Water heater installation cost

Early this year spied a tiny bit of wetness on the laundry room floor and I knew right away it was the water heater.
Went to Lowes, $600, wife and I replaced it, purged the lines, and good to go in 2 hours. I did have to cut and solder the pressure dump line for a perfect fit. 5 min trip to landfill to dump the old one. Oh and I used a catch pan this time around. 42 years here and this is the 3rd one.

My experience of over 50 years and three heater incidents is the same. Not catastrophic tank dump failure but noticing wetness on the floor. Aside from a pipe in the attic freezing and bursting during the great Texas freeze three years ago, the greatest water damage we have experienced was due the failure of a water hose going to the washing machine. ALWAYS use only braided steel covered hoses for your washing machine water connections.
 
My experience of over 50 years and three heater incidents is the same. Not catastrophic tank dump failure but noticing wetness on the floor. Aside from a pipe in the attic freezing and bursting during the great Texas freeze three years ago, the greatest water damage we have experienced was due the failure of a water hose going to the washing machine. ALWAYS use only braided steel covered hoses for your washing machine water connections.

Amen to that. I read somewhere that the biggest cause of insurance water damage claims comes from washing machine supply hoses bursting. A lady I worked with had her cold water line burst while she was on vacation. She came home and water was flowing out under the front door and waterfalling down the brick steps. The laundry was upstairs. Most of the downstairs ceiling was down and everything was soaked. They had to gut most of the ground floor.

After that my wife started turning off the water at the machine if we're gone for any amount of time. That and the stainless braided hoses. They only cost $10 a set more. We also zip-tie the drain hose to a faucet so it can't fall out.
 
We've lived in this 20-year-old +/- condo for 12 years this September. I saw a puddle of water on the floor at the water heater end of the Laundry Room about 2.5 months ago. Since it wasn't continuous and on bare concrete, I wasn't in a rush. I went nuts trying to find the source. Turns out it's from the Front Load Whirlpool washer that we bought just after we moved in. There are some retired appliance repair men at my church, I ask if they wanted to repair it, and if not, who would they recommend. No takers but, they recommended the same guy in Columbus (That in itself is pretty high praise!). One of them told me the most common leak problem is the series of over lapping gaskets around the door. Sometimes they fold over on themselves and sometimes they tear a hole in themselves or each other. It wasn't a priority and I let it slide until after family trips and vacations were over.

The past two laundry days, not any water on the floor, so the offending gasket must have unfolded itself. But I'm keeping an eye on the 20-year-old gas water heater and 12-year-old Front load washer!

Thousands of water heater replacements showed me a few observations. 1) the vast majority of catastrophic failures were the day after a hard rain. I think I figured out why. First, the atmospheric pressure falls when there is a storm, and the tank has less pressure on the outside supporting it. Second when it rains, lawn watering comes to a stop for a day or two, and car washes almost come to a standstill. This allows water reserves to build up in the water towers, therefore raising line pressure.

2) In my complex of 140 apartments, when one tank let go, two more would quickly follow. Either that day or the next. So, I didn't bother to pick up just one tank. I usually bought three, but if there was a special price I would buy up to 5. (we were going to use them sooner more likely than latter.

3) Dielectric fittings don't work in the long run. They may isolate the tank at first, but the mineral build up allows the current to pass. So, I never wasted money on those expensive and pain to install fittings. Besides, most modern tanks have them factory installed now.

Tank inlet/outlet fitting come in 2 sizes 1/2 and 3/4. They could be threaded pipe or soldier tube fitting AND they could be male or female. I kept a bucket of fittings well stocked right next to my torch. For problems there are Shark-bites or compression fittings at 1/3 the Shark-bite price.

I found that flexible water connection lines were doomed to a quick failure, unless they had the braided stainless-steel sheath. The gas hook ups need to be the coated flexible stainless or black pipe. (Fire code now most places.)

If the cost of doing business wasn't so expensive, I'd open one that all I did would do is replace hot water tanks! You can easily do two a day that are far across town a day and three or four that are close. If in a business, accept no cash or checks. Credit and Debit cards only! (approved in advance!)

As of 10 years ago, tank disposal was simple: Call one of the guys that hauls scrap metal. If they aren't busy, they will help you get the old tank out of the basement and usually the new tank in.

Clogged drain valves: The Control valve on gas and the screw in electric elements are all on 1 1/4" pipe threads. My parts bucket had an adapter I made for a few dollars! I had 3' wash machine and 20' and 30' garden hoses to drain tanks.

Ivan
 
BFP=backflow preventer=anti-backflow valve. I have no idea how many municipal systems require BFPs on hookups to the water system, but those that do probably have the requirement only for new residential construction. Many water utilities require BFPs to be part of new lawn irrigation systems. Line pressure regulators also are effectively BFPs.

