Wolff recoil springs any better than S&W factory springs?

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I've noticed that Wolff springs tend to be considerably more expensive than S&W springs for the same application. I know S&W springs are very well made, my 639 I've had for years is still all original, but is Wolff an upgrade or is it the choice of tension (power) Wolff offers the difference?
 
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I've noticed that Wolff springs tend to be considerably more expensive than S&W springs for the same application. I know S&W springs are very well made, my 639 I've had for years is still all original, but is Wolff an upgrade or is it the choice of tension (power) Wolff offers the difference?
 
I am curious about this subject myself. I hope someone knowledgeable on the subject answers your question.

I just wonder if a person is not having a problem why would you want or need to change springs?

Hope someone responds to the question.

djh
 
Well, I use Wolff springs in many of my S&W pistols (17 now). I find S&W springs to be very good quality-wise. However, I prefer a recoil spring that is 2 or 3 pounds over the S&W factory, although Wolff makes springs even over that. Of course, I always shoot full power loads with an occasional +P. It is usually a little easier on the frame (less battering) and makes for more postive feeding. However, you want a 100% reliable pistol, too.

Keep in mind that when the factory is designing the pistol it is not necessarily looking for the strongest spring that still allows postitive and reliable functioning. It has many other things to consider, too. The factory does not know exactly what type of ammo is going to be shot in the pistol or whether folks will keep the pistol cleaned and lubed properly. So, it sort of "splits the baby" and goes with what it thinks will perform with all commerically available ammo. In addition, the factory knows that not everyone who will shoot their pistol is 6'5" weighing 260 lbs., like me. Some folks, especially women, might have trouble pulling the slide all the way back with a very powerful spring, even though that particular spring might function well with full power loads and be a little easier on the frame.

If you choose to use S&W recoil springs and change them every three or four thousand rounds, you'll be fine. However, given my circumstances, I prefer the extra power Wolff springs. I have two 3913s, two 6906s, one 6904 and one 669. All of them have a 17# Wolff recoil spring inside (factory is 15#). They all function perfectly and eject the spent cases nicely about 8 feet over.

Now, in those pistols that use the double recoil spring set, like my 4516-1, 4516-2, 4013 and 4014, I use S&W factory spring sets. They are quite adequate, but I go with a suggestion I read somewhere and change the recoil spring set every 1,500 rounds. I mean they are relatively cheap, the factory only charges about $3.70 (2 x $1.85) per set.

As for buying Wolff recoil springs, I suggest you check Midway USA. If you have the dealer discount, they are about $2.00 less per spring than ordering from Wolff direct.

FWIW, good luck.
 
Have not had to replace any recoil springs yet, which is due to the fact I only have a few semiautos that I shoot. When I do, I would buy the Wolff springs. Wolff seems to be the best company in the world when it comes to gun springs.
 
Wolff is an excellent company with a very wide selection of available piano wire springs. In my experience, their springs are no better than factory in the same weight.

Chrome silicon springs are superior to the piano wire springs, but are not available for all guns.
http://www.ismi-gunsprings.com/
 
Originally posted by Denver Dick:
However, I prefer a recoil spring that is 2 or 3 pounds over the S&W factory........ It is usually a little easier on the frame (less battering) and makes for more postive feeding.
FWIW, good luck.

I've never really understood the fascination with heavier recoil springs. Yes, the slide impact at the end of the recoil stroke is reduced, but the slide impact going into battery in increased. Someone once measured the slide loading on a stock 1911 .45 and found the forces around 800 Gs (800 times the force of gravity) in recoil, and 850 Gs going into battery.

There's a whole lot more metal behind the slide stop/takedown lever than there is in front of it. If your frame wears excessively, you can buy another. If the slide assembly departs the pistol at the wrong time, it could have much more serious consequences.

BTW, Wolff supplies springs to a great many factories. You really think they can stay in business selling aftermarket only?
 
WR Moore wrote:
Yes, the slide impact at the end of the recoil stroke is reduced, but the slide impact going into battery in increased.
I think that's true, but some of the incresed energy is expended in stripping the next round into the chamber. Nonetheless, it's one of the reasons that the recoil springs on all my pistols but one are two pounds over. I have one three pounds over on one of my 10mm pistols. Wolff makes them all the way up to seven or more pounds over.

That's interesting about the 1911. All the 1911 pistoleers that I know or read about use a Wolff, Wilson or some other manufacturer's 18.5# recoil spring. As you know the factory standard is 16#. I don't think I've ever heard of a slide assembly departing the pistol, but heck, stranger things have happened.

All that said, I never allow the slide to snap shut unless the pistol has a loaded magazine in it. Allowing the slide to fly forward without the resistance of loading the chamber puts a great deal of unnecessary stress and wear on the pistol. I consider it right up there with flipping the cylinder closed on a double-action revolver.
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S&W tends to use stronger springs than standard in their 1911s. I believe the 1911SC has a 20lb spring as standard.
 
Originally posted by Denver Dick:
As you know the factory standard is 16#. I don't think I've ever heard of a slide assembly departing the pistol, but heck, stranger things have happened.

Creaky voice here: "Back in the day, there were some folks who used 22 & 24 lb springs." Cracked frames, broken slide stops and sheared barrel underlugs were not uncommon. Quite possibly accelerated by the IPSC requirement to run the slide after showing clear.

I personally witnessed a Sig lose it's slide assembly due to takedown latch failure. The look on the guys face was priceless
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Dunno about springs in that case.

Backing off to 18.5 lbs is probably reasonable, but unless there's a necessity, it shouldn't be an automatic action to beef up the recoil spring. BTW, that 850 Gs going into battery was while stripping and feeding a round.
 
There's nothing wrong with S&W springs unless you like hard and rough springs.....I have a S&W40GVE and I re-did the trigger assy and replace all the factory springs with Wolf springs.....and let me tell you.....you can tell the differnce everything works so smooth....and for about 40 bucks you can replace them all........Hope this helps you....
 
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