Trigger Replacement

[Hearsedriver]

Can I just replace the trigger on a Model 60 without fitting it to the hammer? I had to order a replacement from smith after I discovered a corner chipped off of mine where it contacts the cylinder stop. Probably been like that for years but, it bothers me so, I decided to replace it.

 

[cuzinbruce]

You can try it but it may need to be fitted. I tried to put a target trigger into a model 10 and it wasn't right without fitting. I put the old one back and didn't go any further with it.

 

[Hearsedriver]

Well, i guess I'll know when it gets here. Its on back-order and may take 2-3 weeks. I wasnt sure how much gunsmithing would be involved since I am replacing the stock, factory trigger.

 

[Hondo44]

I have done a couple of dozen of these replacements. The good news is that 95% drop in and work perfectly. The occasional 'misfit' usually doesn't fit the cylinder stop properly. But the other good news is, just shape that little extension like your old trigger.

The important issue is that if you have an MIM trigger (hollow on the backside) you must replace with same. Forged parts do not swap with MIM parts.

What dash # is your Mod 60. If it's a pre -9 it should have forged parts. And if so, there's a nice selection of triggers to choose from: .340" smooth combat, .340" grooved target and .400" grooved target. I usually swap in the smooth combat. The skinny grooved standard trigger rubs my trigger finger raw shooting double action.

If you have an MIM trigger, they are all the wide smooth combat.

Let us know how you make out.

 

[Hearsedriver]

Its a 60-9, MIM wide smooth combat. Thats good news. Sounds like it will probably just drop in.

 

[tomcatt51]

Its a 60-9, MIM wide smooth combat. Thats good news. Sounds like it will probably just drop in.

The MIM parts are a drop-in. An MIM trigger in an older forged parts gun will usually drop in. Sometimes you'll have to use an MIM cylinder stop also and do some sear fitting. I've replaced forged triggers with .400 smooth MIM triggers on 4 of mine.

 

[Rob1109]

I have done a couple of dozen of these replacements. The good news is that 95% drop in and work perfectly. The occasional 'misfit' usually doesn't fit the cylinder stop properly. But the other good news is, just shape that little extension like your old trigger.

The important issue is that if you have an MIM trigger (hollow on the backside) you must replace with same. Forged parts do not swap with MIM parts.

What dash # is your Mod 60. If it's a pre -9 it should have forged parts. And if so, there's a nice selection of triggers to choose from: .340" smooth combat, .340" grooved target and .400" grooved target. I usually swap in the smooth combat. The skinny grooved standard trigger rubs my trigger finger raw shooting double action.

If you have an MIM trigger, they are all the wide smooth combat.

Let us know how you make out.

I just got a M12-3 with a grooved trigger that will rub me raw! Who/where at S&W? For the smooth combat? Thanks in advance...

 

[hotrod150]

I've "dropped in" a hammer or two, but have never had any luck dropping in a trigger. The two or three times I tried, the trigger operated the hammer OK both SA & DA, but had trouble on the return stroke. Maybe binding up on the cylinder stop? I even tried swapping a hammer/trigger set from another gun with no luck.
I've had a couple j-frames with the wide (.312"?) smooth combat trigger, but I prefer the earlier narrow .240" service trigger with the serrations ground smooth, the corners radiused, and the tip rounded. Pretty easy mod if you have a dremel, just don't try it with the trigger in place. If you're determined to repalce the rigger though, Numrich has lots of stuff like that in stock. Firearm Parts & Accessories | Military Surplus | Numrich Gun Parts
Check under S&W parts > revolvers > model 12.

 

[Muley Gil]

I believe the M12 uses a thinner trigger than the standard K, L, and N frames. The earlier M12s definitely use thinner grips.

Myself, I would grind off the serrations and smooth the factory trigger.

 

[shawn mccarver]

Muley Gil:

Good observation. Early 12s use a different frame in order to lighten the weight.

Oddly enough, the manufacturer of the Barami Hip-Grip did not know this until a friend and I told him at a SHOT Show about 23 years ago. He was observing that his Hip Grip did not work on the Model 12. We had to tell him that the grip frame on the early 12 is thinner to save weight, which meant that the grips would not fit flush.

As to fitting triggers, the only thing I will add is that some knowledge is required to fit the trigger to the cylinder stop, as the latter part must be "timed" so that when it drops to allow cylinder movement the top of the stop NEVER drops below the thickness of its window in the bottom of the frame lest it ride to the side and not return to its up or locking position.

As this is a big reliability issue, I prefer to have ALL fire control parts fit and timed by the factory. There are many here that know how to do it, but the OP obviously does not, which leads me to advise to get it fitted by either a COMPETENT local gunsmith or the factory. I always use the factory as it is much faster these days with "next day air" shipping.

 

[handejector]

I believe the M12 uses a thinner trigger than the standard K, L, and N frames. The earlier M12s definitely use thinner grips.

The gripstraps on a Mod 12 are standard width- roughly .350 +/- a thou or two.
It is the main part of the frame which is thinner, so yes, the hammer and trigger are thinner. They mike about .235, while standard parts go about .262.