Be really careful with backflow preventers one failed and flooded my brand new house right before we moved in. It was in the hw tank closet in the garage and water started gushing out from underneath the cap at night and the garage was six inches lower than the house floor, water went through a water pipe hole in the sheet rock. Nearly the whole downstairs was flooded! Found out they make a drip proof back flow preventer that's about $20 more expensive should have prevented that.
 
We've lived in this 20-year-old +/- condo for 12 years this September. I saw a puddle of water on the floor at the water heater end of the Laundry Room about 2.5 months ago. Since it wasn't continuous and on bare concrete, I wasn't in a rush. I went nuts trying to find the source. Turns out it's from the Front Load Whirlpool washer that we bought just after we moved in. There are some retired appliance repair men at my church, I ask if they wanted to repair it, and if not, who would they recommend. No takers but, they recommended the same guy in Columbus (That in itself is pretty high praise!). One of them told me the most common leak problem is the series of over lapping gaskets around the door. Sometimes they fold over on themselves and sometimes they tear a hole in themselves or each other. It wasn't a priority and I let it slide until after family trips and vacations were over.

The past two laundry days, not any water on the floor, so the offending gasket must have unfolded itself. But I'm keeping an eye on the 20-year-old gas water heater and 12-year-old Front load washer!

Thousands of water heater replacements showed me a few observations. 1) the vast majority of catastrophic failures were the day after a hard rain. I think I figured out why. First, the atmospheric pressure falls when there is a storm, and the tank has less pressure on the outside supporting it. Second when it rains, lawn watering comes to a stop for a day or two, and car washes almost come to a standstill. This allows water reserves to build up in the water towers, therefore raising line pressure.

2) In my complex of 140 apartments, when one tank let go, two more would quickly follow. Either that day or the next. So, I didn't bother to pick up just one tank. I usually bought three, but if there was a special price I would buy up to 5. (we were going to use them sooner more likely than latter.

3) Dielectric fittings don't work in the long run. They may isolate the tank at first, but the mineral build up allows the current to pass. So, I never wasted money on those expensive and pain to install fittings. Besides, most modern tanks have them factory installed now.

Tank inlet/outlet fitting come in 2 sizes 1/2 and 3/4. They could be threaded pipe or soldier tube fitting AND they could be male or female. I kept a bucket of fittings well stocked right next to my torch. For problems there are Shark-bites or compression fittings at 1/3 the Shark-bite price.

I found that flexible water connection lines were doomed to a quick failure, unless they had the braided stainless-steel sheath. The gas hook ups need to be the coated flexible stainless or black pipe. (Fire code now most places.)

If the cost of doing business wasn't so expensive, I'd open one that all I did would do is replace hot water tanks! You can easily do two a day that are far across town a day and three or four that are close. If in a business, accept no cash or checks. Credit and Debit cards only! (approved in advance!)

As of 10 years ago, tank disposal was simple: Call one of the guys that hauls scrap metal. If they aren't busy, they will help you get the old tank out of the basement and usually the new tank in.

Clogged drain valves: The Control valve on gas and the screw in electric elements are all on 1 1/4" pipe threads. My parts bucket had an adapter I made for a few dollars! I had 3' wash machine and 20' and 30' garden hoses to drain tanks.

Ivan

Went to work for a plumber as an apprentice in 78. His shop also did tin work, heating and minor electrical work. He would pull the tin and insulation off a water heater, cut electrics in half to sell as sheep feeders and the only real junk was elements and controls.
 
After two failures in 5 years I went with a tankless heater and never looked back. Coming up of 15 years with the tankless and still going strong.

Unlimited hot water is nice too- especially with multiple daughters.
 
The expansion tank is not just something for a plumber to tack on another $500 to your bill. Also, as mentioned, it has a rubber bladder. Rubber leaks sooner or later, making the expansion tank useless. Don't bitch about the price of a new heater if you don't know how to solder. Any home owner should know how to solder, one of the easiest chores you can do, and know basic electricity. Another simple task. Take a class if you need to for both. Don't wait for the hottest day of the year to call HVACR services and say, " Well, it hasn't been working very well so I thought I better call now." You deserve a left hook to your jaw, but the price just went up $1000. If the furnace and water heater are in the attic, buy another house or pay to have them relocated. For tankless heaters, have the installation include the piping for chemical cleaning of the heat exchanger. I was doing some minor electrical work at a friend's house with knob & tube wiring. He actually asked me, "can't you just run new wiring upstairs?" Dead serious. I walked out.
 
Dang it!
Reading this thread cursed me.
My wife called me at work yesterday and her first words were "How's your day going?", ever a good thing.
Our water heater sprung a leak.
I'll DIY it, around $600.
Luckily it's easily accessed.
 
Last edited:

Latest posts

Back
Top