To reblue or not reblue, that is the question

[CharlesP]

I just picked up a model 10-5, 4 inch with wood grips. It hails from the early 60s, making it a few years older than me! The bluing is in pretty rough shape. It is mostly missing on the sides of the barrel and any high points on the cylinder. There are a few small areas of mild, very mild, surface rust. So the question, should I reblue or not? I know rebluing a collectors piece is a big no-no but this is not one of those. I plan on using it as a shooter and want to do what I can to protect the metal.

Thanks in advance for the input.

 

[M29since14]

Blueing doesn't do much to protect the metal. That takes plating. Reblueing a common gun like a Model 10 is just a matter of whether the owner wants to spend the money, IMO. I like my guns to look nice so my only concern about reblueing is the quality of the work. I'd rather pass than end up with poor quality work. If you can be assured of good work and don't mind spending the money, I'd say do it if that is what you want and forget the collector value stuff. Unfortunately, not everyone knows how to polish an S&W revolver.

 

[SmithWessonand Me]

Model 10's sadly are the 'Dime a dozen' S&W. If you know someone who actually owns the equipment to blue, and can do it really well, go for it. You will be much happier. If there real good its hard to tell a reblue job. We use to lightly buff the crown of the barrels when we blued guns to give them the look of have been shot before, making many people think its original blue on the gun.

 

[Chukar60]

Everybody has different experiences, but for my money, I buy guns for what they are at the time of purchase. Refinishing and repairs + the cost of the gun never = good deal for me. If you want ia shooter, you have a good one as it is.

 

[Seven3]

You're asking for opinions, so here's mine: you refinish a gun because you like it, want it to look nice, and don't mind spending the money to do so. It isn't about increasing the value of the gun, because in most cases the value won't increase enough to recoup the cost of the refinish. It's your gun, and if you want to have it reblued, go for it. If you just want to protect the metal, remove the existing rust with some bronze wool and/or an old copper penny, oil or wax it, and call it a day. Happy shooting!

 

[Hapworth]

OP: I'll echo what others have said -- reblue only if that's what makes you happy. It might very slightly increase a (full disclosure) sale down the road if the buyer also wants a nice looking shooter; for a collector it decreases value or outright kills the deal.

This'll be about your comfort levels in cash outlay versus your desire for aesthetic fulfillment, and that's the short and long of it. If you reblue, do it through the factory or a reputable shop.

 

[Hapworth]

...If there real good its hard to tell a reblue job. We use to lightly buff the crown of the barrels when we blued guns to give them the look of have been shot before, making many people think its original blue on the gun.

That's interesting information, and unsurprising to many of us who make a pastime of scrutinizing old revolvers we're considering buying.

Obviously I don't endorse it, but the following question is an honest one: what else did you do to spitshine a gun during your time in the forgery business?

 

[Clovishound]

I have a 10-5 that sounds like it is very much in the same condition. I got it for a good price (in this day and age), and it shoots great for any day or age. My buddy did a quick and dirty bluing touch up on it when I first got it.

After a year of use, it is due for another. I think this time, I will do it myself and take my time with it.

Unless the weapon had sentimental value, I would put the money a reblue would cost towards the price of another weapon, or reloading equipment, or some other major purchase.

I got mine for a range weapon, or rough carry. If I am going to carry something in the woods or where I might get it dirty, wet or muddy, this is the one I'll carry.

 

[Jack Flash]

This is an age-old question but interesting nevertheless.

What does a good re-blue cost these days? Is it $200 or is it more like $500? I think it would be easy to pay more for the re-blue than you paid for the gun itself. Many would say sell what you have and then buy one in like-new condition.

But ... if you really want to bring the old gun back to its former glory, who can say you're wrong? Some folks blow thousands on a trip to Vegas. I doubt their feeling of joy lingers long. For your re-blue, it could be you will enjoy it the rest of your life. You decide.

 

[SmithWessonand Me]

That's interesting information, and unsurprising to many of us who make a pastime of scrutinizing old revolvers we're considering buying.

Obviously I don't endorse it, but the following question is an honest one: what else did you do to spitshine a gun during your time in the forgery business?

Well it was my mother and father who did it, and they only blued guns for individuals, never to resale in our shop. A lot of guys wanted a better finish thent here gun currently had but they didnt want it to look 'Showroom New'. A lot of it is lightly hitting wear points enough so it doesn't look pristine. Like making it look like there is wear on on the hammer, if the front strap is showing, adding a little wear in the pattern of where fingers would lay on it while shooting. But the thing about that was, we charged for it. My mom did the 'forgery' as you call it and my father blued. Anyways mom would have guys hold the gun so she could see where there fingers lay and then do it. Only taking a few minutes to do. But the price of the job went up if they wanted the 'Pre broke in' look. Mom charged a extra 100 for it on top of what they charged for a blue job.

And I don't think you were being mean and hateful about the forgery, but kindly watch. My mother has just recently passed in the last few months, and for the sake of it, we never cheated anyone. Yes that gun may later be used to cheat someone, but we did it, so the customer would be happy.

But to help, I have found many guns reblued, and being tried to be passed off as 'New' Look at the crown of the barrel. Most guys dont hit the crown to well when buffing and you will see light spots.Also take the main spring out and look at the slot it goes into, and the threads for the tension bolt. I have found that to tell you if the gun is reblued or not as the blueing in those places usually never get hit and new blueing wont stick, so they you can look at the factory blue and if the rest of the gun doesn't match, then its reblued.

