Useful calculator for cost of reloads

[Frailer]

You didn't read and understand the full post or I did a poor job of explaining things. You probably fall into the "handloader" category rather than "reloader". There's a big difference as pointed out in the post.

Thanks for pointing that out. I missed your distinction between “reloader” and “handloader” on my first read also.

By your definition I am definitely a “reloader.” I only started because .38 Spl wadcutters became difficult to find, and they were ridiculously expensive when I finally did so. For semi-auto calibers I go the buy it cheap and stack it deep route. I do *not* need another hobby.

 

[rockquarry]

Thanks for pointing that out. I missed your distinction between “reloader” and “handloader” on my first read also.

By your definition I am definitely a “reloader.” I only started because .38 Spl wadcutters became difficult to find, and they were ridiculously expensive when I finally did so. For semi-auto calibers I go the buy it cheap and stack it deep route. I do *not* need another hobby.

Again, nothing wrong with either approach when assembling ammo from components depending on one's needs, wants, and interests, but there's a distinct difference between the two.

I've never been particularly good at clearly explaining anything and would make a pretty sorry teacher.

 

[george_lehr]

I'm mostly a reloader, but if you considered what I've spent for basic reloading equipment and then later on upgraded equipment, you'd see I'm not in it to save money.
None the less, I liked using the calculator. I could plug in the average prices I was used to paying before the pandemic/shortage for powder, primers and bullets. I reload my own brass or range pick ups, so the brass cost = zero. Then I could plug in the ridiculous recent prices I've seen for powder, or primers, or bullets. Push the calculate button and it was comforting to see that the per round cost is still a bargain.
Thanks, SupportTheSecond.

George

 

[len917]

Nothing wrong with using a cost calculator to compare home reloads with factory ammo costs. It can actually be rather enlightening. In times of plenty, it may not be worth the time to reload some calibers. Calculating costs can also tell you how much more you get to shoot when reloading versus buying factory ammo.

+1 count me in

 

[GypsmJim]

Back in the olden days when I got my first home computer with Lotus123, I set up a program to log in all of my guns. Sounded like a good idea for insurance purposes.

Then, I put all my load data to print, and discarded all my old hand written notes.

Finally, I wondered what my reloaded ammo cost, so I put that in a file as well, itemizing round cost, box of 20, box of 25, box of 50, box of 100, etc., depending upon the caliber or gauge.

My cost file is now up to revision 10. I archived the old ones, so one can see the progression.

My Rev10 was made 19 months ago, after a major purchase the day after the guy on the 11:00 news uttered the word "Pandemic". (boy, if you didn't see that coming)

I've seen store bought and free calculators, but mine is much better, plus it was so easy to do and took very little time.

 

[len917]

Manufactured products are calculated by the cost of raw materials and man hours to produce a particular amount of product. The cost of the machinery is not calculated in that cost. Machinery, (in this case, reloading equipt) should be ammoratized over a period of time not by the amount of output.
At that time, the equipment has "no value" even though it's still producing.
All said-it's still much cheaper to reload

 

[LostintheOzone]

Thanks for posting that. Makes things simple. That is the cost of components but not the gear to reload. I put that cost at about $750 initially. As a general rule of thumb that cost is paid for in about 2 years if you shoot 2500 rds a year. At that point you're ammo costs are about half the cost of buying factory ammo. If you shoot less, longer. If you shoot more, less time.

All this depends on the cartridges you shoot. .223/5.56 will take less time to recoup your investment than say, 9mm. Nobody can really calculate the cost of your time. That's like saying how much is your time worth to play 16 holes of golf or a day on the slopes playing in the snow. Priceless.

People that I know who reload, including myself, generally don't reload to save money, they reload so they can shoot more. The only people that are shooting a lot these days are people that reload. A day at the range shouldn't cost more than a tank full of gas.

 

[glenwolde]

I use the cost calculators. They are a handy tool. Lately I've been diddling with one to see what more current pricing on components does to my cost.

I don't find reloading fun. But I don't hate it. I do find it interesting. More of a curiosity thing. Mostly I just want the ammo. I shoot several thousand rounds a year so it definitely saves money. Plus I have a .41 magnum.

But one of the greatest advantages to me is continuity. I've been shooting the same .38 load for 40 years. I don't have to be concerned with some new batch of factory loads and how it performs because I can't find the one I like. For instance .38 wadcutters used to be common. Not so much anymore. I can't imagine trying to keep all my calibers supplied with factory ammo. If that was my only option things would have to change quite a bit.

