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04-24-2014, 07:57 AM
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M&P Shield 9mm breakdown
Is there a way to breakdown the M&P Shield 9mm WITHOUT using a screwdriver or something to press down the little yellow 'thing' inside the gun?
Thanks in advance
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04-24-2014, 08:11 AM
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1) remove magazine
2) lock slide back, confirm firearm is unloaded.
3) let slide go forward and repeat step 2 just to be sure (visually confirm no round in chamber and magazine is nowhere close to firearm).
4) push down takedown lever (and visually confirm again the firearm is not loaded).
5) release slide stop holding onto slide so it does not slam shut.
6) be sure firearm is pointed in safe direction (read not at any of your body parts or those of anyone else)
7) pull trigger
8) take slide off.
Long way of saying, yes, just pull the trigger when the slide is closed.
I tend to push the yellow lever down myself since it does force steps 1 and 2 above to visually check. However, in a pinch the alternate method works (it is essentially the same takedown procedure as with a Springfield XD or Glock type action).
Jeff
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04-24-2014, 08:12 AM
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Disclaimer - if you shoot yourself, don't blame me.
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04-24-2014, 08:44 AM
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YEP, I agree, that's how i do it.....remove the magazine, pull back the slide while ejecting any round. MAKE SURE IT'S EMPTY.. and pull the trigger down range. pull slide forward to break down shield.
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04-24-2014, 10:14 AM
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That's how I do it as well.
If you feel the need to be extra careful about verifying that the chamber is empty (step 2 or 3), after visually verifying an empty chamber, stick your pinky IN the chamber, then proceed.
Many unintentional discharges into a wall/floor/ceiling with Glocks during cleaning is due to skipping step 2 and 3.
Last edited by RobzGuns; 04-24-2014 at 10:16 AM.
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04-24-2014, 10:42 AM
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You can use a ball point pen (tip retracted) as a handy tool to move the little lever.
Personally I don't stick my fingers into the action, ever, but I understand the value of physical verification that the gun is EMPTY.
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04-24-2014, 12:01 PM
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Thanks everyone! I was worried for a while. I had a G19, and thus could breakdown the gun no matter where I was, i.e. I didn't need any additional 'tools'.
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04-24-2014, 12:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by naviwilliams
Thanks everyone! I was worried for a while. I had a G19, and thus could breakdown the gun no matter where I was, i.e. I didn't need any additional 'tools'.
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Navi,
You do realize that the tool that holds your backstraps on can and is designed to push the sear deactivation lever down, right. No extra tools needed, you always have the correct tool with you. Me personally, I like to use a wooden shish kabob stick to push the lever down. Pencils work too...
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04-24-2014, 12:38 PM
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Actually, no. I'm still learning, and trying to understand how it all works, etc.
I've watched a few videos on how others take down the M&P Shield, and they all seem to use 'something' to press the yellow bar.
Quote:
Originally Posted by AGoyette
Navi,
You do realize that the tool that holds your backstraps on can and is designed to push the sear deactivation lever down, right. No extra tools needed, you always have the correct tool with you. Me personally, I like to use a wooden shish kabob stick to push the lever down. Pencils work too...
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04-24-2014, 12:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by naviwilliams
Actually, no. I'm still learning, and trying to understand how it all works, etc.
I've watched a few videos on how others take down the M&P Shield, and they all seem to use 'something' to press the yellow bar.
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Shield doesn't have a backstrap or tool the way other M&P's do.
A key, a flat screwdriver, a stick, or the above outlined 'pull the trigger' method all work equally well.
Just be safe and observe steps 2 and 3 all the time.
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04-24-2014, 01:07 PM
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What yellow lever? I don't see one on my 9mm Shield. Everything is black or silver. What am I missing?
I use the method in post 2 for almost all my semi-auto pistols. Some need the trigger pulled, some don't. Not really an issue unless you forget to confirm the gun is unloaded, in which case you shouldn't be handling firearms anyway.
The Ruger SR45 has an ejector lever that needs a pushing down, but it's black.
The 1911 is in a league of its own for breakdown complexity. at least in my experience.
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04-24-2014, 01:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eugene 9mm
What yellow lever? I don't see one on my 9mm Shield. Everything is black or silver. What am I missing?
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I didn't see yellow lever either. Am I missing something too?
