won't take bluing

crsides

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My friend has a nice 22/32 kit gun about mid 60's vintage. Nice gun, except the previous owner let something get on the cylinder. It removed the bluing in 3 or 4 spots about the size of a baby aspirin. He had tried cold bluing it and it will not take the bluing. It remains the color of bare steel. I have a win model 70's with replacement bbls that did the same thing. If you rub your finger across it, you can't feel any pitting or change from the blue part. Just won't take a blue.

He is 87 and the kit gun belonged to his brother, recently passed. He is mighty proud of it. Anybody found a fix for this.


Charlie
 
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When cold bluing the steel needs to be thoroughly degreased, I use acetone applied with a gun cleaning patch. You do not want to use cotton swabs as some have lanolin which can contaminate the process. After you have degreased the steel, warm it with a hair dryer till it is just warm enough that you cannot hold it. Then apply your cold blue with another gun cleaning patch, saturate the surface well with the first pass. Do not go back over ther area repetitively, it will streak or if you rub hard enough you can remove ther fresh blue. If problems persist it may be your blue, you want to use fresh blue that has not set around for very long. Also you do not want to contaminate the blue by repetitive dipping of your applicator into the bottle. There are lots of little tricks to getting a good job when cold bluing, basically cleanliness is the most important issue. When the blue has taken a good dark color, rinse with lots of hot water. When the part has dryed, apply gun oil liberally and let set for 24-48 hours before removing the oil. I apply a good wax like Rennaisance wax after removing the oil and I polish gently with a soft cotton cloth. I just cold blued the bolt handle on my Winchester M/70 today, the job turned out nice and dark blue.
 
I've also had the same problem using Blue Wonder. I did not know about some swabs having lanolin in them. That may have been the problem. Is there a better cold blue than Blue Wonder?
 
I have used Oxpho blue with good results, also Van's and most recently Birchwood Casey Super Blue. Fresh blue, proper pre-blue cleaning and not contaminating the process are the keys to a good blue job.
 
Marksman has the right advise for cold bluing. I personally have yet to find a cold bluing that is really durable long term. If you are going to shoot the gun on a regular basis, be prepared to re-blue it from time to time. I have tried 5 or 6 if the different blues out there, and 44/40 & Oxpho seem to be the best of the lot, but with all of that said, there's no substitute for a hot blue job.

chief38
 
Using the acetone oil remover and heat from a hair dryer, I did get a darker blue on the spots. Not sure it looks a lot better, and I don't before and after pics. I suggested he have the cylinder only reblued professionally, but he says he is ok with it as is.


Charlie
 
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