Upgrading a Sport II or just get a T?

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I am just now getting into the market for an AR. I rented and fired one for the first time yesterday and really enjoyed myself... except that I suck at it, lol. The peep sights are killer for my blurry eyes. I couldn't find the front post to save my life... which if that were ever a literal issue would be very bad.

Anyhow... I've looked an awful lot at the Sport II. It seems to have a great reputation in and of itself and add to that the price point and it looks like S&W really did something right. However... those A2 front sights... ugh.

I started to look at different options... like the MP15T, where I can easily lower the iron sights out of the way and have an optic mounted for most use. I also like the room to grow the gun with the rails already present should that ever become a need/desire. I can't seem to find anyone anywhere right now, but that's OK, I'm not buying tomorrow. But I have been curious... given the awesome price of the Sport II... would it be affordable (and possible) to have the front sight and hand guard replaced to be closer to the Tactical? Or would it be more cost efficient to just start with the T?

And... am I just dumb and need more range time on an A2 thereby making the Sport a great choice anyhow? Or can I still get an optic on the Sport II? With the A2 obstruct my sight picture on something like a red dot?

Thanks for any and all help... I'm seriously a noob here and need all the help I can get (and not just with the shooting sports!)
 
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In a combat-type rifle like an AR, even one equipped with some type of quality optics, I think still having some irons on it is practical and desirable (on the off-chance your optics are damaged, you want to be able to resort to sights that still allow the weapon to be used, at more than shotgun distances, IMO).
Also, I know a front sight post doesn't interfere with your vison through a traditional magnified scope, but I'm not sure about one of the (typically) un-magnified red-dot/holographic type optics.
 
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I would certainly have some form of iron sights. It's just that I did not particularly care for the peep sight format. I'm OK with a more open sight... like a pistol. It's just that my blurry eyes had a real hard time having any sight picture large enough for me to see anything. I'd imagine a larger back sight would be OK... but I'm not familiar with them enough to know how that might alter accuracy. The gentleman at the range told me I should only use the smaller of the two back sight peep holes so I didn't shoot the ceiling (I'm a fairly competent person and doubt I would have done that... but I presumed he knew more than me and followed his advice).
 
I don't mean this to come off as rude, so please don't take it as such... but do you know how to properly use the peep sight? You should be very close up to the rear sight. Notice the location of the soldier to the rear sight in this video... Nose to charging handle. That is how we were taught in the military.

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V6pXyFPokRY"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V6pXyFPokRY[/ame]

As far as using red dots with a fixed A2 front sight, it comes down to co-witness, and shooting with both eyes open focusing on the target down range.

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ogX-cIx9hpk"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ogX-cIx9hpk[/ame]
 
No... not rude at all. Information to help me grow from a first timer to someone who can fully enjoy the sport is helpful! I will watch these vids and hopefully they help.
 
You'll easily spend $300 to change out the gas block, railed hand guard (likely free floated),new folding front sight and on a smith if you can't do it yourself. Thats for quality parts. If that's how you intend to modify the sport then I'd go with the T. Be aware that if you need any warranty work on the gun and you do any mods, you'll need to put the oem stuff back on.

You can easily put an optic on the sport whether it's a red dot or scope. Decide which 'witness' you want for a red dot. I personally like co-witness. A scope will function fine as well once you get beyond 3x magnification. The front post will disappear looking through the glass.
 
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Forget the T, jump to the TS. The rail is heads and shoulders better and you get 1:7 twist for heavier bullets. That's what I would do.
 
I am late to reply. To the OP, here is my advice when buying your 1st AR-15.

1. Determine your primary purpose of use. Are you looking to shoot 0 - 100 yards with minute of bad guy accuracy on the range and self defense? Are you primarily sitting at a bench having fun trying to achieve small groups?

2. Think of ideal AR-15 in your head. What does it look like? What stock, forend, sights, are on it? Does your ideal rifle have a trigger or optic on it (scope or dot)?

3. Assess your physical condition. Are there modifications or attachments that are absolutely necessary to make the rifle work for you?

3. Set a maximum budget. What money can you spend on this hobby after meeting all your financial obligations and funding your existing discretionary recreational activities that keep you sane from day to day.

