Vernier vs. Dial Caliper

airfoil

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It sounds like a lot of you out there prefer a dial caliper to a digital because the dial doesn't have any batteries to change or electronics to fail. Lets go a little farther. How about a vernier caliper that doesn't even have a crystal to break? How does a vernier caliper work for general brass reloading?
 
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They will all work if you know how to read them and take care of them. I was a machinist for 15 years measuring thing with a caliper was the same as using a tape measure to most. Every caliper can work they just need to be cared for. Personally I use a digital to measure my reloads. I veneer would definately be the sterdiest. I never had great luck with dial calipers, I bumped them off the bench too often and they seem to be the most likely to break from a fall.
 
I'll add a caveat that most of the cheap($10 and less) Verniers I've tried have horrible legibility to the point where I'd consider the vernier scale useless. On the cheap ones I've used, the vernier scale markings were simply stamped but not filled in, so the contrast was low, and even worse they didn't come all the way to the edge of the window. This means that it's impossible to see the markings "line up"(which is the whole point of a Vernier scale). Good Verniers, of course, don't have this problem and are quite legible.

I find a good Vernier caliper as fast to use as a dial caliper(with practice) but a loss less temperamental.

If I were sticking to the inexpensive ones, though, I'd stick to dial calipers or even digitals.
 
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Vernier calipers are slower than digital. I often need a magnifying glass to see which lines are actually in alignment.

I had one with metric and imperial scales. The imperial was normal but the metric was in 1/20s of a millimeter.
 
good Verniers are more precise then good dial calipers. but a good set of dial is easier to zero then the verniers so you can adjust them for various conditions.
notice GOOD is the key here.
 
Don't mess with verniers unless you have good light, good eyes and time to waste. Dial calipers are o.k. but I would buy a good set. You need to get into the $60 -$80 range for a good pair. If you have got the bucks buy a Starrett, Mitutoyo or Brown & Sharp. The problem with dial calipers is that you are never sure when the needle lands just past or in front of the line you will then have to round or guesstamate. Digitals IMHO would be my choice, batteries last for years if you remember turn them off. Most modern digital caliper have an auto/off feature. THE problem with any dial calipers is that you cannot get a good consistant "feel" with them. Measure something with them and you can make the dimension vary by .003 to .005. However that being said, I am not a reloader and know very little about reloading so maybe a .003 to .005 variance want matter. If you want accuracy, get a good micrometer. Most machinist will use calipers when they have a plus/minus .005 tolerance. Anything that requires a tighter tolerance they will rough it in with calipers (quicker) and then finish with a mic. Any of these tools should be treated with great care and respect.
 
A Verniers is OK, but I have trouble seeing the scale of late. My dial calipers gets the most work and has done so for many years. Treat them kind and they last a long time.
I still use a mic when I want a precise reading on some stuff.
My shotgun bore guages are all dial reading instruments. They work fine.

I've never owned a digital caliper. Nothing against them, just never needed a new one to replace the dial calipers I'm using.
Plus,,I'm not a real fan of digital stuff,,just an age thing I guess.
Same weight beam reloading scale I started out with in the early 60's.

The postal scale is digital,,one concession to technology I guess.
But I still have the 'seed and feed' chain&dail scale.
 
My machine shop teacher held that calipers were a little better than a yardstick, but if you want to measure precisely you need a micrometer. The cheapest consistent caliper for me is a dial type, and although I have a couple of "good" Mitotuyos, the early stainless Lyman I got years ago gets a lot of use for reloading, etc. JMHO, YMMV.

Froggie
 
I've used about every measuring device on the planet from a yard stick to a laser interferometer to a MicroDerm (beta backscatter). As far as calipers, I prefer Vernier because they're very durable and accurate. A good pair is easy and quick to read if you're use to it.
 
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My Dial is a Starrett 0.001 and is very accurate. You may need to recalibrate it due to big temperature changes.
 
Wow, you guys more than answered my question. Here is my take-away: Either go cheap IE: Harbor Freight or go quality IE: Starrett, B & S or Mitotuyo. Vernier is durable and reliable but takes practice and patience. Didgitals are fine but you always wonder. I ordered a 4" Mitotuyo dial caliper today. Thanks to all of you. Happy Shooting
 
A good vernier caliper is readable to 0.001", and there is very little to go wrong with it. It's just not that easy or quick to read.

Dial calipers are just as accurate, when well maintained, and much easier to read. Once the rack and pinion are contaminated, accuracy goes out the window and you can do some real damage to the tight tolerances. Mine was fine for over 40 years, until I spilled some powder on it (Unique, I think). That stuff is like chewing gum once it's mashed between gears. I had to disassemble it, clean the rack and pinion in an ultrasonic bath, and re-assemble it. That's a trick, because the pinion is split and the halves spring loaded. Then it's trial and error to get the right tooth on each to mesh.

A digital caliper is even more accurate than a dial, and there's hardly anything to go wrong besides a dead battery. I bought a good one, Mitutoyo, which was not cheap, but well made. It's probably overkill for reloading, but I was an engineer for over 30 years, the last three in Metrology. Old habits are hard to break.

It takes skill and practice to use any precision instrument - including straight and with the right feel. Good calipers are stiffer than cheap ones, and work a lot more smoothly. That said, bullets aren't as critical as bearings.
 
calipers or micrometers

You have to develop a feel to apply constant pressure when measuring. You can squeeze anything too hard and barely touching the surface won't work either. I had a micrometer that had a ratchet on it to limit the amount of force on the measured piece, but you could still screw the measurement up if you clamped down too fast. It'd be nice to have a blade micrometer, inside micrometer and all that, but a caliper works fine for what I need.
 
I am still using the Starrett DIAL Caliper I purchased 35 years ago. I use it (along with the depth attachment that I bought with it) at least 3 or 4 times per week and it gets used more than all my other 10 Micrometers and Calipers put together.

I guess it's me, but I never took a liking to digital or electronic precision measuring or weighing devises. Hey, I admit it...... it's me, but the old fashion dial or analog has always been trustworthy and has never failed me.
 
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