Wilson spring kit -686

DuneShoot

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I just installed a Wilson spring kit (along with a lock delete) in a new production 686 2.5".
I used the 12# trigger return spring and noticed the main spring is shorter than OEM. See attached photo. The Wilson is installed.

I have the DA trigger adjusted down to just over 6 pounds but have not been able to fire it yet.

I'm in the process of switching over from Winchester to Federal primers to get consistant ignition. I noticed a few 'no fires' on another 686 6" that I had some action work done on. It ran flawless with Win primers before. Also noticed a similar issue on a lever action I had worked on. He suggested using Federal primers with the lighter hammer spring.

Has anyone else installed a similar kit in their revolver and did you have any ignition issues? What weight did you set the DA pull to?

I have another spring kit I was considering installing on a 29-5 I just picked up.
 

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The shorter Wilson spring will help you get a better DA pull mainly because you can run a lighter rebound spring. The short spring is pulling more straight back on the hammer stirrup so it's easier for the rebound slide to go forward. The factory spring makes the hammer push down more on the rebound slide. Definitely use firmly seated Federal primers for any revos with lighter actions.
 
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I like the lighter springs especially in my long range shooters. Have had trouble in past with CCI primers, but only use Federal now. Never had a problem with Federal except finding them in stock.
 
I would be surprised if you will be able to keep it at 6lb. even with Federal primers. I think you will end up at 7 to 7.5lb. for reliability with just a spring change.
 
Every gun is an individual entity. No two will be exactly alike. Still, all of my competition guns are in the 6 - 6.5 lb. DA pull, except for 2. One of them is right at 5 and an experimental prototype starts at 6 and goes down to 2 before the hammer falls, similar to a compound bow.

Oftentimes the right rebound spring can shave off the last pound. A light hammer is usually part of the equation, either a bobbed factory or aftermarket. When running light triggers you have to learn to move the trigger finger both directions, rather than riding the trigger forward on the return.
 
Please refer to Revolver trigger job questions and that will answer all of your questions the way the factory wants it done. The information presented is from the Smith & Wesson Armorers Manual.

Stu

The information is helpful, but is applicable to revolvers with a hammer firing pin. Newer revolvers have no place to hang the weights. Since the hammer is a lever arm, distance from the fulcrum is significant.
 
The information is helpful, but is applicable to revolvers with a hammer firing pin. Newer revolvers have no place to hang the weights. Since the hammer is a lever arm, distance from the fulcrum is significant.


The weight test mentioned in the linked thread in post #3 is meant as a static starting point for evaluation and "regulation" of the mainspring, and applies to the newer design with the frame mounted firing pins as well.

The weight used is not hung from the hammer nose, and is not dependent on a nose being present at all, but is hung on the small cavity on the front of the hammer just above the sear, and below the firing pin impact face.

Remember also what one of our knowledgeable contributors said in a previous post...... tolerances dictate that all these revolvers are individual specimens, and as such, have to be evaluated individually, and configured in a way that is considerate of both the gun's reliability, and fitness for the use desired by the shooter. With respect to this particular armorer's test and evaluation, the baseline consideration is reliability with respect to a duty firearm's use.....and test firing with carry/duty ammunition is the final arbiter with respect to fitness of the firearm for this particular purpose.

Carter
 
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