Which .357?

[bottlerocket]

So I've been lurking here a while doing searches everywhere and so much of this is just cryptic as hell with all the numbers, frame codes, dashes etc. Its damn near impossible to figure out whats good and what isn't.

I have at least narrowed it down to a .357 mag in a 4" or greater barrel. The 686 caught my eye but I'm sure there are other options out there for this caliber. What other models should I keep an eye out for? I definitely want the firing pin on the hammer still and want a pre-lock gun. I believe I saw around that the 586 is just like the 686 but its a different finish, is this true?

Sorry for all of the rookie questions, I just want to be able to sift through the classifieds/gun show/shop/etc with a bit of knowledge. I found that chart that breaks down every single number and model but even that was a bit daunting. Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

[P&R Fan]

First off welcome aboard.
The M586 is a carbon steel L-Frame revolver in blued or nickle finish. The M686 is exactly the same gun but in stainless steel.
Just try to get a handle on the frame sizes first.
The J-Frame is smallest. It is a 5 shot model I.E. M60, M640, etc.
Then there is the K-Frame I.E. M 19, M66, etc.
Then the aforementioned L-Frames.
Lastly is the large N-Frame, I.E. M27, M28, etc.
It's really not that difficult, especially if you get the Standard Catalog of Smith and Wesson by Jim Supica and Richard Nahas. That's what we all use in looking up serial numbers and dates, but there is a wealth of information there about all things S&W.
Hang on, you're in for a fun ride.
Jim

 

[Snapping Twig]

Always wondered why it's called a different finish when it's a completely different metal.

686 is stainless, 586 is blued steel.

It's my opinion, based on owning several in both metals, that the blue steel revolvers from S&W are finished better - less sharps and roughness, more polished.

Both are great, just a matter of what you like better.

In the L frames, again just my opinion, the 4" balances and packs best. Still has a great line of sight too. Not too long, not too short.

Let us know what you decide.

 

[Decker]

You're right that it can get confusing because there are many model numbers that denote very small changes from one pistol to another.

The big picture is that you should pay attention to the frame designation such as J, K, L, or N.

The frame size, and thus robustness and weight, get larger as you go from one frame size to the next in the order that I listed above.

In J, for example, you have the Model 60, a diminutive revolver most often used for conceal carry or as a kit gun.

The K would include the Model 19 (blue or nickel) or 66 (stainless) and is usually thought to be a great pistol but not to be abused with lots of magnum range time.

The L frame would include the 586 (blue) and 686 (stainless) and can handle any amount of magnum ammo you want to run through it. This would be a good all-around choice for a first revolver in .357.

The N frame would include the Model 27 and 28, identical except for the niceties (the 27 being a "prettier" gun and the 28 often used as a duty weapon).
This is the "heavy duty" frame size, and is also used for .44 Magnum revolvers (the Model 29 being the most ubiquitous).
It's the largest of the frames, and if you intend to do a LOT of shooting hot .357 loads, this is the one built like a tank and will serve you well.

Once you determine which frame size you want, then you get into all the model numbers and features.
Personally, I don't usually pay much attention to the "dash" number in a revolver. Whatever the dash number is simply denotes (usually) minor changes to the design over time, and only collectors care much about the little changes.
Yes, there are some changes that might affect your choice like whether the revolver has recessed chambers (mostly earlier examples of a model) or not (saves on cost of manufacturing, but also has no bearing on operability, either), so if you are looking at a used pistol, it's really easy to do a google and find out which state of changes the model you are looking at includes.

I just hit the high points, but it should be enough to get you started in the right direction.

 

[lazy]

Cryptic, now thats funny. I have been hear a few years, and still get lost.

I have had a 4"686 since the spring of 08, and love it. Since I live in washington, I bought the stainless cause we have a rain festable from Jan1st to Dec 31.

The 586(blued) and 686(stainless) is a L frame gun. An important thing to keep in mind is what are you going to use it for?

 

[TDC]

Try to handle them all to find which model fits your needs the best.... 357 Mags are available in all but the X frame. They all handle differently, balance differently and carry differently. Only you can determine how you want to use it.... The guns below are only examples of the different frame sizes. There are variations with many different finishes, barrel lengths, grips, etc., being available in each frame size to suit every desire... The most apparent visual difference is the cylinder size.

