what could cause the cylinder to hit the back of the gun?

snubb

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Hello again forum, 1st thanks for all of you who help on a regular basis, it is much appreciated!
Mt question is on my 360, when the cylinder is open to expel my empty shells, the cylinder actually moves so far back that it hit the back of the gun (dont know the name). it moves so much that it has removed some material. It actualy does not spin freely if I tilt the gun upward slightly. (the cylinder moves back sufficently enough to rub). I have posted a photoshop picture to help show where material is removed (including the finnish). Thanks for all your help.
 

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Greetings. This should not happen at any time.
Call Smith and Wesson customer service tomorrow and tell them all info.
They will send you a shipping label and you will send them the gun
for repair.
Do not shoot or carry it until it is repaired.

Let us know how this turns out.

Good luck.

Allen Frame
 
Allen, not trying to argue with you but I think he's talking about the cylinder stop and it's supposed to do that. All my Smith revolvers have a little play in the opened cylinder and most contact the cylinder stop, particularly when you eject brass.

If the OP is about something else...well, I missed it. Sounds like the gun is normal to me.

Dave
 
Dave , As per the o.p.

" when the cylinder is open to expel my empty shells, the cylinder actually moves so far back that it hit the back of the gun (dont know the name). it moves so much that it has removed some material. It actualy does not spin freely if I tilt the gun upward slightly. (the cylinder moves back sufficently enough to rub). I have posted a photoshop picture to help show where material is removed (including the finnish). Thanks for all your help.


Cylinder binding and finish and material removed. Red flags to me.

Be cool
Allen Frame
 
With the yoke open, the cylinder stop is the only thing preventing the cylinder and ejector rod assembly from falling out of the gun. If you tilt the barrel up, the cylinder will slide back and hit the stop. To prevent this, don't tilt the barrel up with the yoke open.
 
Cylinder binding and finish and material removed. Red flags to me.

I took that as snubb not being familiar with the shape of the cylinder stop and the finish marred by habitual ejection with the muzzle up.

Hope snubb gets his question answered to his satisfaction, one way or the other.

Dave
 
Man, if you guys can tell that from that tiny picture you have better eye sight than I do, with or without my glasses. I'm out'a this one from here on.

Dave
 
thanks guys

The picture I posted was a photoshop rendition, I may have over painted on top of the back stop(lug). I didn't know that the cylinder would fall off if it did not hit the back lug of the gun. My cylinder is not overriding the back lug as of yet. However, Since I have a steel cylinder, everytime it hits the back lug it removes some material from the softer scandium/aluminum alloy. The once black finnish is now indented bare metal (scandium/aluminum alloy). This only happened after 100 rounds at the range. Although I checked my other revolvers and as you all have pointed out, the cylinders do hit the back lug, but there is no material taken away yet.
I surmise that this is the result of a steel cylinder (which has no damage) vs the alloy.
 
Snubb,

The rib on the frame is referred to as the "frame lug". It's purpose is to hold the cylinder in the gun. It does this by physically blocking the cylinder. As long as the cylinder does not ride over the frame lug everything is as it should be. Painting the top of the frame lug as you did is deceiving.

And don't worry about the comment about "habitually ejecting with the muzzle up" as though there were something wrong with this. This is exactly how you should eject cases, muzzle straight up and briskly push the ejector rod. This helps prevent getting partially burned powder grains under the extractor which can bind the gun up.

Don't worry about a little wear taking the finish off and letting the bare metal show. The black finish on these guns is fairly soft and will show wear fairly quickly.
 
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Snubb,

The rib on the frame is referred to as the "frame lug". It's purpose is to hold the cylinder in the gun. It does this by physically blocking the cylinder. As long as the cylinder does not ride over the frame lug everything is as it should be. Painting the top of the frame lug as you did is deceiving.

And don't worry about the comment about "habitually ejecting with the muzzle up" as though there were something wrong with this. This is exactly how you should eject cases, muzzle straight up and briskly push the ejector rod. This helps prevent getting partially burned powder grains under the extractor which can bind the gun up.

Don't worry about a little wear taking the finish off and letting the bare metal show. The black finish on these guns is fairly soft and will show wear fairly quickly.

Thank you, I got the same answer from S+W, I just can't believe how easy it is to mar this gun.
 
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