Since i love to shoot the .500, and factory ammo is really hard to find in europe (IF it is around in the region, it might take up to 2 months to get them into the country, paperwork involved), i started to get everything needed for reloading.

Right now, i'm all ready to go and have all the components/tools needed. I managed to find H&N 300 grain TMJ round nose bullets.. and that's where this question is about.. ( i've ordered several boxes of Hornady 500gr. SP's..but as mentioned, that may take a while to arrive )

I have several boxes of Magtech 400gr. SP factory ammo, so i'm going to use those casings.

The load 'plan'

Magtech casings, LR-primer pocket
CCI200-LR primers
Vithavuori N110 powder (40,0 grains, starting load)
H&N 300gr. TMJ, Truncated cone bullet
COL : 51,0mm

In the Vithavuori manual, there's 1 recipe for a 300 grain TMJ bullet..an other brand bullet.. but weight and shape/type is the same, so i would be ok right?

The thing is.. these H&N bullets i have, are listed on the box as .501's.. most people i speak to say it's ok to use, especially with the starting load stated.

What do you experts over here think about this load/components selection? And then in particular the use of the TMJ .501 bullet .

Thanx in advance! M

oh and actually question number 2.. the bullet mentioned has no cannelure or crimp groove.. is it ok to use without a crimp at all? So 1 round at a time i mean . I removed the remaining belling of the case by turning in the seater/crimp die in, bit by bit, just up to where the round chambers nice and smooth. So i expect there will be a very light form of crimp.. but not really visible.

Since you cant set a good roll-crimp on a bullet without a cannelure.. i thought i might try this, loading 1 round at a time.

thnx!

I thought I read on another forum that the s&w 500 took bullets from .500" to .501", but be careful not to use any of the .510" bullets out there for a different gun. I just started reloading for my s&w 500 and have not shot any of my reloads yet, so i have no experience with it. I also read that the bullet length was more important than the shape to get similar performance. I prefer to crimp all of my reloads. At least on cast lead bullets you don't need the crimp grove as the crimp die will form what it needs. I have also reloaded for other 50 cal guns where I put the crimp slightly below the crimp groove, with no ill effects. I am not one of the experts on reloading for s&w 500 but these are my opinions. Glad I live where both factory ammo and reload supplies for the 50 s&w are readily available via the internet.

I am looking for load data for the s&w500 400 gr and 500 gr hard cast lead bullets with gas check. Also eventually for the 600 gr and 700 gr hard cast lead bullets with gas check. All are flat nose bullets. I realize some people don't see a need for the 600 and 700 gr, but that is not the question. I have a number of powders available and can get more so whatever load data you have will be appreciated. Thanks.

If weight, profile and type of construction match, it should be fine. Just back off a little and work up. .501" is in the ball park.

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"He was kinda funny lookin'"

ok nice, so the diameter is no problemo any advice on trying too shoot without crimp? what's the worst thing that might happen.. no/partial ignition?

And something that confuses me.. i 'assumed' these bullets are TMJ.. because they are copper coloured all around, so no open base/exposed lead core.. but they might be just copper plated someone said. Would that change things? IF it's a plated bullet, instead of a full jacket?

The one reloading die that seems to make the most difference as far as my loads bullet pull is the Lyman two step neck expander die...helps the bullet start straight, and neck tension is good. Redding makes a pro taper crimp die I use on non lead bullets, and Lyman roll crimp on the lead bullets. The bullet diameter plated .501 won't make any difference...If no crimp groove or knurling on the bullet, put a light crimp on. Plated bullets can crack with heavy crimping. The pro taper Redding crimp die would work very well for crimping plated bullets. The load I didn't look up...will later..

Jacketed and copper plated bullets are quite different and I would call, or e mail the manufacturer if your considering copper plated bullets and explain what cartridge your planning to use their bullet in, and the velocity (and pressure if you have it) and ask their recommendation as to velocity their bullet can handle. I myself wouldn't make the assumption that copper plated bullets can readily handle the velocity and pressure of the 500 S&W without some input from the manufacturer....this applies to the copper plated projectiles.

