Wolff spring

scattershot

scattershot

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I just installed a Wolff reduced power spring in my Model 10 revolver. As often happens, double action will not reliably set off the primer. Short of going to Federal (soft) primers, are there any tricks to increasing the spring tension? I have tried to insert a spent primer cup on the strain screw, but can’t get it between the spring and the frame. Thinking of a piece of leather between the screw and the spring, but that seems like a temporary fix. Any other tricks I should know?
 
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Just put in the regular power mainspring. It's redesigned and still feels better than the OEM one.

The Power Rib Mainspring developed by W.C. Wolff Company is a patented mainspring for use in Smith & Wesson K, L and N frame revolvers. This spring has a unique variable power rib-back design. The Wolff Power Rib Mainspring dramatically improves the smoothness and consistency of trigger pull essentially eliminating stack up as well as providing optimum hammer action. This spring can usually take the place of expensive trigger jobs, with better results. For most target and non-critical applications, we recommend the TYPE-2 spring which is reduced power. For critical applications such as law enforcement, we strongly recommend the TYPE-1 spring which is factory equivalent in strength.
 
I use a set screw from McMaster-Carr to replace the factory strain. This way I can return the gun to stock specs if I sell it. I set the S/A pull to 2 1/2 pounds and the D/A pull to 8 1/2 pounds. This gives total reliability in my guns using the power rib spring. Part number is 95235A507
 
Thanks for the tips, guys. Shortly after posting, I remembered that I had some sheet lead in the basement. I made a small shim from that, and it did the trick. Still won’t set off a rifle primer, but I tried several brands of pistol primer, with no issues.
 
I got a couple of long strain screws from Wolff. I then measured the depth of the "power rib" and ground down the long screw to the length of the original screw plus the depth of the power rib. The result was the new strain screw putting the same amount of pressure on the mainspring as the old screw did to the OEM mainspring. I've had no ignition issues with any factory ammo.
 
Borderboss said:
I got a couple of long strain screws from Wolff. I then measured the depth of the "power rib" and ground down the long screw to the length of the original screw plus the depth of the power rib. The result was the new strain screw putting the same amount of pressure on the mainspring as the old screw did to the OEM mainspring. I've had no ignition issues with any factory ammo.
Click to expand...

Thanks for posting this. I didn’t know they made longer strain screws.
 
jjmIII_Ruger said:
Just put in the regular power mainspring. It's redesigned and still feels better than the OEM one.

The Power Rib Mainspring developed by W.C. Wolff Company is a patented mainspring for use in Smith & Wesson K, L and N frame revolvers. This spring has a unique variable power rib-back design. The Wolff Power Rib Mainspring dramatically improves the smoothness and consistency of trigger pull essentially eliminating stack up as well as providing optimum hammer action. This spring can usually take the place of expensive trigger jobs, with better results. For most target and non-critical applications, we recommend the TYPE-2 spring which is reduced power. For critical applications such as law enforcement, we strongly recommend the TYPE-1 spring which is factory equivalent in strength.
Click to expand...

Do you work for Wolff, by any chance?
 
Lead shims aren’t good idea. Scammers use lead to tighten up old guns to sell them. If you must use brass or stainless shim stock. Redirecting the “load” on a spring can cause it to snap.
Several years ago I bought a 19-2 and it came with couple boxes of Win ammo. Shot this up without fail. I loaded up with CCI SPPs and group opened up considerably, with some failure to fire- on first strike. It turn out to be spring job. Put a S&W spring in and it ran like a champ. Trigger pull wasn’t quite as light but good enough.
 
Update: I finally got through to Wolff on the phone. The tech I spoke with suggested a longer strain screw, and offered to sell me one for $4.00 and change. I asked if I could send the spring back, since I didn’t pay much more for that than he wanted for the screw, and the upshot is that he’s going to snd me the screw for free.
 
The regular power spring and the reduced power spring are the same spring, the reduced power one is just bent more. You can straighten it out and make it the same as a regular power one.
 
Protocall_Design said:
The regular power spring and the reduced power spring are the same spring, the reduced power one is just bent more. You can straighten it out and make it the same as a regular power one.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I didn’t know that. I’ll try that, too.
 
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