357 for range shooting. Most of us shoot 38’s for enjoyment and save our wrists and hands.

I use polymer coated lead bullets I buy in bulk or Berrys plated bullets in quantity. I look for sales on Berrys but like polymer coated just as well and they’re much cheaper. The only time I use jacketed are in my rifle when I’m pushing velocities beyond what plated and lead are designed for. Otherwise you’re spending money you can use other places and jacketed are harder on the barrel than plated or lead.

For hot loads, H110 and for moderate Accurate / Hodgdon Enforcer or CFE Pistol or HS6. Someone mentioned Unique which is a fine powder but you’re not going to be able to get it now. Alliant has stopped shipping to dealers so they can fulfill other contracts. Accurate, Winchester Western and Hodgdon are readily available and extremely good.

A brass tumbler, I have a Dillon I’ve had for nearly 40 years but rarely tumble my brass. I get very little carbon on my brass and if I do it’s a lubricant, graphite, and helps lubricate the case for sizing. If my brass is dirty range pickup then intumblebitbto get the dirt off.

You’ll need a scale. I’d recommend a good electronic scale. A beam scale is fine but slow to use. Electronic scales are just more convenient and easier to use.

Primers depend on the load and powder. In any case small primers are what you want. Hotter high pressure loads require magnum primers and some powders like Enforcer in moderate loads can use regular small pistol.

Consider 38 special if you’re just shooting for enjoyment.

 

[Greyman50]

Find someone you know that reloads. Ask if you can “ sit in” on a few loadings. A mentor is an excellent idea for a new guy starting out. Buy at least 3-4 manuals, read and reread each. A mentor can also help you decide what press and accessories you will need. A Good scale is required and a Good powder measure will make loading easier. Carbide dies are best IMHO and there are many vibratory cleaners available. Clean brass is much easier to inspect than cruddy brass. Go slow, ask questions and you will be fine.

 

[Yendor357]

If you want to get by cheap, this is on e-bay. You’ll never wear out a Rock Chucker.

 

[GypsmJim]

You are a novice. Many novices give up after awhile, so don't go right out and buy a $1500 Dillon setup. You need some basic tools, and even if you make this a lifetime hobby, they will serve you well for the rest of your life. I started reloading on a budget in 1971 and still use the same original equipment, with a lot of stuff added to it. MY suggestion:

* Lee Challenger Reloading Kit (includes all you need)
* Lee deluxe 4 die set in .38 spl (works for both 38 and 357)
* Starline brass (or use brass that you have already fired)
* Bullseye or Unique or HP38 powder (buy online or find locally)
* Two Lyman reloading manuals (The std one and the one specific for lead boolits) The Lee "KIT" will also have the Lee manual, which is an invaluable book for those just getting started.
* 158 grain SWC bullets - start with powder coated (again online or get locally)

Midsouth Shooter Supply and Natchezz are my personal go-tos for online purchases, but there are others out there as well.

My first effort at reloading was a set of 8mm Lee dies for a Mauser that I inherited. A year later I bought a .357 Revolver and added a set of Lee .38 Spl dies to my repertoire. Those same dies are still in use after reloading literally thousands of rounds over the last 52 years.

Today, I DON'T buy factory ammo. If I need more brass I buy "once fired" from MSSS and they meet all my requirements.

 

[LoboGunLeather]

I've been loading .357 magnum for about 50 years. What do you need?

1. Single-stage press is fine. Can be purchased in used condition for 1/3 or less of retail cost. RCBS, Lyman, pretty much all good for a lifetime.
2. Dies. 3 or 4 die set for sizing, case mouth expansion, bullet seating, crimping. Carbide sizer is nice to have, usually no lube required so less clean-up at the far end of the cycle. Bullet seating stems for the various bullet types (wadcutter, SWC, round nose, etc); using the correct stem for the bullet in use avoids distortion during the stress of seating.
3. Powder scale. Most are capable of weighing powder charges to 1/10th grain (437.5 grains per ounce, 7000 grains per pound).
4. Powder measure. Meters powder by volume, speeding up the process considerably. I recommend checking every 10th charge on the scale to maintain settings accurately (volume can change as the powder reservoir is drained of content, reducing the effects of gravity in the dropping process).
5. Cases. All known .357 magnum cases utilize small pistol primers. Little or no benefits of using magnum primers unless you are loading high-volume charges of very slow-burning powders.
6. Case cleaning (usually optional, but helpful if using range pick-ups). Plastic buckets, one filled with hot water and dish soap to soak overnight, another to rinse away the soap and crud. Then allow cases to dry thoroughly before processing.
7. Cartridge boxes or storage bags. Zip-lock storage bags work just fine. No need to overthink the small stuff.
8. Ammo storage space. Indoor, controlled temperatures and humidity, out of sunlight, and your ammo will last indefinitely.
9. Clean habits. Wash your hands before and after every step of the process. Keep the workplace clean and tidy.
10. No distractions. TV, kids yelling, spouse ripping you about something, you don't need any of this while concentrating on what you are doing.

