Water heater installation cost

[Jeff423]

Friday afternoon my water heater went out. (Never happens on a Wednesday).
The new heater was delivered today. I thought at my age I'd pay to have it installed. The first place I called only would only install a heater I bought from them - $2500. The second place wanted $1000 to install my heater and the third place wanted $1250 but they were going to install a new expansion tank as well.
I'm not against plumbers and I think "The laborer is worthy of his hire", but still this seems high for making 3 connections - 4 if you count the vent.
I can see why Sharkbite sells installation kits with the inlet valve for $50.00.

 

[JohnRippert]

Ours cost us $1300 but they had to bring everything up to code because the previous tank lasted 35 years, gas heater. New one need a different set of water lines, a new natural gas line and valve, a catch basin to lift it off the floor and a drain from the basin to outside the house. I still thought it was highway robbery, but I guess we got our money's worth.

 

[DWalt]

Pretty simple job if it easily fits in your space so you have room to work. I have replaced two of them without problems. Probably is a how-to video on YouTube. Getting rid of the old one may be a problem. If you DIY, you do not need to worry about codes. Best if you have a helper. The big box stores sell water heaters.

If you have a line pressure regulator or a backflow preventer on your supply entry line, you should probably install a thermal expansion chamber. If you do not, it is unnecessary.

I checked. There are numerous YouTube videos on the topic.

I think plumbers love to install water heaters. Gives them many opportunities to jack up the price.

 

[wood714]

I don't understand the expansion tank thing. Does it replace the pressure-relief valve?

I don't have a expansion tank now, and when I replace my water heater, I seriously doubt I'll add one.

 

[Bald1]

Yeah those are crazy prices. But, I happen to know a plumber that lives and works mostly in NJ. He won’t take a job that’s under $1500. His Cost are high and demand for services are equally high. It partially goes back to good old fashioned inflation.

 

[Nevada Ed]

It has to do with county safty measures and codes.

$1,600 to $2,000 plus for a plumber and two hours work
with the paper work for your insurance company or city inspector.

If you "Snake" it in,
$50 worth of parts with an un-authorized , un-licensed worker.

Just don't let it burn the house down,
and try to collect the insurance money.

 

[Ματθιας]

When I had to replace my water heater, $1000-1500 was the price for a professional install. $550 was my cash price to a handy man - disposal included.

 

[Greyman50]

Most “ places” with codes require one to use a plumber. By chance there is an inspection involved you have to get a plumber. Some “ places “ require one to get a permit to replace a water heater. Have know those to ignore the permit thing and the ptb never knew. The expansion tank is overkill as all hot water heaters have a Relief Valve, just more BS.

 

[Jeff423]

It has to do with county safty measures and codes.

$1,600 to $2,000 plus for a plumber and two hours work
with the paper work for your insurance company or city inspector.

If you "Snake" it in,
$50 worth of parts with an un-authorized , un-licensed worker.

Just don't let it burn the house down,
and try to collect the insurance money.

We don't have any of those requirements here. No permits, inspections or other paperwork. Maybe when I sell the place. When I sold my last house I had to add an expansion tank but that was all.

 

[DWalt]

I don't understand the expansion tank thing. Does it replace the pressure-relief valve?

I don't have a expansion tank now, and when I replace my water heater, I seriously doubt I'll add one.

Pretty simple. It is a sealed bladder inside a tank which is tied into your supply line. It can be anywhere but usually at the water heater. When the water tank heats up, the water inside expands. If there is no BFP or pressure regulator in your supply line, the expansion just goes into the main. If your line has a BFP or a pressure tegulator, your house plumbing becomes a closed system, and there is nowhere for the expansion to go. So it can greatly increase the water pressure in your pipes, possibly causing a rupture somewhere. If there is an expansion tank in the system, it provides volume for water expansion and keeps the pressure down. The tank usually has a volume of a couple of gallons. Some cities require them under code, some do not. Often, plumbers try to make you believe you need one when you really don't so they can inflate the charge. Happened to a friend who fell for the plumber's line of BS. Cost him around $500.

The relief valve is part of every water heater, but it serves a different purpose than an expansion tank. It is set at a fairly high release pressure to bleed off high pressures which could occur if the tank heater goes rogue and won't shut off at the selected temperature. And that allows your water heater to turn into a steam boiler and explodes if there is no relief valve. That can cause catastrophic damage to your home.

 

[glenwolde]

Well I probably have the most costly install of the group. It was $2800. I was glad to pay for it.

Most costs were related to access. It's in the attic. Of a townhouse. So basically third floor. Had to go over the air handler. A couple of hundred was for permits. New exterior drain line, the vent was out of code....you name it.

Took three guys damn near all day. It hadn't failed but it was 18 years old and at times I will fix things that ain't broke just to do it when the weather is nice (Houston) and before it fails at the worst moment or causes damage when it does so.

