One of the most discussed topics on this and other Gun Forums is about lubricants. As many here know I am a HUGE Rig Products fan (been using them for 35+ years now) but always like trying out and testing new stuff (or just stuff I've not tried yet).

I recently purchased a 4.5 ounce can of Birchwood Casey Synthetic Gun Oil and started testing it out last week. Now here it my personal LUBRICITY litmus test............ I have a very very old vinyl sliding door in my Den leading out to the rear Patio. It is in descent shape and so I have never replaced it. The only complaint I have with it is that it is extremely heavy and a bit hard to open and close all day long when we entertain outdoors. I use this patio door to test out the lubricity of new lubricants. Now granted, this test will do nothing to test the rust preventative or cleaning qualities of products, just lubricity.

We had a few friends over for a BBQ last weekend and as always my wife asked me to lubricate the sliding glass door. I took this opportunity to break out my new Birchwood Casey Synthetic Gun Oil and give it the test. In all the 20 years I've lived in this house, this is the best lubricant and longest lasting one I have found to date. The stuff stays where you put it (slightly thicker than most Gun Oils) but lubricates incredibly well. I also tried it on my Colt Gov't 1911 (usually use Rig +P Grease on the slide) and it passed with flying colors there too. Now again, the label also says prevents rust and cleans - haven't tested those qualities yet, but I can state that the product has incredible lubricating qualities - about the best I've seen so far. Even better than Hornady's One Shot which is also a terrific product but one I don't use much because in general I dislike aerosol sprays.

I probably would not use this product to wipe down an EDC gun with as it does NOT evaporate and would get messy, but for any internal lubrication this stuff might just be something to try out. It sells for around $5 or $6 Bucks and even though it's only a 4.5 ounce can, it should last years as a very small amount goes a long way. One of the reasons I like Rig #2 Oil so much is that it evaporates quickly leaving protection and lubrication behind which is what you want on a carry gun (no mess to clothing & holsters) but don't know IF the B/C Syn. Gun Oil will creep out of the guns internals yet. I might just give it a whirl. Anyway, I thought I'd just pass my findings along.

Regards,
Chief38

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NTE1WDUxNQ==/z/65kAAOSwEetV8~so/$_12.JPG

Neat! Thanks for the input.

I will continue to use whatever is cheap and/or free. I have found that if it is oil and wet it tends to work.

In general..... I agree. Just a heads up if you gave a big heavy sliding door. LOL!!

Thanks Chief38 for the really nice write up on your experiences with BC Syn Gun Oil. It's always nice to get first hand reviews rather than believe what the manufacturer decides to write on the package. I'm going to give it a try as I'm in the camp of "NOT ALL OILS ARE EQUAL".

On a slightly different note. Whenever I get together with my motorcycle friends, this same topic comes up. Which oil and which grease is the best for whatever application. True, different engines and different parts require different oils and grease. However, after 50 years of servicing my own stuff, I've come to the conclusion that synthetic is the way to go for MOST applications. However, for my vintage stuff I stick to petroleum based products.

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I'm gonna grow fins.

Sometime ago, I saw and bought a can of the BC synthetic gun oil. I recently discovered it behind some of my other products for gun maintenance and decided to give it a try. I had received a "new" older model S&W revolver that had not had the side plate off in a very long time, if ever. I removed and cleaned the internals well and lubed everything inside well with the BC Synthetic oil. I was amazed at the lubricity of this oil! Since I did not use it really sparingly, I found a few spots where I needed to wipe off a bit of the oil after some of it migrated downhill after I parked the revolver when finished.

For some reason, after about a month, I had occasion to remove the sideplate on that revolver again. I found that the BC Synthetic was now much more stable inside after much of the "carrier?" had evaporated a bit. The lubricity of the stuff was still just as good as when first applied, but the slick stuff was still very much in evidence and in place. I have since begun using this product to lubricate the innards of all my firearms as necessary and I have been very pleased with the results.

