Wood glue

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Need a good glue to repair some wood. Need to be able to sand it for refinishing. It would be nice to mix some walnut saw dust with it to fill areas on grips or stocks. The glue i have can not be sanded. Let me know what works for you. Larry
 
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ALIPHATIC RESIN WOOD GLUE IS A SUPER SANDABLE FAST SET YELLOW RESIN ALIPHATIC WOOD GLUE ADHESIVE ,USED JUST LIKE A PVA GLUE , ALIPHATIC RESIN HAS GREATER RESISTANCE TO WATER AND SANDS GIVING NO RUBBERY GLUE LINE AND HAS A FASTER SET DUE TO THE ALIPHATIC RESIN CONTENT.

Aliphatic resin glue is chemically similar to PVA (white glue), but it is chemically modified to make it stronger and more waterproof. It is typically a buttery yellow color and is sold as "carpenter’s wood glue.".

Most true carpenters wood glue I used was sandable after fully curing and there are dark ones too. Hope this helps
Karl
 
Some glues are not good for filling gaps if you need strength. Also some glues are water resistant and some not, You can mix sawdust or pigments into epoxies to match color but epoxies are not reversible. There is definitely a craft to doing this. Are you repairing a crack or are you filling damaged wood?
 
+1 with post #2........

Don't even think about using Elmer's Glue !!

Some wood work needs jigs, clamps or a vise to hold the parts in place, while they dry.
Don't be in a hurry............ rule #1.

Pegs, pie's, screws and other structural enhancers for wood are other things you might also
look at, for a strong fitting, other than just a simple connection.

Good luck.
 
Lots of options, as all the folks above said.
What are you gluing? Size, thickness, shape (flat, rounded, etc) pistol grips, rifle stock?
Do you have the proper clamps?
What kind of wood?
Does the repair need to be strong or just look nice or both?
Is this a break with all the pieces there, or will you have to graft or fill empty spots?
Does it need to be waterproof?
Will you ever have to disassemble it?
A pic would help a whole bunch.
 
I've had excellent results with Titebond water-proof glue in the green container. It is amazingly strong and I've had no problem sanding it.

At my Gun Club we are required to work a minimum of 5 hours / year doing chores that are needed around the Club. My thing is (along with 3 others) is to build target frames for the pistol range. We used this Titebond water-proof glue a few years ago for the first time and all of a sudden the frames were withstanding foul weather, shooting, and abuse better than ever before! We have always used the same materials, screws, etc and the only variable that we changed was the glue - it is very very strong!.
 
It’s a piece on a T/C Contender forend. It needs to be refinished and if any gaps I would like to fill them. The forend is nicely figured walnut. Have some grips also that have an edge missing or a piece of border missing by checkering and would like to fill and refinish. Larry
 

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For a repair like that I would use West System epoxy. I use it all the time to repair knots in Black Walnut wood. It is strong and picks up the color of the wood well to blend. I prefer the 205 fast hardener with the 105 resin.
 
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I have found the stuff used to bed rifle actions to be the best glue for wood. I had a kit from Brownells or maybe Herter's , walnut colored and there were fiberglass fibers you could mix in to fill gaps.
This stuff is the perfect wood glue. After bedding a rifle I used the leftover to repair all manner of wood grips...this stuff is excellent to fill gaps around ill fitting handgun grips. It might be an epoxy of some type. The walnut color matched walnut wood just fine.
It would be just the ticket on the TC walnut stock, color would be a good match .
Gary
 
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I have found the stuff used to bed rifle actions to be the best glue for wood. I had a kit from Brownells or maybe Herter's , walnut colored and there were fiberglass fibers you could mix in to fill gaps.
This stuff is the perfect wood glue. After bedding a rifle I used the leftover to repair all manner of wood grips...this stuff is excellent to fill gaps around ill fitting handgun grips. It might be an epoxy of some type. The walnut color matched walnut wood just fine.
It would be just the ticket on the TC walnut stock, color would be a good match .
Gary


Yep, I would use Acra-Glass gel. Very strong and you can either use the coloring that comes with it, or mix a stain in it to match.
 
You can add a darker colored wood powder/dye and make it look like part of the figured Walnut.
The various Titebonds are great
West System epoxy, the Gougeons of epoxy, is my favorite since building a dingy on the roof of an apartment building decades ago. :D
The Landlord made a personal appearance to show his displeasure!!!
 
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Titebond III gives you a bit more open time. I use this all the time.

An added suggestion: Find/buy as small piece of walnut and either run it through your tablesaw, or lacking that, use a circular saw to create a bunch of walnut shavings/dust. You will use these walnut shavings to mix into Titebond III for areas that you want "to fill". And for the best fit, use some type of clamp to hold things together while glue is drying. Lacking that, wrap a bit of wax paper around area being joined/glued and use rubberbands to hold it together. ;)

Here is a project I built with Claro Walnut. More images when you follow the link: Claro Walnut Small Box - by HorizontalMike @ LumberJocks.com ~ woodworking community

1555458-438x.jpg


ok4yoak.jpg
 
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A Spanish Windlass variation is another way to hold odd size shapes while the glue sets.
I also save saw blade dust, wood and metal, for certain uses but also grind a very fine powder for some woodwork.

A 1933 Martin C1.
Will take more time to remove the previous nightmare than do the other work.
 

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