 

[murphydog]

Welcome, again. If you are looking for an all-purpose gun for shooting .357s, a 4" 686 is probably your best choice. Not excessively big or heavy, and rust-resistant. Most of the J frames in this caliber are uncomfortable to shoot with full-power loads; the K frames are better but have durability issues with heavy .357 use and parts are no longer available from the factory. The N frames are great also if you have fairly big hands but are uncommon in stainless if that is a factor.

This all changes if you use .357s occasionally; they all would probably work fine. Best to find friends or a local range that will let you try several models and see which works best for you. Hope this is helpful.

 

[Jeff45]

The 686 is certainly a good .357 choice as others have said. If you want one with the firing pin on the hammer, you will need a 686 no dash, 686-1, -2, -3, or -4. The model number should be on the inside of the cylinder yoke. These early guns through 686-4 still have the forged trigger and hammer, and do not have the lock.

 

[glock_556]

Go with the 4" 686!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[VaRecon]

The 686 is a good model. Though personally I don't care for the full lug under the barrel.
It's k frame cousin, the model 66 is my go-to-gun.
A tad lighter and every bit as accurate in my hands. Only downside is with k frames I've heard is extended magnum usage can weaken the top strap.
For the most fun I've had with the .357 I shoot the 27-2.
Heavy duty N-frame can take all the abuse you can throw at it and still shoot better then I can.

Ps. @ Terry
You always have the best looking toys!

 

[stantheman86]

I always thought the 619 and 620 were close to ideal........no underlug, 7-round capacity, and either fixed or adjustable sights.

Too bad it's nearly impossible to find one.......

 

[J. W.]

JMO, but if a person could own just one revolver a 4" 686 would be it.

 

[glenncal1]

JMO, but if a person could own just one revolver a 4" 686 would be it.

+1 except I would add that if you prefer a blued gun get a 586. If you take reasonable care of either gun, you will be able to pass it down to your kids or grand kids.

 

[son-of-a-gun]

JMO, but if a person could own just one revolver a 4" 686 would be it.

My first and my favorite!

 

[mg357]

I also suggest the s&w model 686 its a nice revolver.

 

[Stainz]

Well, to me - the perfect balance .357M was the 4" K-frame - 19 in blued steel; 66 in SS. My only K-frame .357M is a 6" - the last model made - a 6" 66-6! The 620 was close - but seems to be gone now, too.

Of what is readily available today, my choices were the N-frame 4" 627 Pro for regular range fun and the J-frame 3" 60 Pro for possible carry. Admittedly, I have shot one box of 'real' .357 Magnums in my life - and it was found in a garbage can at the range - with 44 rounds of 158gr JHP Blazers still in the box. I reload - and the majority of my .357M cased ammo is simply .38 Special +P level at most. Still - consider the pair in your choice.

The two above are great values. The 60 Pro came as shown - with the Tritium front Night Sight and wood grips - at a cost less than that of the grips over the most basic 60 model. The 627 Pro has the HiViz front sight added - no tools rewquired - and aftermarket Miculek grips. It does have an 'improved trigger', target barrel, and eased charge entries and is moonclip ready for faster reloads. Eight shots is pretty neat - especially at it's price - ~ a Ben Franklin over that of a 4" 686 six-banger. Something else to consider.

Stainz

 

[Ashlander]

When I first stuck my toe into the .357 revolver pool, I went with old cop trade-ins. They are usually pretty good guns at bargain prices. The first guns I bought were a 4 inch Model 65-3 and then a 3 incher. Good guns. More recently I found a Aussie cop trade-in Model 66-7. These are all K-frame Magnums, which as Murphydog says do fine with Magnum loads -- but maybe not as a steady diet -- I shoot mostly 38 Special with them.

The 66-7 has a lock, but I don't get all nuts up about it -- not at the price I paid.

 

[bottlerocket]

Wow thanks for all the replies! Looks like I was already looking at the right model then.

I personally like the full lug and I'll be shooting a mix of .38 spl and .357 mag, probably a 70/30 mix if I had to put a number to it. It won't be a carry weapon, but more for just range fun or to carry along hunting to possibly take the occasional hog.

 

[CarefulTraveler]

I think the 627 pro would serve you well. Handles 38's very well, and very fun to shoot.

 

[617X10]

You can get a 686 plus if you want 7 rounds....it's only one less than the 8 shot fancy custom shop 627's, and it's a much more reasonable size for a .357 diameter cartridge. The L frame was designed for continuous magnum use and is only marginally larger than the K frame. Of course, if cost is no object the Python also makes a nice choice in .357 Magnum.