And the making there of:
We kicked this around a couple years ago but I have no idea how long things stay in the 'search' venue. I was ask so here we are again.

The below photo shows some of my shot shells in 32/20 -- they work fine for what they are. They were done using a Hornady Blank dies set-- Powder charge is the same as use with my regular charge of W231. In this case, bath tissue was cut into little squares and a couple pieces were inserted and rammed tight with a small arbor press, which was obtained from Harbor Freight for another purpose, originally. #9 shot filled the shell, just as much as it would hold. Then the shell was crimped. With the Hornady set, this is a two stage process. First stage sets the crimp and gets it started. Second stage finalizes the process.
In strightwalled cases, I use cards cut out of Half & half cartons obtained from my wife who uses it in her coffee. I have a punch set from Harbor fright bought for this purpose. I cut the cards, WAX side up so when installed the wax is over the powder when turned over. The punches are a tad over sized, which makes for a tight fit and again are rammed home with the arbor press using a small brass rod, (have several sizes) used for another project. all this sounds like a lot more than it is.
It is my understanding that years ago they made several different syles and sizes of 'STAR CRIMPS' but I have never seen any, other than photos. I make several different calibers of these, and my next project along this line will to make some for my 500.. These are sold commercially for $60.00 for 20, if you can find them. So, I hope this puts a bit of light on this subject. I am most happy to share what little I know as I have found a wealth of information here down through the years. THANKS to ALL!!!



Here are some in 45 Colt, these days they look a bit better.

you Gentlemen are the sort that makes this a GREAT site . thanks for sharing . kenny

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Too good

For 45 Colt in Revolvers and carbines I use 460 brass trimmed to 45 colt COAL (1.51) and put a small bottleneck with a 44-40 die. WLP primer, 5.5gr of WW231, cork or cardboard over powder card, 1/2 oz of #7.5 shot, another card over shot, and seal with Gutter Seam Sealer (from Lowe's roofing department.) Let cure a few days.

Still have some of my first batch of 61, They have held up to chamber and some pocket carry for 12 years.

Velocity is about 750 fps and pattern is 12" @ 12 feet from 5.5" Vaquero.
Tears up snakes on your trail like a lawnmower!

Ivan

memtb: to reduce your pattern, reduce your speed/powder charge. (your charge of 18 grains of 296 (or something similar) is probably a flame thrower too! (It was intended for a 26" barrel or longer!)

ITB

I don't know how your rifling and shot cup are reacting to each, but soft or magnum shot will not hurt anything! I would think you could get almost a full ounce or at least 7/8 ounce load in the case without the shot cup. Use load data for 440 grains on 1 ounce and 385-400 for 7/8. Pick a velocity between 600 and 900 fps. (I really like 750!) Check you patterns at the distance your target will be, snakes at 12 feet seems logical to me.

Hint from trap shooters. Not only velocity influences pattern, but shot size also. The smaller the pellet, the bigger the pattern. That is why I use 7.5 (I didn't have any #6's at the time!) Also, larger pellets have more energy each, so the shot that do hit do a little more damage!

I had a single shot 4" derringer in 410 years ago. When I was patterning it, I was at 7 yards (for SD) and used 4'x4' card board to check with. (paper will do, but I had lots of appliance boxes). #9 factory loads were WAY bigger than 4', #4 was about 18 inches, the 3 buckshot loads were around 4". That gun would shoot 45 Colt too and would stack my cowboy action load as well as any of my 45 Colt revolvers!

Ivan

A note on small quantities of shot: Most long time hunters have shell leftover at the end of the season, bum a few of those from you friends and/or relatives and slice them open over a pan or jar. Instant shot source! I got left over shells of mine back into the 70's, Dad had them into the mid 50's.

Ivan

About a year ago I bought 10 pounds of #11 shot, a lifetime supply.

I have made shotshells for most of my revolvers, 45 Colt, 41 & 44 mag, then 38 spcl. If I don’t have or buy the shot cups I put fingernail polish over the shot(flush with case) to hold it in place.

Most often the powder is a mild charge of Titegroup.

I've got about 3 boxes of the .44 Caliber plastic cups that Speer made in the 80's. I used to make up shot shells with #9 shot as that the smallest I was ever able to find.

They worked fine for me. I need to find a little 9 shot to load up a few now.

Running about $45.00 a bag and up around here, if you can find it. I seem to have all I need.

What's the advantage of making your own vs just buying the off the shelf shot shells from CCI? Do you all really shoot that many of these that reloading makes sense?

I loaded wire brads into a speer plastic shot capsule once, just for the heck of it. I don't think I found a single one in the board I used for a target
(not too bright, I know now), it was fun trying it once but never again.

The shot shells I described above (post #4) give low velocity 410 performance in a normal 45 Colt handgun or carbine. There is no shot capsule to replace or limit you to a small capacity. The shot size is usually larger, which gives each pellet more energy. And like most reloading, there is a satisfaction in cutting out the middle men!

Ivan

Yeah, one could buy the few people normally use. As a reloader, most like the DIY approach. Then say you have a 41 magnum, likely won’t find any commercial shot shells.

I have cannibilized #8 shot shells. I think it’s better to go with smaller pellets if one searches it out.

With the nail polish to hold the shot, no need for capsules. Yes, a little less shot per round.

Many years ago I bought an RCBS die set, marked 45ACP Shotshell, off the markdown table at a shop. Set came with a form/trim die to cut down 308 or 30-06 brass and to form a shoulder for the basic case. The single sheet of instructions that came with the die set were very basic with no load data. However I did find several detailed magazine articles from "The American Rifleman", "Guns & Ammo" and "Combat Handguns" that provided excellent load data. I did find that there was a trial and error process for getting the final trimmed case length correct so that a FIRED case was short enough to allow it to clear the ejection port of a 1911 and Glock 21. When finally completed they worked pretty well on tomatoes that I used for test subjects.

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Just ran into this article on revolver shot loading by John Haviland at Wolfe Publishing:
Handloading Handgun Shotshells | Load Data Article
Has a few nice tips.
One of them I use is to put nitro card wads under and over the shot (not having gas checks).
I crimp them in place and then (maybe overkill) glue them lightly with
primer and cartridge waterproofing lacquer which is just fancy nail polish.
You can split the wads to make them thinner especially for the over-powder one.
My attempts at using .445 brass and bottlenecking it have been less than successful as the primers back out and seize up the cylinder.
The CCI plastic cups work fine.
The article above has some discussion about crimping those too.

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NEMO
"Everything 44"