Crazy K38
Member
it is a 1985 chevy s-10 I paid $200 for, all it needs is 2 freeze plugs and a battery, coincidentally batteries are on sale for $50 at carquest but does anyone know how to tell which freeze plugs are bad and how to get em out? 
well I finally got a truck
- Thread starter Crazy K38
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
Bassamatic
US Veteran
Your question puzzles me because if the plugs are not leaking, you don't need to replace them. Obviously you need to drain the engine and then just pound them carefully INTO the block...they won't go far. Then, get some needle nose pliers and pull them out sidewize. Be careful not to damage or chip the area on the block directly around the plug.
When you replace them (and you might just as well replace them all) be sure to use brass plugs, a little more expensive, but they won't rust. Use some permatex sealer on each plug and then gently tap them back in.
The problem is not replacing them, it's getting TO some of them.
Good luck and congrats on the new truck.
When you replace them (and you might just as well replace them all) be sure to use brass plugs, a little more expensive, but they won't rust. Use some permatex sealer on each plug and then gently tap them back in.
The problem is not replacing them, it's getting TO some of them.
Good luck and congrats on the new truck.
DeathGrip
US Veteran
Most likely the plugs between the engine and transmission or the back of the head/s or the ones under the engine mount/s. Thats just what to expect on a 200 dollar truck. Also expect that the rest of the cooling system has issues{radiator,heatercore,water pump etc.} I.m wishing you the best just weigh your options.
Last edited:
krissylou
Member
How do you know that it needs 2 new freezer plugs if you don't know which ones they are? Are you sure that it doesn't have a cracked head or block?
There is a reason that freezer plugs leak and need to be replaced and it usually has to do with the water in the engine freezing and causing the plugs to blow out and possibly cause damage to either the head or block.
There is a reason that freezer plugs leak and need to be replaced and it usually has to do with the water in the engine freezing and causing the plugs to blow out and possibly cause damage to either the head or block.
Yup, either that or they just get corroded from age and start leaking. Like somebody else said...the hard part is getting access to them. The ones that are leaking will be the ones in the tightest spot...unless you're VERY lucky.
DeathGrip
US Veteran
Welcome Krissylou
The reason is neglect. Antifreeze in the north causes plugs to blow out,or should I say lack of. Southern climates its usually corosion from not changing coolant as it has anticorosion additives.
The reason is neglect. Antifreeze in the north causes plugs to blow out,or should I say lack of. Southern climates its usually corosion from not changing coolant as it has anticorosion additives.
feralmerril
Absent Comrade
Years ago I had a 1972 ford pickup that blew one behind and low on the engine. I ended up puting a hole in the floor board to get to it.
Right...too much water in the coolant can make it freeze, which "pushes" the plugs out...THIS IS WHAT THEY'RE DESIGNED TO DO!!!! If you didn't have freeze plugs, MORE SERIOUS damage would occur when the freezing water expands.
Deathgrip,
They rot out in the north too...I know from experience...changed them several times in nice weather for that reason (leaking, rotted out).
Gordy
bayfisher
US Veteran
The first thing to do is, Get the truck up on a lift or ramps if at home.
Next is, fill your radiator with water. if you can't see any visible leaks, you will then need a cooling system pressure tester. If you have any mechanic friends or family? some one is sure to have one.
With pressure pumped into the system, a pinhole leak in any of the freeze plugs will become evident. On the other hand, if you continue to lose pressure with no external leaks, You can look at the head/headgasket as the problem.
Hoping for good luck as far as just being freeze plugs. but be prepared for them being in the hardest locations.
What motor/drivetrain is in it?
Next is, fill your radiator with water. if you can't see any visible leaks, you will then need a cooling system pressure tester. If you have any mechanic friends or family? some one is sure to have one.
With pressure pumped into the system, a pinhole leak in any of the freeze plugs will become evident. On the other hand, if you continue to lose pressure with no external leaks, You can look at the head/headgasket as the problem.
Hoping for good luck as far as just being freeze plugs. but be prepared for them being in the hardest locations.
What motor/drivetrain is in it?
OP
Crazy K38
Member
I believe it has a 4.3L and I know one is on the side of the block and one is by the starter, so i am going to have fun with this,lol, but like my location says I am in alabama, and the water pump went out in it so they were just pouring water in it and making short trips then they replaced the water pump and thats when the second plug went out. It never really gets cold enough to freeze a puddle much less a motor so I am hoping for the best
Get ready to hate life! I have the knowledge and proper tools and they're still a pain. I typically use a long prybar to knock them sideways into the hole then pull them out with plyers. The trick is getting the new ones in. There's a special tool made to install them but with a socket that fits just inside the plug, a hammer, busted knuckles, a lot of cussing, time, more cussing, another plug because you screwed the 1st one up, maybe a 3/8" extension with a wobble adapter, more time, lunch break, some more hammering and you might have the 1st one in. Ok, time for the 2nd one.
