.500 magnum, load-data

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Marcie

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Since i love to shoot the .500, and factory ammo is really hard to find in europe (IF it is around in the region, it might take up to 2 months to get them into the country, paperwork involved), i started to get everything needed for reloading.

Right now, i'm all ready to go and have all the components/tools needed. I managed to find H&N 300 grain TMJ round nose bullets.. and that's where this question is about.. ( i've ordered several boxes of Hornady 500gr. SP's..but as mentioned, that may take a while to arrive :( )

I have several boxes of Magtech 400gr. SP factory ammo, so i'm going to use those casings.

The load 'plan'

Magtech casings, LR-primer pocket
CCI200-LR primers
Vithavuori N110 powder (40,0 grains, starting load)
H&N 300gr. TMJ, Truncated cone bullet
COL : 51,0mm

In the Vithavuori manual, there's 1 recipe for a 300 grain TMJ bullet..an other brand bullet.. but weight and shape/type is the same, so i would be ok right?

The thing is.. these H&N bullets i have, are listed on the box as .501's.. most people i speak to say it's ok to use, especially with the starting load stated.

What do you experts over here think about this load/components selection? And then in particular the use of the TMJ .501 bullet :).

Thanx in advance! M
 
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oh and actually question number 2.. the bullet mentioned has no cannelure or crimp groove.. is it ok to use without a crimp at all? So 1 round at a time i mean :). I removed the remaining belling of the case by turning in the seater/crimp die in, bit by bit, just up to where the round chambers nice and smooth. So i expect there will be a very light form of crimp.. but not really visible.

Since you cant set a good roll-crimp on a bullet without a cannelure.. i thought i might try this, loading 1 round at a time.

thnx!
 
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I thought I read on another forum that the s&w 500 took bullets from .500" to .501", but be careful not to use any of the .510" bullets out there for a different gun. I just started reloading for my s&w 500 and have not shot any of my reloads yet, so i have no experience with it. I also read that the bullet length was more important than the shape to get similar performance. I prefer to crimp all of my reloads. At least on cast lead bullets you don't need the crimp grove as the crimp die will form what it needs. I have also reloaded for other 50 cal guns where I put the crimp slightly below the crimp groove, with no ill effects. I am not one of the experts on reloading for s&w 500 but these are my opinions. Glad I live where both factory ammo and reload supplies for the 50 s&w are readily available via the internet.
 
I am looking for load data for the s&w500 400 gr and 500 gr hard cast lead bullets with gas check. Also eventually for the 600 gr and 700 gr hard cast lead bullets with gas check. All are flat nose bullets. I realize some people don't see a need for the 600 and 700 gr, but that is not the question. I have a number of powders available and can get more so whatever load data you have will be appreciated. Thanks.
 
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ok nice, so the diameter is no problemo :) any advice on trying too shoot without crimp? what's the worst thing that might happen.. no/partial ignition?
 
And something that confuses me.. i 'assumed' these bullets are TMJ.. because they are copper coloured all around, so no open base/exposed lead core.. but they might be just copper plated someone said. Would that change things? IF it's a plated bullet, instead of a full jacket?
 
500 S&W load

The one reloading die that seems to make the most difference as far as my loads bullet pull is the Lyman two step neck expander die...helps the bullet start straight, and neck tension is good. Redding makes a pro taper crimp die I use on non lead bullets, and Lyman roll crimp on the lead bullets. The bullet diameter plated .501 won't make any difference...If no crimp groove or knurling on the bullet, put a light crimp on. Plated bullets can crack with heavy crimping. The pro taper Redding crimp die would work very well for crimping plated bullets. The load I didn't look up...will later..
 
500 S&w LOADS

Jacketed and copper plated bullets are quite different and I would call, or e mail the manufacturer if your considering copper plated bullets and explain what cartridge your planning to use their bullet in, and the velocity (and pressure if you have it) and ask their recommendation as to velocity their bullet can handle. I myself wouldn't make the assumption that copper plated bullets can readily handle the velocity and pressure of the 500 S&W without some input from the manufacturer....this applies to the copper plated projectiles.
 
One issue you could have without a crimp is the bullets pulling forward under recoil and jamming the cylinder. I had this happen once and have been very careful to make sure I get a good crimp in any revolver round I load. Of course, if you just load one at a time, that won't be a problem.
 
As mentioned, i contacted the manufacturing company of those bullets, H&N in Germany.. they said the copper plated design is not designed for full and/or near full house loads in the S&W.500.. funny thing, because they list the type of bullet specifically for the .500 lol..

But, since i don't wanna take any risks, especially not with these pressures around, i pulled the bullets from the rounds i allready made and replaced them with Hornady's! They came in way earlier than expected!

Both XTP's.. 350grain hp's.. and 500grain sp/fp's. Looks like pure quality! With cannelure, so finished it off with a very heavy roll-crimp. Fired some yesterday @ range, and what a difference with factory ammo.. wow. especially in combination with Hodgdon H-110. That sound..haha perfect :)
 
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Corbin Mfg. make everything to make your own bullets, swadged lead and jacketed. One of the tools is a cannelure making tool. It work not ont on the bullets, but you can make a cannelure in the case wall into the bullet (to lock the bullet in place, but it raises chamber pressure!) or below the bullet (to stop set back in tubular magazines).