One issue you could have without a crimp is the bullets pulling forward under recoil and jamming the cylinder. I had this happen once and have been very careful to make sure I get a good crimp in any revolver round I load. Of course, if you just load one at a time, that won't be a problem.

As mentioned, i contacted the manufacturing company of those bullets, H&N in Germany.. they said the copper plated design is not designed for full and/or near full house loads in the S&W.500.. funny thing, because they list the type of bullet specifically for the .500 lol..

But, since i don't wanna take any risks, especially not with these pressures around, i pulled the bullets from the rounds i allready made and replaced them with Hornady's! They came in way earlier than expected!

Both XTP's.. 350grain hp's.. and 500grain sp/fp's. Looks like pure quality! With cannelure, so finished it off with a very heavy roll-crimp. Fired some yesterday @ range, and what a difference with factory ammo.. wow. especially in combination with Hodgdon H-110. That sound..haha perfect

Corbin Mfg. make everything to make your own bullets, swadged lead and jacketed. One of the tools is a cannelure making tool. It work not ont on the bullets, but you can make a cannelure in the case wall into the bullet (to lock the bullet in place, but it raises chamber pressure!) or below the bullet (to stop set back in tubular magazines).

I had a Desert Eagle in 50 AE. And loaded bullets in the 300 and 325 grain areas. Many were of double plated design, with a soft nose and cannelure. The 50 AE is a straight wall with a rebated rim, so it head spaces on the case mouth. Just like 45 ACP, you use a tapper crimp. Barry's bullets makes a plated bullet in the .500-.501 class and Speer makes the 325 grain Hot Core bullet. Both worked well in a 6" gas operated D.E. at about 1400 fps using H110/WW296.

When Sampson first released the 50 AE ammo there were 300 JSP, 350 JSP and 350 FMJ. They never shipped a second batch of FMJ to the USA because they would penetrate a bullet proof vest ( the rumor is they were designed to shoot through a car door, then a gunman, then take out the driver). So watch the oveer penetration on the hard cast bullets too.

Ivan

Nice info! and i hear you about that over penetration.. we did a test last night.. shooting a 350xtp-hp with 39,5gr H110 behind it.. 8 3/8 comp.barrel.. at a WET piece of tree, big log, 35 centimeter diameter.. and it went through.. lol!

Marcie Sounds like things worked out well and your making good progress on your loadings and choice of components. Congrats. IF the bullets are staying in place fairly well when you fire a cylinder full..and the last round in the cylinder doesn't show much bullet pulling (due to recoil), your home free. Enjoy. Big bore heavy bullet handgun cartridges are capable of very good penetration and you can learn about some of the testing that has been done here...it's interesting: Linebaugh Seminar Penetration Tests Good luck... !

Marcie
They still do the Linebaugh seminars up in Cody Wyoming if you ever get interested.. Good guys, fun stuff. More just shooting the big bores than anything these days....they learned by testing some time ago that these powerful handguns can out penetrate many common rifles..by a good margin...Some data listed towards the bottom of the link page.

i haven't tested bullet creep yet, as i loaded and fired 1 round at a time, because i didn't know what might happen at the time haha. At next range-time i will!

very interesting figures you showed! If i read correct.. the .500sw out-penetrates a .30-06 and even a .338LM? That's pretty 'wow'... would be interesting to see what a lighter bullet at higher speeds would do.. as i had the impression the 350 grain xtp-hp went through that log easier than the xtp-500.. The 350 is a hollow point.. everybody i was with (including myself haha) were confident the bullet would stop a.s.a.p in that log.. guess we were wrong

currently i'm 0,5 grains of H110 short of the maximum loading, as shown in the Lyman reloading book. It seems a good and particular 'safe' reloading-guide, as the max loadings mentioned there are below the max loading figures that are given by, for example, Hornady.. There's 1.5 grain difference in the max load figures between Lyman and Hornady for the 350-XTP hollow point..i guess Lyman is always on the safer side? Testing will continue

The heavier the load, the more likely this is to happen.

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"He was kinda funny lookin'"

All plated bullets have this limitation, even those specifies for other calibers. The ones with an extra heavy plating can do better, but this isn't standardized at all.
Anyway I don't mess with plated bullets and went straight to coated hardcast lead. I think coated bullets are the best thing to come down the pike in a long time. A real improvement over a stopgap measure.

