What's the best way to clean brass without a machine.

1sailor

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After piecing together my reloading equipment (rather than a kit) I'm getting pretty close to the end of the cash I had set aside. At least for the time being, what's the best way to clean brass without a tumbler. All of my brass is once fired and collected the day it was fired so most of it looks pretty decent.
 
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You can buy a smart reloader tumbler for $40.00 or so. Don't reload without cleaning your brass, you may scratch your dies! Tumbling is the easiest method so people wash/soak brass in dish washing liquid BUT, .......

G
 
cleaning ... no problem white vinegar with a pinch of salt will certainly do a good job of cleaning things up. Polishing without a machine ... nope .. no easy way to do that. machine free polishing is your hands, a pile of rags, some polish and a few hours. Just get a machine. Especially if your dies are not carbide.
 
If you got kids...they're already costing you money, might as well make them work. :)
 
Single Batch: 4 cups hot water, 1 cup white vinegar, 1 tablespoon salt, 1 tablespoon dishwashing liquid. (not soap for dishwashers).

Put brass in a tupperware or bucket with tight fitting lid. Make enough batches of the above solution to cover by at least 3 inches. Soak for 2 hours shake them up for 30- 2 min. secs every 30 minutes.

Drain and rinse at least 3 times. I rinse until I stop getting bubbles from the soap. I put it back in the bucket. cover with water shake and drain. Normally takes me 3 times to stop the soap bubbles. Lay out on newspaper or in cookie trays to dry. make sure none are standing up.

This works great for me. Its not polished but its really clean and thats what you need.
 
I'll post again what works for me, add 2 - 3 tablespoons Citric Acid to 1 quart hot water, add brass, stir, in just a couple of minutes remove and rinse 3X with clean water, dry. Reuse solution if needed. Citric Acid is used in food processing and actually strengthens brass. Available at many local stores or on- line for less then $ 3.00 per pound (bulk). Google Search "brass cleaning - citric acid".
 
I used to live in Southeast Alaska where it rains all the time. The local rifle range was heavily used by people who didn't reload, so I would collect a lot of range pickup brass. Because of the rain, a lot of the brass would have mud or dried mud on it. Obviously the brass had to be cleaned before it could be used. Here is how I recommend cleaning your brass. First, buy yourself a Lee Decapping die and decap all of your brass. After they are decapped put your brass in a plastic bucket, put in a squirt of dishwashing liquid, cover with warm water (I do this in my bathtub so when I splash water out I don't get everything wet) and agitate with your hand to get everything as clean as you can. By the way, you'll notice I said to use a plastic bucket. If you do this with a metal bucket you had better use ear plugs because sloshing brass in a metal bucket is louder than hell! If the mud has a high clay content it may not wash off right away and you may need to soak the brass for awhile. Soak the brass in soapy water as long as you need to in order to get it clean. Dump the dirty water off the brass and refill with clean water. Keep doing this until the water comes out clean and the soap is all rinsed out. I have a big plastic pan that looks like a gold pan with holes in the bottom. I use that to drain the brass. You can use a heavily constructed collander too. Try to get as much water out of the brass that you can. Once drained, lay out a couple of bath towels on the floor. Dump the brass onto the bath towels and spread the brass to one layer with as much room between the cases as you can. Set a fan to blow across the brass. Depending on the temperature and humidity it may take two hours to two days for the brass to dry. Roll the brass around on the towels every so often to help the brass dry. Decapping the brass makes the brass much easier to wash and dry. If you don't decap the brass first it may never dry because water WILL go through the flash hole into the primer!

Be sure to use a special decapping die for removing the primers. Most die sets have the decapping setup in the sizing die. You don't want to use such a die for decapping your brass even if you set the decapping rod such that the cases aren't being resized when you decap them. No matter how hard you try, dirt and grit will get in the die and scratch the resizing die. This will cause your die to scratch and ruin every case you put in it. After you are done decapping your dirty brass, clean the die and your press well. You want to remove any grit that gets on your press, especially that which gets on the ram or in any of the hinges. Grit in these places will cause premature wear on your press which will eventually cause misalignment of the ram making it impossible to load accurate ammunition. I clean the decapping die and press by hosing everything out with lots of WD40, then following with something like Gun Scrubber or brake cleaner. After it is clean I relube the press with Break Free CLP or a good grease. (I still haven't decided if I prefer Break Free CLP or grease on the ram.) I will also put a light coat of oil on the decapping die too, and wipe off the excess. Sometimes I will use spray silicone on the decapping die to protect it.