I agree with Chief38 that this is not a product that you would want to wipe down the outside surfaces of your firearm, although I think it would give protection there. But I think you'd have to really wipe down that firearm before you would want to handle during use. For me, so far, it has been great for internal lubrication purposes. After cleaning the ejector/extractor rod and other "moving" surfaces of that revolver cylinder and yoke and applying this product, I was amazed as the smoothness and speed present when I spun the rod and cylinder upon reassembly, both initially as well as every time I've done that since application. I am very positively impressed with this product. In fact, I have been impressed with most all of the Birchwood Casey products I've tried. Not sure if it's made any longer, at least not in its old configuration, but they made a product called "Sheath" that for me has been the best external gun metal wipe down product I've used. It really protects the metal from fingerprint corrosion as well as providing protection against rust, etc. Good stuff!

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So long ... Ken

Kind of a shame Sperm Oil ( Sperm Whale head Case Oil ) is no longer around. I had a half empty small bottle years ago that I got from a local retired watch repair shop. Tried it a few times on some 1911's and a fishing reel and it remained. Lost that bottle during a move. Anyway I recall reading Harry Pope, Ned Roberts and Phil Sharpe and other experts telling how great the stuff was and even today there are some with a stash who proclaim how well it works. Even though it's not possible to compare I wonder how this natural oil would have compared to today wonder lubes

BC Sheath is now sold under the name BC Barricade.
It's my favorite for wiping down the outside of a gun.
I've been using Tri-Flow lube as an internal gun oil lately, because I have a bottle of it and it's the same thing as the old Break Free CLP.

Honestly, I liked Break Free LP better than CLP as a lube, because it was thicker.

I like Tetra Gun oil for steel on steel lube. Works great on steel framed autos, revolvers, etc.
Wasn't worth a dang on aluminum framed autos.
Slicker than snot on a doorknob for steel on steel friction.
Smells like a bag full of buttholes, though.

Personally, I LIKE the smell of Tri Flow and the old Break Free CLP.

I use Ballistol on my BP guns, since it won't make a tarry fouling.

Now, I need to try some of that BC Synthetic gun oil.

I wish I had a can of sperm oil.
I've read stories of locks being removed from 1800s guns and whale oil still being where it's supposed to be, in the 20th century.

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What would Jim Cirillo do?

My dad used to have a little bottle of sperm oil that he used on his electric hair clippers. He featured himself as a barber and of course I was his only customer. Anyway, he swore by the benefits of sperm oil. I wish I had some too.

BTW, Jaymo mentioned Tetra grease. I like this stuff too! I use it on the rails of myl 3rd Gens. Excellent product.

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I'm gonna grow fins.

I wiped down my .243 today after a loooong time, I'm ashamed to say. I used some 3 in 1 oil, believe it or not, in a metal can. I wiped it down then wiped it with a dry cloth.

I also agree the B/C Barricade is an excellent product - just a little stinky. I received a few cans last year as a gift and it does work well at its primary goal which is rust prevention. However..... the Syn. Gun Oil is a far superior lubricant.

I have been told that the formulation of the older Sheath product was changed (probably to make it more acceptable to the EPA, etc). Barricade was the new product that replaced it. Some have said they don't think it does quite the same job as the Sheath. I don't know, since I had a few cans of Sheath on hand and it lasts a long time! I also have not compared the MSDS sheets for either product. I'm guessing the Barricade is also a good product. But as Chief38 says, it is not meant to be a lubricant but rather a protectant. The B/C synthetic gun oil takes care of lubrication extremely well in my experience.

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So long ... Ken

Appreciate Chief 38's and all others suggestions and views on the above products. So many cleaning and lubricating products it is difficult and confusing to choose the "best" Have been using the Breakfree CLP and Hoppes for bore cleaning but it is great to hear suggestions on external protection of metals. Will give Barricade a look for sure. In the past have used a silicone cloth and the newer Remington green cloth which has oils and rust inhibitors impregnated in the cloth but have not read any reviews as to the effectiveness. Again thanks for the advice.

Question: do you guys wipe down guns that have been paste waxed?

Good question. Oil has some of the same properties as solvents that will remove wax, since all are distillates of petroleum. I have to admit that I often wipe down guns during bore cleaning and most likely remove some wax, but I trust oil more than wax for protection anyway. I wax to present and photograph, but spray Barricade on the surfaces of my cleaned guns before returning them to the safe.

