Trigger gauge gives 4 lbs. of variance either way

[dwever]

Keeping the rod parallel to the bore and slowly pulling averages out to 9 lbs. but if you speed your DA stroke up a little it can read 4 or 5 lbs. slow it down a lot and you consistently see 11 lbs.

11 lbs. feels about accurate so I am guessing you want a pretty slow pull, correct?


Thanks!

 

[Muss Muggins]

You have a crappy trigger gauge, exacerbated by bad technique . . . .

 

[dwever]

You have a crappy trigger gauge, exacerbated by bad technique . . . .

Can you recommend a higher quality gauge and mention something about proper technique?

 

[Muss Muggins]

Can you recommend a higher quality gauge and mention something about proper technique?

Yup. This is where I learned. Buy the revolver armorer's tool kit. When I went it was a solid week instead of two days, but I won't judge if you finish it . . .

Smith & Wesson Revolver Armorer School

 

[chief38]

I own a RCBS mechanical trigger pull weight gauge that I have tested with known weights to check accuracy and consistency. I have used said gauge for about 15 years and it has always been spot on (+ or - an ounce or 2 which for me is fine) and consistent. I can't remember what I paid for it, but I don't think it was over $40 bucks.

You need to do a smooth consistent pull with no jerking of trigger. You also need to be as parallel to the trigger as possible. If your electronic gauge is giving you inconsistent readings after that than I'd return it.

Maybe I am an old fashioned guy, but I like the mechanical pull gauges better and truly think they are more reliable for this purpose. Springs deliver consistent trigger pulls in guns time after time and I have full faith that they will do the same in a good mechanical gauge.

I am not familiar with the S&W Armorers Kit so I am not aware of what type of gauge it includes.


ADDED:
I did log on to Brownell's site and saw they also sell an NRA competition trigger pull system. It is probably the most reliable as it uses fixed weights and will never vary at all. I also saw the "Armorers Kit" and it looks to be a more compact version of the NRA style. These two are probably the MOST accurate as there is no spring to vary and no digital read outs to be overly sensitive to the way you pull. The only downside is the cost (up to $200 bucks with accessories) - and for what most of us are doing the RCBS or similar style should be perfectly fine - unless you are a serious competitor shooting in official matches.

 

[Muss Muggins]

I am not familiar with the S&W Armorers Kit so I am not aware of what type of gauge it includes.

Big hooked steel bar with several fixed weights that you hang on it until the trigger breaks. Similar scientifically to the sideplate removal, barrel straightener and ejector rod adjustment tool (big lead bar).

The key, as with most tools, is knowing what to do with it.

 

[chief38]

Big hooked steel bar with several fixed weights that you hang on it until the trigger breaks. Similar scientifically to the sideplate removal, barrel straightener and ejector rod adjustment tool (big lead bar).

The key, as with most tools, is knowing what to do with it.

After looking at one on Brownell's website I can agree that it would be the most accurate due to its FIXED weights. Nothing much to vary as long as one's method is consistent.

Anyone competing in NRA or sanctioned matches should probably have one as they are strict about minimum trigger pulls and the worst thing would be to show up for a match and get disqualified oven an ounce or two.

For setting trigger pull weight for the average Plinker I find the RCBS is more than accurate enough - mine seems accurate within a couple of ounces and most importantly - consistent. I would not trust it for an NRA sanctioned match and agree the Armorers style would be the way to go for that.

 

[mike campbell]

A tin can on a wire that you can add and remove bullets from....or a plastic jug on a wire that you can add or remove water from. Attach the wire to the container, loop it through the triggerguard and attach the other end to the container. Suspend it from the trigger, hold the gun by the barrel, pointed straight up and gently lift the container of weights until the hammer cycles/falls.

Weigh the can on a $20 postal scale.

The "technique" has to do with the angle of pull relative to the bore. the force required will vary depending on whether you pull the trigger parallel to the bore or angled slightly upward. I experiment until I get the lightest reading and use that technique until I can measure a pull weight over and over and over and get readings of +/- one ounce on SA pull, +/- 4 ounces on DA.

 

[Wee Hooker]

I have a Lyman Trigger gauge and it's just "OK". Should be better for what it costs IMHO. Also, it won't measure past 12# so many revolvers are off the scale on initial test. It is still subject to pull consistency driven accuracy issues. I wouldn't buy another as I feel it only marginally better than the electronic fishing scale I used to use. The weighted can method shown above works very well. You'll also have many future uses for a postal (or fishing scale) when your done. The trigger gauge is kind of a one trick pony.

 

[iPac]

There is nothing wrong with the digital Lyman trigger gauge, it's just as accurate as any mechanical or fixed weight system, if not better.

Some of you like to act like you have all the answers and everyone else is just treading water because they just don't know. A very smug approach. There is always more than one way to do something.

To the OP's question, you are probably getting variable readings because of your technique, I wouldn't blame it on the scale, although a faulty scale is within possibility. I have a Lyman digital and it works great and matches fixed weight or spring scale systems.

When it comes to measuring the DA trigger pull, the ENTIRE pull comes into play. You have resistance from numerous parts when pulling the trigger in DA. How fast or how slow you pull the trigger will effect the weight needed to pull the hammer back and drop it due to friction and momentum. For this reason, a fixed weight system can still be inaccurate. You add weights one at a time, which is super slowly applying pressure to the trigger. Is that how you pull in real life? So a certain technique will need to be applied with a fixed weight system as well for good results.

You want to measure the trigger pull with the exact speed, motion, and pressure on the trigger that you apply when firing with your finger. It takes some practice, but you will figure it out and your digital gauge will work just fine. If you still can't get it, then try another scale.

 

[mike campbell]

When I weigh myself I always step on and off the scale really fast. I like the number I get that way much better than the one I see if I stay on it for a few seconds.

 

[kraynky]

When I weigh myself I always step on and off the scale really fast. I like the number I get that way much better than the one I see if I stay on it for a few seconds.

I'll try that at the Doctor's office on my next visit. Bet the nurse will scowl, and make me get back on it.