You need to at least be able to reload every caliber you have, even if you don't want to at any given point because factory ammo will do. I had to break out my 9mm dies this summer. I wanted to shoot my 9mm 1911 that I haven't shot in a while. No problem.

This stuff will pass. The cast bullet vendors this time around got behind but they came back quicker and prices haven't really gone crazy. I didn't have to break out my bullet casting equipment. I think we'll get back to normal in time. Prices will be a bit higher, but the pre-pandemic prices were more than the 2000's prices.

 

[Dino1]

Factor in the cost of buying match grade ammo and loading your own match grade and the cost factor takes on a whole new meaning, the difference is significant. That and the fact that you can load to what your barrel likes makes your hand loaded ammo that much better than the store bought stuff. Don't get me wrong on this I load plenty of plinking ammo for my rifles on my progressive press along with some of my pistol stuff.

 

[Ole Joe Clark]

I've been reloading, casting bullets, and associated things, especially shooting them up, since around 1975 or so. Loading 50 rounds of .243 is still a fun project, and going to the range and emptying the hulls so I can do the same thing over is extremely satisfying.

Loading 2,000 pcs of 9mm is work, especially since I woke up one morning and discovered that I am old and not as strong as I once was. But my wife and family and shot many rounds with me and know how to handle a firearm safely and proficiently.

I like charts, so I have logs of almost all of the rifle and pistol rounds I have loaded, none on shotgun shells. I don't track costs, most of the reloading presses and accessories are ancient, like me, but still work. If I was just getting into reloading, I probably couldn't afford the quality tools I have now. When I die, my descendants will probably give my stuff away, who knows.

Have a blessed day,

Leon

 

[ArchAngelCD]

I definitely enjoy reloading and my friends think I shoot just to generate the brass to reload some more lol.

I also enjoy saving money by reloading. When I started shooting the 45 Colt and the 45-70 I found the cost of ammo prohibitive. IMO $50/50 rounds of 45 Colt is just too much and 45-70 ammo is not only expensive it's really not designed today to shoot from a Springfield Trapdoor. I like loading a 405gr cast bullet for the Trapdoor and also like the savings too. I guess you can consider me a reloaded and handloader.

I never loaded for the 9mm until the prices jumped through the stratosphere. Now I do load for the 9mm and my ammo is more accurate than most factory ammo ever was.

I'm guessing from this thread there are many in both camps and no-one is wrong.

 

[Green Frog]

When I started reloading 40+ years ago, components were dirt cheap compared to factory ammo (which back then had prices we’d kill for today.) the mantra was, “you won’t save money reloading, you’ll just shoot more for the same money.”

A decade or so later I discovered precision hand loading along with precision bullet casting, etc) and while the cost of some of my supplies and tooling went up somewhat, my accuracy went up a lot. Now I reload for stuff I’m just shooting for fun, but still hand load when I “care enough to send the very best.”

Froggie

 

[glowe]

Well, lots of animosity over nothing. The calculator is a shortcut to an answer, so you will save time not having to worry about all the conversions necessary to come up with the same answer.

I DO NOT load to save money, never have, never will. What I can do, however, is generate loads never available commercially. Finding the most accurate load is not so simple as buying a few overpriced boxes of ammo from Hornady, Norma, H&H, Speer, or Federal Premium. I have tried many of them, but by careful handloading, I can best their performance and accuracy.

I tried the calculator just to see how primer costs impact loading a box of 45-70 ammo. I have the brass, so the cost to reload is rather low. What I really wanted to see is how much the sky high prices of primers affect the cost to reload. I use 26 grains or 5744 which I bought before the crisis, a 300g jacked bullets which you can still find, and of course a primer. The total cost of a 20 round box is $12.60 if you price primers at $100 per thousand. At the old price of $30 per thousand, you will save only $1.40 per box. So whether you pay sky primer prices or not, there has never been a commercial box of 45-70 priced at $13.00.

 

[GypsmJim]

Manufactured products are calculated by the cost of raw materials and man hours to produce a particular amount of product. The cost of the machinery is not calculated in that cost. Machinery, (in this case, reloading equipt) should be ammoratized over a period of time not by the amount of output.
At that time, the equipment has "no value" even though it's still producing.
All said-it's still much cheaper to reload

A factory or company amortizes their equipment over time because the calculations are needed for tax purposes, since most, if not all, of the machines are purchased with a loan.