OP
Crazy K38
Member
well the knuckle busting and cussing are friends of mine, when I replaced the alternator in my 01 cougar we REALLY got to know each other but I think I know a guy i can get to help with no charge. by the way when in the h*** did ford decide to put alternators UNDER engines? I had to take off the tire just to SEE IT and talk about no room to work! but I seem to be jacking my own thread but back to subject I think I am going to have a VERY full day tommorow
DeathGrip
US Veteran
Agreed Gordy,I've seen northern cars rot from the inside as well. Try this, Take your volt meter and ground it then probe to the coolant and see. It don't take long for even new coolant to show electrolysis. This is more prevolant in newer cars due to dissimilar metals.
bayfisher
US Veteran
Well the one by the starter will be the easiest. Since it's a 4.3 your going to have a lot less room to remove your batt cable and starter signal wires from the solenoid than a V-8, also less room to manuever the starter to remove it. but once it is out that will be one of the easier plugs. As 2LoudforU said, You need to drive one edge of the plug in with a prybar or screwdriver(I prefer to use a pair of channellocks to pull the old plug out.) I then size a deep wall impact socket to the inside of the new plug,Wipe some permatex around the sealing areas of the plug and genyly drive it in without going too deep to restrict any water flow around the cylinders. If one of the plugs are under the motor mount bracket on the block? Then you will need to pull your fan shroud loose and possibly remove your dist cap to keep from cracking it when you jack the motor up off the mounts. At that point I would advise you to do both sides of the motor while you have it up.
Thats where you will need the special tools spoken of. The front frame crossmember does not allow you all the room you have on the rear freeze plugs
Or you could just use the rubber expansion type plugs under the motor mount brackets. How much money effort and work do you want to put into a 200$ truck??
Thats where you will need the special tools spoken of. The front frame crossmember does not allow you all the room you have on the rear freeze plugs
Or you could just use the rubber expansion type plugs under the motor mount brackets. How much money effort and work do you want to put into a 200$ truck??
OP
Crazy K38
Member
a lot it is gonna last for a while
bayfisher
US Veteran
All right, If the engine is solid, replace all the lower plugs while you are under it. also check all the coolant hoses,radiator hoses and heater hoses.
Look for any obvious swelling or rot in the hoses and give it the squeeze test to feel for any inside cracking and hardening of the hoses. I didn't mean any insult over the price because i had a guy pull in yesterday with an early 90s chevy car he had only paid a 100$ for. Motor was running fine with the exception of his motor mounts transfering all the vibrations into the body He drove over 150 miles to come down here for the 4th and he will most likely be able to drive back up to east tex when it's over.
Good luck, and it's great to see a fellow member get a good old vehicle for a price like that. and in the worst case, if it only lasts for a year or two, you got a hell of a deal
Look for any obvious swelling or rot in the hoses and give it the squeeze test to feel for any inside cracking and hardening of the hoses. I didn't mean any insult over the price because i had a guy pull in yesterday with an early 90s chevy car he had only paid a 100$ for. Motor was running fine with the exception of his motor mounts transfering all the vibrations into the body He drove over 150 miles to come down here for the 4th and he will most likely be able to drive back up to east tex when it's over.
Good luck, and it's great to see a fellow member get a good old vehicle for a price like that. and in the worst case, if it only lasts for a year or two, you got a hell of a deal
OP
Crazy K38
Member
well my dad is a master mechanic so anything that happens to it I can have my dad come visitfro texas and save my poor ass, lol, but I am getting the battery and it tommorow and l'll replace the old ones then and HOPEFULLY have her running, but she is a good one just needs some lovin
84CJ
US Veteran
I have a motor in an 85 S10 if you need one. Gets about 5 miles to the gallon with the DANA 60 with 456 gears and detroit locker.
Now, it can get pretty cold down Bama way. I was living in Bessemer in the early '80s and the temp got down to -5 F. Brrrr!
How are things in Tallapoosa County? I lived in Camp Hill for a while after graduating from Auburn.
How are things in Tallapoosa County? I lived in Camp Hill for a while after graduating from Auburn.
OP
Crazy K38
Member
it still sucks muley, unemployment is WAY up but I think I found a decent job paying +8.00 an hour
Similar threads
- Locked
