Tru-Oil Question

[CCantu357]

My old walnut target stocks are looking a little dull, have heard Tru Oil would fix that. Do you have the strip the stocks down for it to work? I do not want to refinish the stocks just give them a shiny luster.

 

[arjay]

Give it a try.If it doesn't work,lay them in a shallow pan of thinner for a few hours and start over with fresh wood.

 

[Gunhacker]

There is no need to strip the grips down just to "refresh" them if the finish is in otherwise good shape.

First off, how old are the grips? Throughout the years S&W used various types of finishes, so they could be an either a linseed oil based varnish or polyurethane. You can refresh an oil base finish using a thinned out 50/50 Tru-oil mix to put on a thin "wash" coat.

If it is a polyurethane, then you can get a can of Min-wax wipe on Poly.

They key with either finish is all you want to do is put on a thin coat to just put a sheen back on the grips. If you use it un-thinned, you will end up with something that looks "heavy", like pancake syrup.

Another alternative... wax them.

Without seeing the grips it's imposible to say what they exactly need. These are suggestions from what I've done successfully on various grips.

Sometimes a good buffing out with a cotton cloth (using a dry soft tooth brush for the checkering) will bring them back like these, before on the left, after on the right.:

 

[CCantu357]

They are from 1959 or 1960. Finish is great just dull, like a piece of furniture that has not been dusted in some years. The have been in a Pach plastic package for a while.

 

[MichiganScott]

Strip them. You are asking for trouble by mixing finishes. Sometimes chemicals from one finish will react with another and prevent them from setting up.

 

[Gatofeo]

Here's what I've done with dull pistol grips, and even the stock and forearm of a Marlin Model 1892"
I filled the kitchen sink with water and a couple long squirts of Dawn liquid dishwashing soap.
The grips were quickly dipped in the water, then washed all over with a new toothbrush. Holding the grip underwater, I used the toothbrush over all surfaces quickly to loosen and float away any crud.
Quickly is the operative word.
Then, a quick rinse with warm water from the tap, shake off excess water, then pat dry with a terrycloth towel. I ensure no water remains in the checkering or crannies.
Then I allow the grips to dry for a week at room temperature.
You'll be surprised at how much cleaner they'll look, after all the grit, old solvent, hand perspiration, etc. are removed.
After a week of drying, I oil with Old Craftsmen's Lemon Oil With Beeswax. An old, clean toothbrush helps work the Old Craftsmen's into the checkering. Apply liberally all over the grip, including the interior.
Allow the oil to penetrate into the grips for a couple of days, at room temperature.
There probably won't be any excess oil on the grips after a couple of days, but wipe the grips with a soft cloth, just the same.
Use the same soft cloth to polish.
This results in a nice oil finish. Not shiny like varnish, but it really brings out the grain.
My 1892 Marlin stock was dark brown, almost black, when I received it. A scrubbing with hot, soapy water removed a century of crud. After drying for two weeks, I oiled as above. The grain just popped out. Mind you, the stock is not as fresh as when it left the factory sometime between 1905 and 1908, but it's much better than what I received.
I've had the same luck with old grips.
But you must be patient! At least a week of drying, then oiling, then a few days of letting it soak up the oil/beeswax combination.
Others may disagree, but a quick bath in soapy water, followed by a rinse and immediate drying, hasn't hurt any of my wood. They still fit closely on the frame, without any warping.
The key is a very short bath, followed by the removal of all excess moisture, then drying at room temperature.

 

[H Richard]

If it's the polyurethane finish, it can be "freshened" up by wiping them off with a cotton ball dipped in some acetone. Only wipe in one direction, and do not wipe multiple times.

 

[CCantu357]

I would rather not strip them, just want to get a nice glossy polish, would a wood polish like Old English work?

 

[Marine Corps Air]

I've used Old English many times before in the past on wood, especially furniture, and have always had very good results. However, the Old English seems to always leave an oil residue even after I have wiped off the excess and polished the wood. After reading the posts from other forum members, I've recently started using Renaissance Wax which so far is providing some excellent results for my all of revolvers. Depending on the condition of your grips, this may provide you with the results that you want, and will allow you to avoid refinishing the grips.

 

[Gunhacker]

They are from 1959 or 1960. Finish is great just dull, like a piece of furniture that has not been dusted in some years. The have been in a Pach plastic package for a while.

That describes the grips that I put in my earlier posting. They looked absolutely dull and were late 50's vintage. When it comes to attempting to revive a finish, I'm a minimalist and feel people are far too eager to just break out the stripper and have at it, especially on the older grips, when it may not be needed.

You're most likely dealing with a boiled linseed oil type varnish, and Tru-oil which is a modified linseed oil, will have no problem being applied on top of it, if needed.

If they've been lightly used and finish looks intact, my first move with vintage grips is to see if a sheen can be raised on a small spot using a white cotton tee-shirt to buff it out, if you see that it can be done, then all the grips need is some elbow grease and hand polishing. For the checkered area, I use a new medium bristle toothbrush to buff them out the same way a brush is used to buff out/polish a shoe.

If a sheen can't be raised, then I use some thinned out Tru-oil (a 50/50 mix of thinner and oil) and apply a thin coat to the un-checkered sections, working the oil into the wood with my finger, I let it throughly dry and buff with the cotton T. For the checkered area, I use a soft toothbrush lightly dampened with some of the thinned out Tru-oil and apply sparingly to just wet the checkering, let it dry and use a clean tooth brush to burnish/buff it out.

The pictures of the grips in my other post where the "before' was dull and lifeless, all that I did to bring them back was buff them out and apply a coat of Renaissance Wax.

 

[crsides]

That describes the grips that I put in my earlier posting. They looked absolutely dull and were late 50's vintage. When it comes to attempting to revive a finish, I'm a minimalist and feel people are far too eager to just break out the stripper and have at it, especially on the older grips, when it may not be needed.

You're most likely dealing with a boiled linseed oil type varnish, and Tru-oil which is a modified linseed oil, will have no problem being applied on top of it, if needed.

If they've been lightly used and finish looks intact, my first move with vintage grips is to see if a sheen can be raised on a small spot using a white cotton tee-shirt to buff it out, if you see that it can be done, then all the grips need is some elbow grease and hand polishing. For the checkered area, I use a new medium bristle toothbrush to buff them out the same way a brush is used to buff out/polish a shoe.

If a sheen can't be raised, then I use some thinned out Tru-oil (a 50/50 mix of thinner and oil) and apply a thin coat to the un-checkered sections, working the oil into the wood with my finger, I let it throughly dry and buff with the cotton T. For the checkered area, I use a soft toothbrush lightly dampened with some of the thinned out Tru-oil and apply sparingly to just wet the checkering, let it dry and use a clean tooth brush to burnish/buff it out.

The pictures of the grips in my other post where the "before' was dull and lifeless, all that I did to bring them back was buff them out and apply a coat of Renaissance Wax.

I do the same, except I use the wife's toothbrush. Seriously, a 50/50 mix of Tru oil and whatever you want to cut it with (turpentine, Coleman's fuel, mineral spirits, etc) applied with finger tips, with a VERY light coat will work wonders for the old grips. One problem with Tru-oil is partial bottles. If opened and partially used, the dryers can evaporate after years of sitting idle, and the tru oil will not dry. EVER. Start with a new bottle, and as you use it and before storing add something to the bottle to bring the liquid level up to the top, ie marbles, bolts, anything inert and cheap. Also helps when shaking up the next time around.


Charlie

 

[olskool]

use the tru-oil in the spray can. just spray it over the grips lightly, instant shine.