4. Be mindful of the total cost of ownership. Factor in taxes and fees. Factor in the must have items: sling, a few extra magazines, ammo, cleaning kit and supplies, a case. If buying an "optics ready" model, iron sights.

5. If you require an optic, determine which type. Do you want a traditional turret adjustable scope? Do you want a quick acquisition red dot or holographic sight? Either factor that cost into your max budget so you can have it immediately OR factor that cost into a future purchase and save up.

6. With all of this in mind, choose a factory complete rifle from a well known, long established, big manufacturer that is factory equipped with as many of the features you desire that fits within your budget.​

From your original post , I deduce:

  • You do not want an A2 front sight post.
  • Due to your eyesight, you will probably benefit from an optic. In particular, a red dot / holographic sight.

IMO, the 15-Sport II isn't for you.
 
First, you have to make a choice on whether or not you wish to become completely dependent on Optical Sights. BTW, at 61 years of age I've become so far sighted that the sights on a handgun or rifle are always blurry for me unless I "cheat" and shoot with reading glasses.

I also have a precision AR that was rather expensive to build and is 1/3 MOA capable on days when I am really shooting well. My primary use for this rifle is to challenge my ability by attempting to achieve hits on 1/2 diameter stickers at 100 yards. Naturally this rifle is equipped with a good rifle scope that I've spent a good bit of money for and time using. One thing I've discovered is that even with a good sight set up correctly your eyes will get tired and you will then have difficulty simply seeing the crosshairs. Point is here that Optics aren't a perfect solution, especially for those of use getting a bit long in the tooth.

I actually spend most of my time shooting with iron sights and doing it without even the aid of reading glasses. Because I have learned that by constant practice I can maintain my ability to shoot pretty accurately with sights that are rather blurry. BTW, the aperture in a rear peep sight can actually help with blurred vision if used properly. Because if you peer through a small aperture it will increase the "depth of field" of your focus just like using a smaller aperture on a camera lens will. The "trick" here is to place your eye as close to that rear peep sight as is possible. What this means that a rear peep sight can serve the same purpose as reading glasses without using any glass. Which is why this old fart can still shoot with irons with a fairly high degree of accuracy. BTW, on a very good day that means 1 inch five shot groups at 100 yards from a rest and on a more average day somewhere around 1 1/2 inch groups.

Point here is Iron Sights can still work, even for those who need to stand on a chair to see a menu at a restaurant. However, maintaining the skill to do this requires PRACTICE and that is why I stated that the use of Optics can make you DEPENDENT on Optics.

Now, some tips. First, a dab of white paint on a front sight post can make a HUGE difference of you are shooting at a black target. If you are shooting at a small dot on a white paper plate or something similar you'll want to leave the front sight post black. Second, with the standard Military style aperture sight arrangement you want to place the rear peep sight at a distance where the outer ring will coincide with the "wings" on the front sight. This will aid in keeping the front sight post well centered in the aperture, which is the KEY to shooting accurately with this style of sight and why PRACTICE is so important. The key to accurate shooting with any type of iron sight on a rifle is getting your eye positioned exactly the same every time you sight the rifle. Which is why a round rear peep sight is so advantageous. However, even with a peep sight there is still room for some misalignment so IMO using iron sights can be a "use it or lose it" proposition.

Some additional things to consider. I have reflex sights for both of my 16 inch AR's and 3 of my revolvers. While I don't use them a lot they are a useful type of sight to use for accurate results out to about 50 yards. The reason I don't use them a lot is because I feel I could become too dependent on them. A big plus for reflex sights is that they are nearly weightless. BTW, that 20 inch precision AR of mine weighs in at a bit over 11 lbs. with the scope mounted and that scope is NEVER removed for fear of disturbing it's sight alignment. My 16 inch AR's both come in at just a bit over 6 lbs. with iron sights. When I wish to shoot the shorter rifles with Optics for load developments or simply a break from irons I have a 2-8x40 cheap scope in a Burris QD mount or a dedicated reflex sights in a QD mount. Note, I've found that a QD (Quick Detach) mount will typically repeat the sight alignment within about 1/2-3/4 inch at 100 yards with is plenty good enough for me to see if a particular new load shoots up to snuff. I also have folding Magpul sights front and rear on my 16 inch AR's, so I can fold them out of the way if I'm going to shoot with optics, however each QD reflex is set to a center co-witness with the irons for two reasons. One is that it allows me to double check sight alignment and the other is so I can use the same cheek weld with either sight. BTW one of my shorter AR's is a 300 Blackout and the other is a 223 Wylde (an accurized chambering for either 223R or 5.56 Nato). By happy coincidence my most common load for the 223 is only 2 ticks different in elevation at 8X than what I typically shoot in the 300 BLK so all I have to do is use a different tick in the crosshair on that QD scope setup when using the scope. I'll also note that the Burris PERP scope mount IMO is well worth the 130 bucks I paid for it when it was on sale. Height of the scope is dead on perfect for my cheek weld on the butt stock on either AR and it actually repeats very well for a detachable mount.