My life-long favorite .357 loads:

1. For practice and range use, 158-grain hard-cast lead SWC with 6.5 grains Unique. Accurate and manageable in any medium or large-frame revolver.
2. For hunting or defensive use, 158 hard-cast SWC or 150 cast SWC-HP with 7.0 grains Unique. About 6-8% or so below book maximums. Very accurate. Deadly on Colorado mule deer within 50 yards.

Both of these are easy on the gun and the shooter, but proven effective for decades of use.

I recommend the Lyman Handloading Manual, large selection of loads including cast and jacketed, all with lab-tested pressures and velocities. Also a great step-by-step instructional section and trouble-shooting advice.

Have fun.

 

[smoothshooter]

First off, buy a loading manual. And READ IT. ALL OF IT EFORE YOU EVEN START TRYING TO LOAD ANYTHING.
Lyman prints one of the best.
Good idea to have two different manuals. The second one should be one other than Lyman’s.
The tumbler is not a high priority when starting out. Nice to have, but not absolutely necessary. I got by for 20 years without one just fine.
For loading pistol cartridges, buy only carbide dies. Don’t let anyone talk you into anything different.
Do not engage in conversation with anyone while you are loading.
If that is unavoidable for some reason, stop loading.Back away from the bench. There is a danger when starting back up of losing track of which case you were in the process of priming or charging with powder. Take the time to collect your thoughts again and backtrack a little to remember exactly what you were doing when the interruption occurred
Do not risk double charging a case. .

 

[AlHunt]

First off, buy a loading manual. And READ IT. ALL OF IT BEFORE YOU EVEN START TRYING TO LOAD ANYTHING.

Above is worth repeating.

You've got a lot of good, detailed advice here, even the stuff that conflicts and the little bit I disagree with is good advice.

I would just say, start with one of the kits, RCBS if it's in the budget, but not a thing wrong with LEE, if you want to go total econo to get your feet wet. The extra bucks for a turret isn't a bad idea.

A power measure is an excellent idea, along with a scale. It'll speed you up considerably. The RCBS unit is as good as any.

I'm in the "Don't start with a progressive" camp. Dillon always seemed like a needlessly expensive rabbit hole, but obviously many disagree.

Powders, the last decade or so I've largely settled into the Accurate line of "AA" powders. AA2, AA5, AA7 and AA9 cover pretty much every handgun cartridge out there. Bonus round, it meters very well (back to the powder measure). There are others I'd prefer but availability has sucked and driven me to the AAs.

And, of course, read your manual(s) cover to cover - well, the instruction sections.

Oh, and look into casting your own bullets if reloading turns out to be something you keep doing.

Welcome to the rabbit hole!

 

[IAM Rand]

K.I.S.S.

Look on Ebay for used stuff. I have ordered several die sets on there with no issue. Starting out I would go cheap. Used is fine. Ebay will have everything you need except powder and primers. See if you like it first, there will be time later to go crazy when you see if it will work for you. No point in spending $500-$1k on reloading with a turret and all the fancy equipment when it turns out that you would rather just buy than reload. Also, don't shortchange 38 Specials. A little cheaper and shoots just as well. No need for a vibrating cleaner. Look for a good used rock tumbler and corn cob or walnut to clean the cases. That would be my last purchase. I have shot many rounds of everything without tumbling or cleaning. I only started when I inherited by father's tumbler.


Watch Youtube videos and get a reloading book, Lyman is usually the best for noobies. Google and people here are also great resources.

 

[6GUNSONLY]

I second the purchase of the Lyman manual as a first step. Read it thoroughly and get familiar with the process of handloading ammo before you buy the first piece of equipment. You don't need a progressive loader as a first setup - you need to understand the process on a step by step basis first, which a single stage press excels at. You don't need a case tumbler to get started. Nice but not necessary. I manged for half of my 50 years at the bench without one. Cleaned cases with alcohol on an old rag if they really needed it. Lead bullets are half the cost of jacketed and work great. They're 95% of all I shoot in pistol ammo. Look at Accurate Arms powders. Availability has been good, sometimes a little cheaper than others, and they have several suitable for most .38/.357 loads, including numbers 5, 7, & 9. All work fine with standard small pistol primers.