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"He was kinda funny lookin'"

Hardcast gas checked bullets work very well in the 500 and in my gun. Cheaper and the WFNGC (wide flat nose gas check) bullet is very accurate in mine in the 440 gr. weight...and it has a good reputation for accuracy at that weight and design. I also shoot the Barnes 400 gr. Buster bullet..it's expensive, but accurate and will do the penetration job if and when I choose not to use lead. Really the 500 is at it's best with the heavy weight hard cast gas checked bullets. Higher velocity and less pressure and as you can see by the penetration tests...they go deep and cut a big hole.

In our area we have quite a few Grizzly and people are running into trouble with them. Two hunters bitten last year, a back packer eaten this summer, and another bitten. So...the 500 goes with me when I go out. Aside from the back packer eaten, the others had been game down and the hunters going for help to get it out...then get ambushed by the bear upon returning and near the downed Elk. The Grizzly aren't hunted in our area so they aren't afraid at all seem to be coming to the shot as they know there will be easy food. Not something to argue with a Grizzly about who owns it...as long as the bear doesn't make a issue out of it but lately they have been. Good reason to carry the 500 when hunting..and I hunt with it anyway so....

Ppro..just as an aside. The 500 S&W revolvers have the interlock(otherwise known as a Hillary Hole). My 4 inch 500 would on occasion lock itself. You may not have had this happen but it may be worthwhile to remove the internal lock. Not hard to do. You don't need to have that lock make the gun inactive in the midst of a bear attack. I did load plated bullets for my gun but never pushed 'em fast. That 500 is a surprisingly accurate handgun and with mid range loads is a fun gun to shoot for many more rounds than the big boomers. A friend only 2 miles from downtown Cody had a grizz problem. Captured it and turns out it was a 10 yr old Sow with many transgressions where it had been moved to the back country. Don't think they will ever keep it away from towns or people.

Skeet...Thanks...I hadn't thought about the key so I will take care of it. Probably grind the round actuator nub off to keep the part to fill the hole..probably yes ? That would be a bad deal to have it lock when you really need it. I have heard about the Griz showing up around Cody...makes sense...not far from the park. Because of the numbers they need some kind of delisting for controlled hunt. The numbers are well above delisting numbers..with controlled hunts limited though they might be, the bears might get the idea and we would save people some injury or death.

Probably the only thing is that some of the bullets might back out of the cases as the shots are fired. People say a good roll crimp improves burn but I wouldn't expect no or partial ignition. Just some unburned powder grains.

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"He was kinda funny lookin'"

The 500 does have a little bit of back up to her. I never thought it was too bad though. It has a kind of twist to the recoil from the torque or P factor of the bullet goin down the bbl. I quit shooting mine as much as it hurt the arthritis in my wrists after shooting 25-30 rounds ...and it is so heavy I might as well carry the Marine version of the Mossyberg 590 with slugs in bear country. B'ar country is getting to be everywhere now. Wolf country is right outside my door. I have a friend who works on the TE ranch over south of Cody. He is regularly seeing 3 or 4 grizz from his kitchen window most every day. The elk sure stay away from 'em. I also know a rancher not too far from Cody who lost 2 $25,000 breeding bulls and at least 48 cows to the grizz and wolves this year. He ain't makin any profit this year. Beef prices are up there in never never land these days. I took the interlock completely out of my 500 though. There was a feller on this forum making a little part to put in it's place to close the Hillary hole. But a small piece of foil tape will close the hole up..

Skeet 028 I did check on the part to plug the hole in the frame...the gentleman making them hasn't answered since January...They figured something happened...I will figure something out for that. Dam That's some expensive beef to loose..Even if the rancher could get compensated for loss of the bull, it hammers breeding programs.. Surprised no one has gotten eaten or chewed up around Cody yet...but then it may just make local news.