Also I am 22, everything I know is from growing up in a gunshop for 18 years. It was taught to me so that I can look over a gun, and tell a real from a refurbish. I don't believe in trying to sale a reblue as a original. It was the way I was brought up. We never reblued to sale, we reblued for individuals cause you can't make money on reblue to sale. Also a lot of reblue we did was old shotguns. Family heirloom kind of things.

If I think of more I will let you guys know. Also the side plates, a lot of times only the outside got reblued.

EDIT: Jack-Flash, we have been out of the business for 4 years now but we still have all our equipment and the last time my father blued which was 2 years ago he charged 300 dollars to do a shotgun, old Remington 870. But a lot of times it also factors the gun into the price, if there is a lot of disassemble then the price goes up.

 

[dant]

Lots of good points, varied opinion, and "other" vibes,but bottom line is it's YOUR gun, and there is NOTHING wrongf eith having something "nice" I for one do NOT care for what some folks call "character" and the guns look like 'crappola'....there are LOTSW of folkd out there doing bluing, refinishing and yes even "restorations" you pay for what you want to get,,,,having been in the bluing business since the late 1960's I have a bit of knowledge on just what is what...if the finished gun LOOKS like it was reblued, then it certainly will be just that, if the gun is done, refinished properly it should NOT look like it was reblued.......there are guys out there doing custom restorations and they are GOOD, you pay for it, in money as well as time its out for work...yours being a 'common' model basic bread and butter of S & W many guys don quality work, shop around, ask the factory even may need to show some pictures as to get a definitive and proper cost evaluation, as the "prep" work and finally polishing are the costly element here, most of it is 'hand work' not a simple "strip and dip".......any and all pitting is the fly in the ointment, got to get it all out and blend in the surrounding area, cannot round off corners, swale (dish) out screw holes nor remove any and all logos, and serial numbering...............the above comment as to $300 to reblue a shotgun unless it was a Browning or a Parker or such is very HIGH.........
and as other noted there ARE other finish options, the options unlimited, and again some are good ,some are bad ,do not wear or hold up to use, we've found over the years bluing and Parkerizing, if done right look the best and hold up the best and are FAR more "affordable"....we used 'Parkerizing' as a last resort to "save" some guns that were beyond being able to make like "new" guns that were water (flood damaged) even fire damaged...or if the customer simply wanted a "military" type finish, zinc phosphate for early stuff, and 'Manganese' (black) phosphate for later, newer looking stuff found on so many "black guns", heck you can even sand blast, get the matte look and use 'black oxide', very simple, easy and forgiving, and durable ( Dulite Co formulas come close to this today,many of the newer guns are MORE 'black' , than 'blued" anyway.....................
Good luck and Happy new year

 

[oldafsp]

The refinishing is a age old topic of pro's and con's. If all you wish for is a good quality shooter, then you have your answer.

If the oooh and aaah factor is high in your book, go right ahead. It's a personal choice. I love both. I have three Model 10's. 2 10-6's and a 10-5 passed down to me by my first field training officer when he passed away.

They are all working guns that I enjoy more than I can describe. They are used to teach new shooters, home defense and whatever use I find to put them to.

If I find the right 5 inch 10-5 in nickle, in near perfect condition it will become part of the collection also.

Take that Model 10 out and exercise it..it and you will love it!

 

[shawn mccarver]

I have tried after-market finishes over the years, and for the most part, always feel like I would have been better off going original.

I recommend you have S&W reblue your revolver.

 

[BSA1]

CharlesP,

I have Model 10 like yours...well worn bluing holster wear. Mine is a do everything type of gun...range and packing on occasion.

I considered rebluing once but decided with the extra cost I was getting away from the reason I brought...range and packing on occasion. I am starting to have problems with dogs again (I live in the country) so the Model 10 may start getting rides in the truck.

If I ever decide to refinish it I will go with something really rust resistant such as electroless nickel, hard chrome or armoloy. In the meantime I simply wipe it down regularly.

 

[CharlesP]

Thanks for the input! I bought it to shoot, not to be a collectors piece. I will likely just clean up the minor rust and leave the finish as is. I still look at it and wonder how nice it could look with a flawless bluing! My brother has a 3 inch model that I love to shoot that is why I bought this one. They just shoot well. It is 3 or 4 years older than me so it is allowed to have some wear and tear!

 

[samandglove1]

If there are no sentimental attachments to the gun (relative owned it, first gun ever owned, etc…) I think a re-blue is a waste of money. If you sell that gun and use whatever cash that would have been spent on the re-blue job, you can easily buy a 95%+ example. They are great guns , but are far from rare (they made a gazillion of them). I consistently see examples floating around locally and on Gunbroker for $300-400.

 

[M29since14]

CharlesP, you know you can always leave your current Model 10 as-is for a desk-drawer gun, or whatever, and buy a really pretty Model 10 to show your brother. There is no dishonor in owning two of them.

 

[CharlesP]

CharlesP, you know you can always leave your current Model 10 as-is for a desk-drawer gun, or whatever, and buy a really pretty Model 10 to show your brother. There is no dishonor in owning two of them.

So true! He has the 3 inch barrel. My wife used it to take a ladies handgun safety course and loved it. I shoot every gun I own. I won't buy one just to "collect". They are meant to be enjoyed!!!

 

[Zackary]

No, it's a shooter. Shoot it!

 

[sunnyd]

I have a 10-5 just as you describe. It looks rough but mechanically it is very good and I don't have much invested in it. One of the biggest benefits I have gotten from this gun has been using it to learn about the mechanics of SWs. I have taken it apart and put it back together many times. I have also temporarily borrowed parts from it at times when working on other SWs. I routinely keep in my truck and don't worry about it. It will never be worth less than I paid for it. The irony is that is one of my best shooters!