I had a Desert Eagle in 50 AE. And loaded bullets in the 300 and 325 grain areas. Many were of double plated design, with a soft nose and cannelure. The 50 AE is a straight wall with a rebated rim, so it head spaces on the case mouth. Just like 45 ACP, you use a tapper crimp. Barry's bullets makes a plated bullet in the .500-.501 class and Speer makes the 325 grain Hot Core bullet. Both worked well in a 6" gas operated D.E. at about 1400 fps using H110/WW296.

When Sampson first released the 50 AE ammo there were 300 JSP, 350 JSP and 350 FMJ. They never shipped a second batch of FMJ to the USA because they would penetrate a bullet proof vest ( the rumor is they were designed to shoot through a car door, then a gunman, then take out the driver). So watch the oveer penetration on the hard cast bullets too.

Ivan
 
Nice info! and i hear you about that over penetration.. we did a test last night.. shooting a 350xtp-hp with 39,5gr H110 behind it.. 8 3/8 comp.barrel.. at a WET piece of tree, big log, 35 centimeter diameter.. and it went through.. lol!
 
Marcie Sounds like things worked out well and your making good progress on your loadings and choice of components. Congrats. IF the bullets are staying in place fairly well when you fire a cylinder full..and the last round in the cylinder doesn't show much bullet pulling (due to recoil), your home free. Enjoy. Big bore heavy bullet handgun cartridges are capable of very good penetration and you can learn about some of the testing that has been done here...it's interesting: Linebaugh Seminar Penetration Tests Good luck... !
 
Marcie
They still do the Linebaugh seminars up in Cody Wyoming if you ever get interested.. Good guys, fun stuff. More just shooting the big bores than anything these days....they learned by testing some time ago that these powerful handguns can out penetrate many common rifles..by a good margin...Some data listed towards the bottom of the link page.
 
i haven't tested bullet creep yet, as i loaded and fired 1 round at a time, because i didn't know what might happen at the time haha. At next range-time i will!

very interesting figures you showed! If i read correct.. the .500sw out-penetrates a .30-06 and even a .338LM? That's pretty 'wow'... would be interesting to see what a lighter bullet at higher speeds would do.. as i had the impression the 350 grain xtp-hp went through that log easier than the xtp-500.. The 350 is a hollow point.. everybody i was with (including myself haha) were confident the bullet would stop a.s.a.p in that log.. guess we were wrong :o

currently i'm 0,5 grains of H110 short of the maximum loading, as shown in the Lyman reloading book. It seems a good and particular 'safe' reloading-guide, as the max loadings mentioned there are below the max loading figures that are given by, for example, Hornady.. There's 1.5 grain difference in the max load figures between Lyman and Hornady for the 350-XTP hollow point..i guess Lyman is always on the safer side? Testing will continue :D
 
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The heavier the load....

txbandit said:
One issue you could have without a crimp is the bullets pulling forward under recoil and jamming the cylinder. I had this happen once and have been very careful to make sure I get a good crimp in any revolver round I load. Of course, if you just load one at a time, that won't be a problem.
Click to expand...

The heavier the load, the more likely this is to happen.
 
Any plated bullet......

Marcie said:
As mentioned, i contacted the manufacturing company of those bullets, H&N in Germany.. they said the copper plated design is not designed for full and/or near full house loads in the S&W.500.. funny thing, because they list the type of bullet specifically for the .500 lol..

But, since i don't wanna take any risks, especially not with these pressures around, i pulled the bullets from the rounds i allready made and replaced them with Hornady's! They came in way earlier than expected!
Click to expand...

All plated bullets have this limitation, even those specifies for other calibers. The ones with an extra heavy plating can do better, but this isn't standardized at all.
Anyway I don't mess with plated bullets and went straight to coated hardcast lead. I think coated bullets are the best thing to come down the pike in a long time. A real improvement over a stopgap measure.
 
Hardcast gas checked bullets work very well in the 500 and in my gun. Cheaper and the WFNGC (wide flat nose gas check) bullet is very accurate in mine in the 440 gr. weight...and it has a good reputation for accuracy at that weight and design. I also shoot the Barnes 400 gr. Buster bullet..it's expensive, but accurate and will do the penetration job if and when I choose not to use lead. Really the 500 is at it's best with the heavy weight hard cast gas checked bullets. Higher velocity and less pressure and as you can see by the penetration tests...they go deep and cut a big hole.
 
In our area we have quite a few Grizzly and people are running into trouble with them. Two hunters bitten last year, a back packer eaten this summer, and another bitten. So...the 500 goes with me when I go out. Aside from the back packer eaten, the others had been game down and the hunters going for help to get it out...then get ambushed by the bear upon returning and near the downed Elk. The Grizzly aren't hunted in our area so they aren't afraid at all seem to be coming to the shot as they know there will be easy food. Not something to argue with a Grizzly about who owns it...as long as the bear doesn't make a issue out of it but lately they have been. Good reason to carry the 500 when hunting..and I hunt with it anyway so....
 
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