Well we did some more 'testing' with different load-specs.. i'm not a recoil sensitive person, but after the 500 grain Hornady XTP's.. with full-house H-110.. i can say i really need a proper shooting glove!! And i never ever said that before.. damn

Heck I started with a glove.. I had never used one before. got it in a box of stuff at an estate auction. actually fit. I guess it helped. Never used it for anything else but a friend used it shooting his 460 he's a wimp wimp wimp! LOL I gotta say though..I have used one of those Past pads shooting a couple of big boomers in rifles. I have an OLD Weatherby made 300 mag from the early 50s on a square bridge Brevex Mauser action. A miserable rifle to shoot and that Past pad really helps. Only handgun I never liked to shoot was a FA 454 Casull. Nasty

Haha, funny to bring up a FA in .454casull.. A guy at our range has 1 of those, and in the past he let me shoot it quite a bit and quite often. I have to say, that FA was less punishing with fullhouse .454, than the .500 with the very heavy loads. I think it might be for the fact (that's the way i'm experiencing it) that the FA, because of it's bent grip, twists in your hand while firing it, flipping the muzzle quite heavy, using up a lot of energy and thus reducing the punch to your handpalm.. the .500 is wayyy better to grip and has lot less muzzle flip anyways, so almost all that energy comes straight back into the palm of your hand. That's exactly where it starts to hurt after 20/25 rounds or so.. in the middle of your hand.. wrists etc. are fine.

Are there more guys here, that experience misfires with CCI #200, large rifle primers, in their .500? had about 5 'clicks' instead of a BANG out of 60 rounds.. not good might be cups beeing to hard/stiff? Going to try Federal #210, as they say they are way softer.. or might i be doing something wrong myself? lol.

The CCI primers are harder and require to be fully seated
I have had issues with these in my 500's
I use WLR without issue
You are correct in the Federal Primers will be softer

I use CCI 200's in my 500 & 460 without any issues.

.

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Waiting for the break of day

Could one of you guys do me a favor...
I couldn't find one of the two muzzle brakes that came with my 8.38 inch 500, so I found one a gentleman had one for sale...when I got it, I noticed that the inside diameter of the front exit hole of the brake is slightly small than that of the brake that I already have and use. So would one of you be so kind as to caliper measure the exit hole diameters of your two brakes you received with your 500 ? That would really help me to know if the brake I bought is for this 500 I have. The brake I got with the gun rough measures around .545 and the brake I bought separate, measures around .530 (That's inside diameter of the exit hole on both). Could one of you caliper your two brake exit holes and let me know roughly what they measure ? I am hoping that I didn't end up buying a brake actually meant for something like say...the 460 Thanks ....greatly appreciated.. !

I'll measure it as soon as i'm home . i've got the 1st gen. though.. with the fixed compensator, but that would't make a big of a difference i guess?

And always, ALWAYS, start with the starting load with the 500 and work your way up. As you approach the higher max loads the recoil is really strong. Especially with the H110.

Not sure if anyone has ever had their finger bounce on the trigger after a shot with the 500 but it can happen at the higher loads. What i am saying is the recoil is so strong your finger bounces on the trigger and you fire a second time during the recoil.

Load data for the 300 FTX from Hornady

Accurate #9 will start at 38.5 grains @ 1700 fps to a max. load of 44.1 grains @ 1950 fps. The H110 powder will start at 43.6 grains @ 1700 fps to a max. load of 51.4 grains @ 2000 fps. Your C.O.L. with both loads will be 2.195”. This load data is for the 500 S&W cartridge using the Hornady 300 grains FTX bullet, item #50102

Marcie Thanks but, if you have the fixed compensator it may be different. I would like to know what your measures though. I do need the exit hole measurements of the compensators for the 8 3/8 length with the removable compensators. I may have the wrong compensator (muzzle brake if you will) and it might be for the 460. I hope someone will measure theirs for me...I don't want to test it and blow the compensator off the end of the gun because it isn't the right exit hole diameter. I do just need calipered, the exit hole diameters of the two removal brakes that come with the 500....then I will know if the brake I bought is correct...

The 460 and 500 comps will not physically interchange , if it fit your gun than you are good to go.

ruggyh Thanks...that helps. There is only about 15 thousandths difference between the two...just enough you can see it...but I should be ok then. .545 vs .530 ish... ok thanks, I won't give it another worry.

That is by design
helps prevent lead from seizing the comp in place

Just measured 0.532", on my 8-3/8 500. 1st model, fixed comp.

Thank you Marcie appreciated...

Paul