For a home crapsman making ammo, the equipment is amortized over round count, with the ammo cost compared to what would have been a factory cost.

When the delta between home made and store bought equals the equipment cost, the equipment is paid off and all future ammo only reflects the component cost.

If the loading equipment is amortized over time alone, and the person only loads 1 box a year, the calculations do not accurately reflect the equipment value.

 

[Liftrat]

A factory or company amortizes their equipment over time because the calculations are needed for tax purposes, since most, if not all, of the machines are purchased with a loan.

For a home crapsman making ammo, the equipment is amortized over round count, with the ammo cost compared to what would have been a factory cost.

When the delta between home made and store bought equals the equipment cost, the equipment is paid off and all future ammo only reflects the component cost.

If the loading equipment is amortized over time alone, and the person only loads 1 box a year, the calculations do not accurately reflect the equipment value.

That was my thinking. I've kept records of every tool, accessory, and component I've bought, and divide that total by rounds loaded. The only real hitch is that the falling value of the dollar throws it askew over time. And BTW, I resent being called a "crapsman"

 

[WDW44]

Reloading for many years...

I began reloading in 1975, or there about, thanks to the generosity of an ex-cop friend, who had survived many gunfights during the 70's in Hartford, Ct. Hew was an Elmer Keith believer and used many of a load that resembled the Skeeter. He shot .38/.357, and .44 both special and magnum. Through his teaching, and my avid curiosity I loaded thousands of loads and became a locally noted revolver shooter. I reloaded almost ALL the ammo I shot for practice, duty, competition, and to satisfy my curiosity about loads NOT provided by factories.


I know I saved money too, which was of its own end.


Today at 70 years old, I am having to start up again as all my reloads I had stockpiled are now depleted. Costs in the 70-85 era were very reasonable, and I could save 4-5 dollars, per 50 rounds, over factory when shooting .38/.357. Wehn I began shooting .44 the cost saving was slightly higher due to the "Dirty Harry" demands for Magnums. I could buy .44 specials for about as cheap as .38 specials. Times were good.


NOW, cost of factory .44's of special or magnum as OUTYRAGEOUS! I blame "supply and demand' and the ammo manufacturers for allowing that. It translates to GREED, in my way of thinking. So I will reload again.



As stated earlier, I also am a thinker and curious about 'WHAT IF...". Recently I have been over-thinking/researching about using two 150Grain WC, in a .44 magnum case at about 800 fps max. I have just begun to experiment and the cost to reload them are about half to 2/3 of factory ammo, without the double tap capability per trigger pull. A S&W loaded with them would provide likely GREAT results if something must be shot to protect me or mine. I cannot give a $$ savings amount, but I KNOW it will be encouraging.


I personally know of the results of .38/357 HBWC, swagged to a tapered hollow point, on two human targets. I had loaded these to about 1000 fps,give or take, depending on barrel length. Both were one shot stops, and both parties did not survive. I wish I could find some soft cast HBWC in say 180 grain for the .44. Once again, reloading would be the best way to come up with a fight stopper, as the .44 caliber by itself is a pretty good bet with good reloads, whether Specials or Magnums, AND the cost would be GOOD, and factory will never make such a perfect round.


So call me a re-loader, or a hand-loader, it matters not to me, just pass me my rounds when I need them...and we are good.

 

[Old&Retired]

I can agree with both sides of this thread. Rarely use a calculator for costs, but do have one that prints out easy to read labels in two different sizes.
Also has total cost amortization as well as energy calculations.
For those that enjoy calculators, enjoy.

 

[AJ]

Crunching all the numbers can spit out a price tag that shows a per round or per box price of actual cost laid out, but it cannot capture what it truly takes to weasel down the costs.

This summer I dropped $500 in a primer buy and $1,500 in a bullet buy to jump on a good component deal. Those purchases will help me to put a shockingly low price on my costs, but you have to be diligent, fortunate AND have the funds available at a moment’s notice to pull that off, and a cost calculator cannot show that.

It also cannot account for the time and energy I spend in this endeavor.

Deals are out there. I found this yesterday at a gun show here. 500 .32 90 grain SWC's, 500 .32 78 grain RN, 500 .30 cal 115 grain RN and 150 Starline .32 H&R Magnum cases for $50.00 OTD.