Finally, spend time thinking about what you want to do with your FIRST AR. Because the AR15 is such a flexible platform you really can't have just one and because it is real easy to get really expensive with all the bells and whistles available for an AR. BTW, on my precision rifle the barrel and scope alone totaled at just north of 1000 bucks and I went relatively "cheap". If you want a single point rifled barrel that doesn't start stringing shots as it heats up you can expect the cost to start at 5 grand. Then there are the various high end scope systems out there that can make your jaw drop with the cost. If you want a rifle for short range plinking at 100 yards or less I think it would be hard to beat the M&P Sport II and maybe 2 bucks spent on a bottle of Testors model paint at a hobby shop. Speaking as someone who has hand built every one of his AR's using premium components I have to tell you that every time I see the Sport II on sale at a bargain 600 bucks I am tempted to pick one up simply to use a range "beater" I can just throw in the trunk for days when I have a free hour or two.
 
I really can't add to what the fine people above me said. Think about what you wan to do with the rifle before you buy and buy the rifle with most, if not all the features you want. It will save you money in the long run since buying a basic rifle and adding to it later is going to be more expensive than just getting the rifle with the stuff already on it.

Also, don't get obsessed about rifle twist too much. A 1:9 or 1:8 twist barrel is generally all most people need. Most rifles seem to be coming with 1:9 more often than not now and will shoot most commonly available rounds that one finds on the store shelf (50, 55, and 62 grain bullets).
 
Also, don't get obsessed about rifle twist too much. A 1:9 or 1:8 twist barrel is generally all most people need. Most rifles seem to be coming with 1:9 more often than not now and will shoot most commonly available rounds that one finds on the store shelf (50, 55, and 62 grain bullets).

I'll disagree a bit. Most of the medium to higher priced rifles are coming with 1:7s, it's the lower priced rifles that you see mostly with the 1:9s. 1:8s I see mostly with the .300blk barrels, but some like the M&P 15T its standard.
 
If you want to run the widest selection of commonly found, reasonably priced, off the shelf, factory ammo, zero in on the 1:8 barrel. As long as you don't go to either extreme end of the projectile weight range, you're good to go. There's nice freedom in being able to just buy whatever is in stock at Wally-World and know you'll just have to deal with impact shift.
 
Depending on your budget you may be better served by purchasing neither of those rifles. While the FSB won't hinder your ability to use a red-dot, it is preferable to not have one, since they limit the type and length of handguard you can use and the subsequent mounting of accessories (mainly a light). The 15T is a better choice out of the two, but if you are willing to spend a little more there are better options, and even at the same price you may be better off buying a completed lower and mating it to a completed upper where you can get all the features you want.

It is important to factor in what you are able to / willing to spend on the entire package (rifle, optics, light, sling, mags, etc), as you are better off with a Sport II and an Aimpoint PRO than a 15T with a $50 red dot.
 
ARs are sold in about every possible configuration. Buy the rifle you want instead of the rifle you want to replace.
 
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The rear sight on the Sport II folds so not a problem. The front post doesn't fold. So use a spacer rail to mount a red dot high enough that you are just over the front post. I happen to really like the Eotech standard reticle w/ it's 1 MOA dot
Holographic Ballistic Reticle Information | EOTech
At retail prices you can have a Sport II and an Eotech for about the same as the 15T.
 
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