I have used Mobil 1 for decades to protect my antique BP shooters. It does not evaporate like gun oils and being synthetic, it has the ability to penetrate the microscopic pores in metals just like in engines. Any synthetic oil will do this, but where can you buy a quart of synthetic gun oil for $6??

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Gary
SWCA 2515

I have tried numerous gun lubricants and ended up with a new technology type for cleaning and lubricating. archoil AR4200 and AR4400. These are a byproduct from other Nano technology lubricants that contain the material brand named "Cerflon". The AR4400 is very similar to the discontinued S&W Lubricant that was manufactured by Liquid Wrench. Liquid Wrench still makes lubricants with "Cerflon". But the archoil products are more suitable for use in the cleaning and lubrication of guns.

I had to look for more information on wax versus oils and find lots of evidence online stating that oil will dissolve wax. Wax and oil are both non-polar, therefore wax can be dissolved in oil. Auto detailers use WD40 to remove the white haze produced by the use of auto wax from black rubber and plastic surfaces.

Components in Barricade are of course distillates of oil.

MATERIAL SAFETY DATA SHEET
BIRCHWOOD CASEY
BARRICADE
(formerly Sheath

COMPOSITION / INFORMATION ON INGREDIENTS
Severely Hydrotreated Heavy Naphthenic Distillate
Mineral Oil
Heavy Petroleum Oxygenates, Barium neutralized Mixture
Propylene Glycol Monomethyl Ether

As a side note, both Cerflon and Archoil are oils and contain Xylene, so would definitely remove wax coatings with repeated uses.

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Gary
SWCA 2515

So Gary, based on the ingredients listed for the Barricade product, what is your notion about the stuff? Anything there that is potentially harmful to white rats or humans? Does this formula seem to you to be worthy of the claims for it? I'm serious with my questions here.

When I wipe down a firearm that has not been touched for a longer period of time (sitting in a safe, etc), the rag that I use (usually a piece of an old cotton tee shirt, etc), I can usually see a bit of brown color on the white rag which I assume to be the beginnings of rust corrosion. After wiping well, a clean rag will not show any of the brown color. I have always assumed that the brown color represents "stuff" that I need to remove from the metal of a stored firearm, and perhaps that I need to wipe the gun down a bit more often. Mainly, I like to use the old Sheath formula that I still have as a wipe down before storage to make certain that no fingerprints remain on unprotected metal. Those can result in serious permanent damage over time, and I think they are not good for any length of time. Perhaps even 3 in 1 oil would do the same thing. I don't like to use anything that's obviously toxic or dangerous. I still change the oil in my vehicles and for some time have worn latex or similar gloves when doing so. Still, I usually get a bit of oil on my skin somewhere. I've been getting oil and grease on my skin for nearly 70 years now. Maybe that's what is wrong with me!!! Or maybe we should all be wearing protective gloves when cleaning firearms. That would help with the fingerprint problem as well!

Any light you can shed would be much appreciated.

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So long ... Ken

I use it quite often. The aerosol works fine and highly refined lubricants offer lubrication, BUT . . .

I clean my revolvers on a newspaper so I don't get oil on my work bench. I usually spray down the freshly cleaned metal with Barricade. It wets the newspaper and I sometimes leave the paper on the bench overnight. What surprises me is that the newspaper looks completely dry the next day. I feel that most aerosols contain highly volatile oils, which tend to evaporate. When I use heavier synthetic oils to wipe down guns, the oil stained newspaper shows oil staining for days and maybe weeks, so I only use light aerosols on guns that are shot the most and do not languish in my gun safe. I use heavier oil, and yes Mobil 1, to wipe down guns for storage.

Oil is oil, no matter how light or heavy weight you use, so everything that lubricates and protects metal has similar toxicological properties. Most are related to ecological issues, and few are of any great concern as to skin contact or minor inhalation issues. I know of no class action lawsuits for garage mechanics out there and believe me if there was money there, some law firm would have already been all over the issue.