I hope this helps.

Whelenshooter
 
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Single Batch: 4 cups hot water, 1 cup white vinegar, 1 tablespoon salt, 1 tablespoon dishwashing liquid. (not soap for dishwashers).

Put brass in a tupperware or bucket with tight fitting lid. Make enough batches of the above solution to cover by at least 3 inches. Soak for 2 hours shake them up for 30- 2 min. secs every 30 minutes.

Drain and rinse at least 3 times. I rinse until I stop getting bubbles from the soap. I put it back in the bucket. cover with water shake and drain. Normally takes me 3 times to stop the soap bubbles. Lay out on newspaper or in cookie trays to dry. make sure none are standing up.

This works great for me. Its not polished but its really clean and thats what you need.

I use this method for range brass. Works great, I use a 5 gal bucket and rinse three times with the hose. Here in Florida I leave it on the driveway and it dries quickly.

You can save the solution and use it several times.
 
Vinegar in the solution cleans well but the brass will quickly tarnish. Citric acid is the best acid for brass cleaning because a mild (3-4%) citric acid wash will not weaken brass even with extended soaking but it leaves brass bright (not polished though) and resistant to tarnishing. The whole brass polishing thing is really mostly feel-good therapy for uptight handloaders. Wash the stuff by sloshing it in soapy/water , drain it as best you can and spread it on a cookie sheet and pop it in a LOW temperature oven (200 degrees) for a while. Size and load. Shiny does nothing for performance.
 
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If you have only a few pieces of brass that you plan on loading, then you can try what I did. I used to take a small wooden dowel close to the size needed to fit into the brass and used 0000 steel wool just lightly over the brass to clean them up. In only a few minutes I would have quite a few done. This was before I bought my Lyman tumbler and when I was reloading using a Lee Loader than a Hand Press.
 
Wash them in hot water with a few tablespoons of Bar Keeper's Friend mixed in. Contains a mild acid that cleans brass in a couple of minutes.

bkf.jpg


Afterwards:

brass.jpg
 
I have learned a bit here. I have tried the vinegar/salt which cleaned about the same as my standard Lemishine/Dawn wash. Vinegar/salt was a bit duller in appearance. Thanks Taroman for the tip on Barkeepers Friend! I will have to try that next. I do use the universal decapping die first. Treeman I didn't realize that the vinegar/salt wash tarnished rapidly. Thanks for the tip. After my standard Lemishine/Dawn wash then I get anal. I use lizard bedding (ground walnut) in my Lyman Turbo 1200 for about 1 hr. Then I switch to bird litter (corn cob) with a squirt of NuFinsh for 1 hr. Cases are better than factory. No oxidation...
 
A Dillon vibrator brass cleaner is well worth the money in the long run, IMHO.
 
Vinegar in the solution cleans well but the brass will quickly tarnish. Citric acid is the best acid for brass cleaning because a mild (3-4%) citric acid wash will not weaken brass even with extended soaking but it leaves brass bright (not polished though) and resistant to tarnishing. The whole brass polishing thing is really mostly feel-good therapy for uptight handloaders. Wash the stuff by sloshing it in soapy/water , drain it as best you can and spread it on a cookie sheet and pop it in a LOW temperature oven (200 degrees) for a while. Size and load. Shiny does nothing for performance.

Treeman is right. You need your brass clean so you don't get grit in your dies, but shiny is irrelevant. I don't care if my brass is shiny. I just want it clean enough that I can load it without hurting anything.

Whelenshooter
 
This is great. I love when I ask a question and get multiple good answers. I have a few days before my equipment arrives and hundreds of empty cases so maybe I'll experiment. Thanks again.
 
I have heard people just putting their brass in a though bag, maybe made by a pair of used jeans or something and then just simply putting it in the washing machine
 
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