Next up is the AC. Once it cools off. It's old as hell too.

Our last house the water heater was in the garage and you could back a truck right up to it. It took maybe half an hour to replace. I did that myself. Not this one. A man needs to know his limitations.

 

[DWalt]

Well I probably have the most costly install of the group. It was $2800. I was glad to pay for it.

Most costs were related to access. It's in the attic. Of a townhouse. So basically third floor. Had to go over the air handler. A couple of hundred was for permits. New exterior drain line, the vent was out of code....you name it.

Took three guys damn near all day. It hadn't failed but it was 18 years old and at times I will fix things that ain't broke just to do it when the weather is nice (Houston) and before it fails at the worst moment or causes damage when it does so.

Next up is the AC. Once it cools off. It's old as hell too.

Our last house the water heater was in the garage and you could back a truck right up to it. It took maybe half an hour to replace. I did that myself. Not this one. A man needs to know his limitations.

Water heaters in an attic are a different story. I would probably bite the bullet and hire someone to do that replacement job. The last water heater I helped replace (not my house) was in the garage and it was a quick job as there was such easy access to it.

If I were building a house, the very last place I would put the water heater is in the attic. At worst, a disaster waiting to happen. But I know several friends who have them there. I did help a friend do some pipe plumbing on his heater in the attic due to a leak, but it did not involve replacing the heater itself.

 

[llowry61]

Last time ours went out, I replaced it in about an hour. Took more time go pick it up and get it back to the house than the install. When we built the house, I had the plumber put in flexible pipe and ball valve shutoffs instead of plumbing it in tight.

I bought one that was the exact same dimensions as the old unit so pretty simple. Walkout basement with easy access for bringing the new one in and taking the old one out.

The gas line did not line up exactly so a small section of flexible gas line was installed and off to the races.

Pricing for any home repair is through the roof if you can even get someone to do it.

 

[DWalt]

Yes, it is a simple job if you have room to maneuver. I also put shutoff ball valves on the water input lines and used flexible attachment lines. I have seen water heaters plumbed in hard without valves, can't understand why anyone would ever want to do that.

I am also an expert in acidizing scaled-up water heaters, have done that maybe 10 times over the years, three of them in my current home. The worst one I ever saw was a neighbor's, which was completely full of scale. It was difficult but I rescued it. Best way of minimizing scale deposition is to set the water temperature dial to the lowest temperature you can live with comfortably, if you happen to have a high hardness water source. More of a problem with electric than gas fired heaters.

 

[DEF3]

I own a small plumbing business myself. You would be surprised how a shoebox full of fittings can cost 500 or so.

 

[Revoman]

I just had one done a month ago $750.00 for the heater and parts. $200.00 to install it.

 

[SMSgt]

It has to do with county safty measures and codes.

$1,600 to $2,000 plus for a plumber and two hours work
with the paper work for your insurance company or city inspector.

If you "Snake" it in,
$50 worth of parts with an un-authorized , un-licensed worker.

Just don't let it burn the house down,
and try to collect the insurance money.

Here the inspector doesn't even come to the house. The plumbers and electricians or whomever emails photos of the work done and the inspector emails a signed permit back. My water heater was anywhere near the OP's quotes when I replaced mine about 4-5 years ago. Sounds like some good ole gouging going on.

 

[cherrypointmarine]

Luckily our power company has a water heater plan . For $2.50 a month they will come out and fix your hot water heater and if they can't they replace it .

They also have an inside wiring program . I decided to have a hook up for my generator at the main power box . That wasn't included but I get a 15% discount using the company that does the work for the program . At least now if something happens I'll just point my finger at them and say they did the work .

 

[llowry61]

Yes, it is a simple job if you have room to maneuver. I also put shutoff ball valves on the water input line and used flexible attachment lines. I have seen water heaters plumbed in hard without valves, can't understand why anyone would ever want to do that.

I am also an expert in acidizing scaled-up water heaters, have done that maybe 10 times over the years. The worst one I ever saw was a neighbor's, which was completely full of scale. It was difficult but I rescued it. Best way of minimizing scale deposition is to set the water temperature dial to the lowest temperature you can live with comfortably, if you happen to have a high hardness water source. More of a problem with electric than gas fired heaters.

We did 2 additional installs when we built. We put in a water softener even though we are on city water, and we had a pressure reduction valve installed since water pressure was high.

I also change the rod in the center (can't recall the name of it) but that is supposed to help as well. I should drain it more often but the cheap valves they put in them always end up leaking, so I just leave it at that.

 

[DWalt]

I just had one done a month ago $750.00 for the heater and parts. $200.00 to install it.

That's about what I'd expect to be a fair cost if there are no complicating factors.