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Gary
SWCA 2515

Thanks for the reply, Gary. Your comments mirror my own feelings. Oil (or petroleum based) products all have the same "stuff" in them. Of course, the recipes are different for different products and the devil is in the details. And many synthetics actually are blends which have some petroleum products in the mix. I tend to prefer liquids rather than aerosols because of the propellants present and the ability to better control the distribution of the products. Liquids generally provide more of the desired product for less cost than do the aerosols. But sometimes an aerosol is easier to apply ... just spray and then wipe down the excess!

Your comments about the newspaper are interesting to me as well. I use gun socks or even old regular sox to store handguns, both for bump protection as well as to contain the inevitable "run off" if too much of the product remains on the gun and migrates to the storage shelf and makes a mess. As I said earlier, I'm still using up my supply of the older Sheath product and so have no experience with the Barricade, but I will try it when and if I use up all my Sheath. It goes a long way!

I tend to be more concerned and careful with the solvents and cleaners than with the products intended primarily for just lubrication. I have never been too worried about skin contact with oils. But I figure anything that tends to leave my skin dried out or removes natural body oil or that will remove the finish on grips or melt plastic is something that needs a bit of care in use. And I also wash my hands well when I'm done using any of these products and don't eat a sandwich while I'm cleaning my guns, changing the oil in my vehicles, or packing a wheel bearing on a trailer!!

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So long ... Ken

Not in my uneducated opinion. Motor oil may very well be relatively non-toxic, but I find that kind of hard to believe from a common sense perspective and it's intended use. The MSDS/SDS for mobil 1 looks pretty harmless, but I'm also aware that companies write their own safety data and that they have often been found to woefully incomplete and inaccurate. Plus, they are coming from the perspective of it's intended use, not off-label applications. Mechanics primarily only get their hands and cloths dirty. They don't carry oily wrenches AIWB or in their pocket all day long, but I do have close bodily contact with my carry guns for the majority of my waking hours. And mechanics actually come into contact primarily with USED motor oil which is well known to contain hazardous and carcinogenic chemicals, so if a automotive mechanic got Cancer, the blame would likely be placed somewhere else other than contact with clean motor oil and rightfully so. I know of no gun oil that is simply repackaged motor oil, but I do know Hoppe's lubricating oil, beloved by many for use on their firearms is nothing more than repackaged white mineral oil. It doesn't have any rust/corrosion inhibiting additives, but neither does motor oil. If all oil is oil and they all pretty much do the same thing, why not use something that is without a doubt non-toxic and effective? For me, I try to minimize my risks and choose not to take chances if I don't need to do so.

No two people are going to agree on what is the 'best" oil out there, and I am not trying to change any minds. Hoppes 9 Lubricating Oil, however, will not be at the top of my favorites list. Hoppes is made with mineral oil which is actually a petroleum by-product, produced by fractional distillation of crude oil. Mineral oils have cyclic and alkane components. Mineral oils are often the base stock in a lubricant, hydraulic fluid or heat transfer fluid formulations. Since mineral oil comes from the refining of crude oil as all the other oils, its toxological properties are not much different than other oils. Since Hoppes contains 100% mineral oil, it cannot offer the same corrosion protection as many other products that contain rust inhibitor additives. Also, mineral oil is a light petroleum distillate with a high volatility rate, so is not going to stick around long.

So Mobil 1 has rust inhibitors, while Hoppes 9 Lubricating oil has none, so I will stick with my stuff along with Barricade and a few other oils with proper additives.

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Gary
SWCA 2515

Perhaps an unrefined mineral oil, but I just can't see how motor oil of any type would come close to the toxicological profile of USP white mineral oil and I don't know of too many motor oils you can drink or rub on a baby's skin. It's true, Mineral oil is kind of light and doesn't offer extreme rust/corrosion protection, but unless you're a Navy SEAL, you usually don't need extreme protection. I only own Glock's and Stainless Steel and aluminum revolvers, so plain mineral oil works just fine for me. It does well on my carry knives as well and has done so for decades. YMMV

The only type I was referring to was the mineral oil in Hoppes. Here is the MSDS Sheet on Hoppes 9 Lubricating Oil.

http://www.noblegov.com/media/catalo...ds/N130C29.pdf

Health hazards stated are quite similar to Mobil 1. Here is the MSDS for Mobil 1.

http://www.partinfo.co.uk/files/1462...W30%20MSDS.pdf

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Gary
SWCA 2515

Mobil 1 5w-30 Full Synthetic. Really.

