Trigger Job for Model 38?

[Inusuit]

I recently acquired a 1982 vintage Model 38. Appears to have been fired infrequently. It has the worst DA trigger pull of any of dozen or so other Smiths. Seems to have smoothed up a bit with some dry firing. It's been a long time since I've had a side plate off, but I have polished the internals on a Model 17 in the distant past.

I'm tempted to get the Kuhnhausen manual and try to clean up the action just smoothing the parts. Are there other options? Replace the main spring? More dry firing?

I might also lightly break the sharp edges on the trigger which limit the amount of dry firing I am able to do.

I'd appreciate advice, thank you.

 

[armorer951]

If you are able, I would start with a complete disassembly, cleaning, and lubrication. Old lube and debris can cause problems with the internals and affect the trigger pull. Dry firing may smooth things a bit.

If it's not going to be a carry gun, perhaps an aftermarket/lighter (Wolff) hammer spring and rebound spring would also help.

 

[Rpg]

J frames often benefit from skilled trigger work.

My M 38's have all had this kind of work.

I think trigger work should be done by a qualified gunsmith: almost never the guy at the big box store.

Unless you have done 100 + such trigger jobs, they are certainly not a do it yourself proposition.

Dry fire is ineffective in significantly improving these triggers.

 

[Inusuit]

Thanks for the responses. Unfortunately, gunsmiths with S&W revolver experience are thin on the ground in my area. Rpg, what does the skilled trigger work consist of? I agree I am unqualified to do much beyond routine maintenance. There is a qualified armorer that I know through working with him in NRA classes, but I would like to be able to tell him what needs done. He did work as a smith in a local gun store for many years.

 

[Rpg]

Talk to the armourer you know about what you want as a finished product: let him do what's necessary to accomplish your goal if it's possible and within his skills. I would not try to tell him how to do it or what to do.

When I talk to my gunsmith the shorthand we use is 'an action job': something like a good PPC double action (although this is hard to achieve with j frames).

The result is a modest improvement of single action trigger and a significant improvement in double action: smoother and much lighter.

I also have the ridges on the trigger removed, smoothed and radiused.

 

[Double-O-Dave]

Inusuit:

Does your Model 38 have the narrow, serrated trigger, or the wide, smooth faced trigger? My Model 38-0 had the narrow, serrated trigger, which I switched out for the wider, smooth faced "combat" trigger. This helped the trigger pull immensely. Additionally, as Armorer951 mentioned, there was quite a bit of old oil/grease on the internal parts of my revolver. I carefully cleaned, degreased, and relubed the internal parts, and carefully smoothed the rebound slide, which really improved the trigger pull.

If you don't have anyone locally that can do the job, perhaps you should think about sending it to the factory for an action job.

Good luck,

Dave

 

[Inusuit]

Thanks again to all who offered advice. Dave, my 38 has the wider, non-serrated trigger but the edges are sharp.

I found a YouTube video of a qualified smith from Impact Guns doing an action job on 638. He replaced the main spring and rebound slide spring with after market springs from Wilson Combat, then stoned all areas where metal moves on metal with the exception of the single action sear and SA hammer engagement.

Rpg, you are correct, I don't want to try this myself. But after watching the video, I will be able to determine if the local guy knows what to do. I'm not looking for an extremely light DA pull, would be satisfied if we could get to a smooth 9-10 pounds. My Lyman gage only records to 12 pounds and the DA reading is consistently "over." SA runs 3.5 pounds which is fine with me.

 

[WR Moore]

If you're planning on using this piece for defensive use, DO NOT CHANGE THE MAINSPRING! Action work generally means removing burrs, sharp edges and machine marks where they interfere with the smooth movement of parts. Once that is done, the trigger return (rebound) spring can generally be replaced with something lighter without affecting reliable function.

A factory (Performance Center) trigger job not only would be done right and covered by a warranty, but would be extremely defensible should you be involved in a shooting.

 

[BigBill]

I clean and lube the metal to metal contact parts with ts-70 moly paste or anti seeze. Wipe off the excess. Then assemble and dry fire it working the moly into the pores of the metal.

To actually see the before and after difference you need a pull gauge. Don't touch the moving parts except for the lube. You can shim the hammer and trigger so there not dragging on the wall of the frame.
Example measure the hammer space while it's assembled on one side. While pushing the hammer to the opposite side. If you measure .010" total you need .004" of shim on each side. Put a tad of moly on the stud, both sides of the shim. The hammer will feel tight at first. Run the action till it loosens up. It will smooth right out.