Timney trigger?

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Good morning everyone.

I'm a new M&P 15-22 owner, and very happy so far. I got a chance to shoot it over the weekend and it is a lot of fun!

At this point I'd like to start customizing it, I am wondering if there is a Timney trigger for it?

I plan on doing up Magpul stock, grip, rail covers, and flip up sights. I am going to order up a different charging handle too.

I am really leaning towards the Foliage Green, I like the OD green, but its just a little to green. The desert tan looks great, but I'm about as far away from a desert as possible.. If you would like to post a pic of your set up I'd enjoy looking at them.

Thank you!
 
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Yes. Any AR-15 trigger group will fit in the 15-22, with the possible exception of a full auto one.

The Timney IIRC has an issue with a set screw that can damage the polymer frame and either needs a metal insert or different trigger pins to secure it properly.

KBK
 
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1358784602.595392.jpg
Ya be careful. There is metal shims that you'd need for this not to happen. I just went with the anti-walk pins as they're way easier to get out IMO than trying to get by the spring legs to tighten these lil set screws. Depending on what you're needing, there really might be more cost-effective triggers out there, but that being said I love it. It's great that the 15-22 takes a mil-spec trigger so if you have a .223/5.56 you can use this Timney in either like stated above.
 
A Trigger is a very personal item.
Most folks find the original just fine, some like a lighter trigger pull and that can be accomplished with a spring that's very inexpensive.
If you are looking for accuracy, a well made two stage might suit you.
If you are looking for a faster second shot mainly used in competitions where you dont want to move your trigger much for a second shot, Thats called a fast reset.
You can find these available in the single action dept.They break with a very light pull and reset quickly, meaning you dont have much trigger pull and you dont have to relax your finger much for a fast second shot.
I bought the Geissele 3 gun trigger and am very happy with it. Its built off a two stage but sort of acts like a single stage. Hard to describe the action itself. It has slight movement of the trigger before it breaks as compared to a single stage, but has a fast reset.
G calls it a hybrid and I can see why.
All I know is that it fits my style of speed shooting at tactical matches which is what I use my 15-22 for.
Hope this helps, It probably wont. Do your self a favor and google Ar triggers and ask questions.
Cause they are not cheap.
 
Now matter what trigger anyone uses, it can be made smoother and break with less force if you use a moly lube on all its contact surfaces.
This lube is available at most auto parts stores and all it takes it a lil dab where you need it and will stay in place if you use a spray cleaner to clean your trigger assy, mostly stay inplace anyways.
 
Ya be careful. There is metal shims that you'd need for this not to happen. I just went with the anti-walk pins as they're way easier to get out IMO than trying to get by the spring legs to tighten these lil set screws.

Does using the anti-walk pins remove the need for using shims, or do you need both?
 
Does using the anti-walk pins remove the need for using shims, or do you need both?

No it's one or the other. Use the anti-walks in my opinion, easier all around in the long run. Plus you can use the anti-walks in a different build later on, shims are single purpose.
 
Lots of thing are; just don't eat them. :)

Lead's toxic, too. Maybe we should stop shooting lead bullets.

Surprisingly I don't often throw small particle lead into the air of my house, something that can be done with moly and air pressure cleaning.

When aerosol-ed lead is in the air I'm either out doors or I make sure the indoor range has industrial sized extractors running.

Also, I wear gloves when handling lead for reloading, and I wash my hands after using it if I don't. Just make sure you DO wash properly after using moly, because it IS toxic. Use it, don't use it.

KBK
 
Surprisingly I don't often throw small particle lead into the air of my house, something that can be done with moly and air pressure cleaning.

When aerosol-ed lead is in the air I'm either out doors or I make sure the indoor range has industrial sized extractors running.

Also, I wear gloves when handling lead for reloading, and I wash my hands after using it if I don't. Just make sure you DO wash properly after using moly, because it IS toxic. Use it, don't use it.

KBK

You are over reacting about it. The small amount that would be used for a trigger in the weapons lifetime wouldn't phase a field mouse.

I have been using it on Abrams tanks and my dads fleet of tow trucks all my life. Besides, I don't knows my that use compressed air and blow the crud from a weapon into their face, and moly is pretty heavy so it will just stick to something in a glob.

Just use your head and you will be fine.
 
Didnt mean to turn this thread into a toxic subject? Ha!
But, if your worried about Moly lube,you can use an engine assembly lube thats made to eliminate metal to metal contact very similar to moly.
I use this MPZ Engine assembly lube also. Its a thick sticky liquid you could apply to contact surfaces with a Q-tip.Moly is better, but this will work also.
I actually use this mixed with some Mobil one motor oil to use on all the sliding surfaces of the 15-22 and the rails of my 1911.Its very slick but does not spray or run off. Yes, Im in the automobile industry.
Hope all this helps, this was just a public service announcement.
Carry on, nothing to see here.
 
Lets get back to triggers,I almost bought the Wilson single stage when it came on sale just before Christmas. They were offering it at $210 instead of the retail $280, but then I would had to buy the pins also since a modular unit.
Anyone have one of these and how do you like it?
 
Just use your head and you will be fine.

And that is just what my post was about. Take into consideration that moly IS toxic and take precautionary steps.

Also, there are other lubes that aren't toxic. Take that into consideration when shopping.

I never said don't use it, I just said be cognizant of it.

KBK
 
No it's one or the other. Use the anti-walks in my opinion, easier all around in the long run. Plus you can use the anti-walks in a different build later on, shims are single purpose.

So what is it about the trigger that causes the damage to the frame without the shims or anti-walk pins? I can see how shims would whatever the issue is by reinforcing the frame, but how do the pins stop the same damage?
 
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1358971534.779490.jpg

It uses these two set screws that push down toward the trigger so it creates higher friction for the trigger pins. Well like the picture earlier posted, the poly gives too much before the pins get tight so the anti-walk pins eliminate the original set screws or shimsImageUploadedByTapatalk1358971798.484612.jpg
 
It uses these two set screws that push down toward the trigger so it creates higher friction for the trigger pins. Well like the picture earlier posted, the poly gives too much before the pins get tight so the anti-walk pins eliminate the original set screws or shims

I see how it works now, and how either the shim or the anti-walk pins would help. Looks like the anti-walk pins are the better bet. Thanks for the pictures and explanation.
 
Any time. Ya the anti-walks are way better in any occassion IMO. Even getting to those set screws are a real PITA than you gotta deal with them any time you want to clean or change anything
 
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