What are the forums thoughts on mixing together Ezzox for rust preventative and Mobil 1 for lubrication???

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GARY
SWCA #2897, SWHF #436

I never mix chemicals together as there are sometimes negative reactions. Even if I was a Chemist (which I am not), I have no way of knowing what and how much of each component is in a specific product. In general I think mixing is a bad idea.

Read the reasoning behind the development of Ed's Red.

There would be no reason to do that as Eezox IS a Synthetic oil.

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Still Running Against the Wind

By the way fellers, yesterday I actually tested this B/C Synthetic oil on the inside of a few guns and it does work exceptionally well as a lubricant! I think I will continue using this product for lubrication on trigger groups and my usual Rig#2 oil for cleaning & on the outer finish of my guns as a protectant. Rig +P Grease on slides and bolts.

I don't wax guns - because all of mine get shot and I am not into re-waxing them each time after they get cleaned and old wax is removed. To me, wax is for guns that are safe queens and rarely if ever get shot. YES, Renwax is amazing for making a gun shine and might even protect them, but won't do much to lubricate them. If some of the oils, solvents and cleaners we use gets on the wax (unavoidable) then I would think it would be removed or thinned out - so a re-application would be necessary. Too much of a P.I.T.A. to me.

I recall being told when the BC synthetic first came out that it was in fact a product called "Anderol" repackaged by BC. Anderol is a synthetic oil that had a very good reputation among bullseye shooters in the past, and as I recall was also recommended by Ruger, "in the good old days."

I had both, and I recall that they looked and smelled the same. I have no more evidence one way or the other, and I don't know whether the current BC synthetic is the same formulation. So, this may be fact, or legend.

Could be....... don't really know and quite honestly it doesn't much matter as long as it works as well as I have witnessed so far. In today's Global economy I can't think of much that is 100% made by any one Company anymore. I know all the oil that is marketed by Car Dealers is all made by major oil companies and probably most oils with gun companies names on the can is as well.

The way I see it any oil is better than no oil for lubing firearm internals. I think Mobil 1 would do a good job of it and if it's good enough for a Formula 1 engine turning 19,000 RPM's it's probably good enough for revolver work. Jerry Miculik is the only one turning that kind of RPM's

eezeox outside, shooters choice red grease inside. works for me and ALL of the guns i use it on. been doing it for 10 years now. balistol smells like rotten socks to me...

I am still using a can of Anderol Preservative. The can has Birchwood Chemical Co., Inc. and Casey Chemical, Inc., Hopkins, Minn. on it. The can is 40 years old. The preservative still works great.

When I purchased a new AMT Hardballer Longslide .45 in 1980, the factory recommended the Birchwood Casey Synthetic Oil to prevent galling. I did, and never had any problems.

WOW! I did not realize it has been around since 1980! I thought it was a relatively new product.

Look at this Comprehensive Corrosion Test: 46 Products Compared : Day At The Range

Great info....thanks for taking the time !

Skeeter here: (friend of Chief 38) I used to use Rig #2 and Rig +P grease (at Chief 38's recommendation) "until", I discovered Inox MX3 oil and MX6 Grease. These products were discussed and tested ad-nauseum over on the Beretta forum and the results are truly amazing. Inox products are mostly food grade and their lubricity properties are second to none. There will always be something new and better (maybe) coming out on the market. At some point, we all just settle in to what we like and works for us. For those that haven't tried Inox MX3 oil and MX6 grease.............you may want to look into them.

REMEMBER: I was posting strictly in regards to LUBRICITY and I did state I have not used or tested this product for rust prevention yet. In the Lubrication dept. this product has been incredible so far - as far as cleaning and rust prevention - - I'll eventually get to that as well.