What is a Fair Offer for this NIB 38/44 Heavy Duty?

Bullseye 2620

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I've got a line on a Smith & Wesson Heavy Duty, s/n S89xxx
a 5-screw with a 4-inch barrel, unfired and in its original gold and blue box.

What is a fair offer for this gun?


Thanks.



Bullseye

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I sold one about a year and a half ago that was from 1955, in nicer shape without the box for $1100. Hope that helps, I'm sure one of the more knowledgable HD folks will chime in with more precise info.
 
A really fine model of 1950 HD unfired in its box could be a $1500 gun to me, or maybe even a little more. But this one looks like it has some problems on the sideplate and on the left side of the frame under the cylinder. If that's really rust getting a foothold, then I probably would not even bid on it. Someone else might be found who would take it for about $1000.

I hope what I think are blemishes are just tricks of the light. I am sad to see brown or red on a gun that was put away new over half a century ago.
 
Why does that pin stick out so far from the barrel lug? I see that occasionally on S&W's.
 
At the risk of sounding hypocritical (as I've certainly overpaid for guns before), I would offer closer to $800 for that HD. I think that prices have been softening these past few months - at least in my neck of the woods. I saw a Model of 1950 38/44 Outdoorsman in 98% condition recently for a hair under $1,000. This same gun has been for sale at $1,200 for several months with no takers. You can always pony up a higher price if the seller won't move - but why start out at the top end of the value spectrum?

Just my $ .02.

Jerry
 
Mike,
It could be sticking out because the ejector rod is loose and has backed out. This could lead to the cylinder not opening. The sideplate looks like it may be stained and could be nothing once it is cleaned up. With original grips and box and if the sideplate cleans up, I would think it could bring more...however, you could use these areas as bargaining chips. what does the owner want for the gun? Jerry has a good point on starting lower and working up as opposed to starting high. It looks like a real nice gun and if that one spot cleans up, a real good one. Would you send me the full serial number offline for my database?
Hope this helps,
Bill
 
That pin is sticking out because either the extractor rod, or the
yoke, is bent. That is NOT a normal production variation.

Later, Mike Priwer

One other possibility is a center pin that is too long or did not move completely back when the crane was closed. And that might also indicate a stuck bolt. I bought a used M57 that looked really good on the outside but had a center pin problem. Disassembly and cleaning took care of the problem.
 
I don't see a loose extractor rod causing that - the centerpin runs
inside the rod, and is independent of the tightness of the rod.

It is possible that the center-pin is somehow sticky, and not retreating
fully. Its also possible that the barrel lug is not quite centered under
the barrel. I had a K-frame like that once - Charlie Duffy noticed the
problem, and had to reshape the locking pin, to get it seat properly.

Usually, in my experience, its the extractor rod or yoke that is bent.
Its easy enough to check the situation, with the gun in hand. Once
can push the rod-end back and forth just a bit, to see if the locking
pin retreats. If so, the rod or yoke is bent. One can also open and
close the cylinder on each charge hole, looking to see if the pin seats
on some holes, but not others. If that happens, then again its the
rod or yoke that is bent.

If the gun really is unfired, and has been sitting for 50+ years, its
entirely probable that the centerpin is just stuck, and the gun needs
a cleaning.

Later, Mike Priwer
 
I stand corrected re the protruding pin. Where do I find a schematic so that I can see what these terms refer to? I appreciate the guidance.

The seller is asking $1,750, which I know is way too high.

The serial number is S89793.


Bullseye
 
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Where do I find a schematic so that I can see what these terms refer to?
Bullseye

Check the forum FAQ's. Post No. 2 is about the helpful hints brochure, which includes a cutaway drawing. Or you can check out the Numrich or Brownell's website for an exploded drawing -- you just need to work your way to the S&W parts sections.
 
I don't know if it would be in time, but I have the pre war parts manuals and I'd be glad to scan the one for the HD/3d model etc and send it to you. I would have to agree that the price does seem too high.
Hope this helps and thanks for the serial number,
Bill
 
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