Which brass out of a Glock needs a push through die?

Malpasowildlifer

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Is it just .40 S&W brass or do others need it?

I found some 10MM brass with a Glock firing pin mark on the primer the other day that looks like it needs it. Even some of the 9mm I pick looks like it needs it. Hopefully the .45 ACP doesn't. Seems like everyone shoots a Glock around here. Ugh.

Thanks in advance.
 
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I've got a whole bunch of brass on .357 SIG and .40, much of it out of Glocks. None has any visible bulges. Supposedly it was early .40s that had an issue.

Glock does use a slightly oversize chamber, causing cases to expand more than tight chambered guns, but standard resizing takes care of that.
 
Unless someone is shooting hot +P or max effort ammo in a Glock, I do NOT see bulged brass that needs pass thru sizing, any caliber. The 10mm may be an exception with full power loads & some dies. If you use range pickups in 40, then a pass thru sizer is probably good insurance. It is what my buddy uses for his XDM with tighter chamber than a Glock.
 
The 9mm case is actually slightly tapered, not straight walled like most
auto pistol cases. Not sure how a push through die could be used. I
have read articles about 45 acp loading where the author pushed the
brass through a standard die backwards on a rod to speed up sizing.
 
I use RCBS carbide sizer die and a Lee Carbide Factory Crimp Die for all my handgun ammo on my Dillon 550. 90% + of my 9 mm and 40 S&W was range pickup brass fired in Glocks. I have not had a 'Glock bulge' problem. My brass dates back to the early 1990's.
 
As the generations changed, Glock changed the amount of support in the chambers. The newer Gen 3 and all Gen 4 guns do not show the bulged brass that the earlier guns exhibited. .40 was the worst example.

Unless you are seeing problems at the point of resizing, dont worry about.
 
Looks like this:
original.jpg

Wasted a few $$$ on a Lee "bulge buster" that was totally unnecessary.
 
I run all of my .40 & 10mm range pickups through a Redding push-through die. I don't shoot or scrounge that much 9mm but I've not seen any issues with those or 45 Auto.
 
I use that Redding G-Rx die for all my .40 and .357 cases just to be sure they are all good. If the Lee Bulge Buster had been out first I would have been using that instead.
 
The problem was early Glock Gen1 .40s combined with FC headstamped ammo. Glock tightened up the chambers and Federal went to heavier brass.
With range pickup brass you're on your own.
 
The problem was early Glock Gen1 .40s combined with FC headstamped ammo. Glock tightened up the chambers and Federal went to heavier brass.
With range pickup brass you're on your own.

The Gen2 Glocks were bad about it as well but I have been told starting with the 3rd they had vastly better supported chambers.
 
Copy thanks....sounds like it is just for .40 S&W, 10MM & 357 Sig.

Glock gen 1&2 are the worst, yea I have a gen 2 in 40sw. but I had to guy a push thru die and factory gauge for 40sw, 9mm and 45acp to use gen 1&2 glock'd brass. I got so tried of it I bought a lone wolf g23 barrel that is fully supported and has normal rifling so I can safely fire lead bullets thru it.
Still like it though.
 

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Is it just .40 S&W brass or do others need it?

I found some 10MM brass with a Glcok firing pin mark on the primer the other day that looks like it needs it. Even some of the 9mm I pick looks like it needs it. Hopefully the .45 ACP doesn't. Seems like everyone shoots a Glock around here. Ugh.

Thanks in advance.

Well, where's yours?;) I like my Glock22 Gen3 because it has a tactical rail to make my house gun with laser and flashlight on the rail. It shoots great too.

I process all my 40 S&W brass through a Redding G-Rx. I use a Lee Bulge Buster on 45 ACP brass, which I have found to often need it.

Most of the time though I am fully occupied with my revolvers.
 
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