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04-24-2014, 01:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MozartMan
I didn't see yellow lever either. Am I missing something too?
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It comes up right underneath the ejector. It flips towards the front of the grip and deactivates the sear. Before I thread a swab or brush into my cleaning rod, I use the open end to flip the lever forward.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
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04-24-2014, 02:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scooter89
It comes up right underneath the ejector. It flips towards the front of the grip and deactivates the sear. Before I thread a swab or brush into my cleaning rod, I use the open end to flip the lever forward.
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Thanks, I see what we're talking about now. I wasn't aware it was supposed to be touched during a regular field strip. Mine's silvery with coating on it which I suppose is meant to be yellow, but it's no banana.
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04-24-2014, 02:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eugene 9mm
Thanks, I see what we're talking about now. I wasn't aware it was supposed to be touched during a regular field strip. Mine's silvery with coating on it which I suppose is meant to be yellow, but it's no banana.
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yep, you found it...lol...all 3 of my m&p's have very little yellow on the lever...
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04-24-2014, 07:21 PM
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I just got home, and this worked perfectly. Thanks; I appreciate all your help...
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffnles1
1) remove magazine
2) lock slide back, confirm firearm is unloaded.
3) let slide go forward and repeat step 2 just to be sure (visually confirm no round in chamber and magazine is nowhere close to firearm).
4) push down takedown lever (and visually confirm again the firearm is not loaded).
5) release slide stop holding onto slide so it does not slam shut.
6) be sure firearm is pointed in safe direction (read not at any of your body parts or those of anyone else)
7) pull trigger
8) take slide off.
Long way of saying, yes, just pull the trigger when the slide is closed.
I tend to push the yellow lever down myself since it does force steps 1 and 2 above to visually check. However, in a pinch the alternate method works (it is essentially the same takedown procedure as with a Springfield XD or Glock type action).
Jeff
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04-25-2014, 11:57 AM
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thanks jeffnles1, learn something every day, this can be done in all MP line correct ?
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04-25-2014, 02:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eugene 9mm
What yellow lever? I don't see one on my 9mm Shield. Everything is black or silver. What am I missing?
I use the method in post 2 for almost all my semi-auto pistols. Some need the trigger pulled, some don't. Not really an issue unless you forget to confirm the gun is unloaded, in which case you shouldn't be handling firearms anyway.
The Ruger SR45 has an ejector lever that needs a pushing down, but it's black.
The 1911 is in a league of its own for breakdown complexity. at least in my experience.
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I had to laugh when I read your post because I wrote the same thing when I first bought my Shield. I had to get a flashlight to find it. I use a fingernail to push it down although using a small tool is probably the right way to do it. Now if I could only reduce the 700 lbs (obviously an exaggeration) of pressure it takes to get the slide back and locked, I would be happy man (FYI about 500 rounds it got a lot easier but my wife still has problems doing it).
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04-25-2014, 02:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ca survivor
thanks jeffnles1, learn something every day, this can be done in all MP line correct ?
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Yup. I too still push the lever using whatever I have laying around. I can even get my pinky in there to push the lever down if I have nothing else.
And yes, that lever looks almost silver rather than yellow.
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04-25-2014, 06:40 PM
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Try youtube
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04-27-2014, 12:19 PM
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Thanks for all the tips. The breakdown was rather easy with the trigger pull etc.
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Smith and Wesson M&P 9mm
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04-27-2014, 01:32 PM
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Why did S&W have to complicate things with the little yellow lever...maybe just to be different (from Glock)...you should not own a firearm if your not competent enough make sure its unloaded to field strip it...whether that calls for pulling the trigger or not...I never use the lever...
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04-27-2014, 02:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skip4309
Why did S&W have to complicate things with the little yellow lever...
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Because many people -including "professionals"- have proven their inability to make sure a gun is unloaded before pulling a trigger.
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04-27-2014, 02:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skip4309
Why did S&W have to complicate things with the little yellow lever...maybe just to be different (from Glock)...you should not own a firearm if your not competent enough make sure its unloaded to field strip it...whether that calls for pulling the trigger or not...I never use the lever...
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A fellow competitor put a 9MM through his hand disassembling a Glock. This fellow has been shooting for years. It happens. He had a brain fart.
That's why in my note above, I stressed steps 2 and 3.
Jeff
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05-15-2017, 04:42 PM
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I know this is an ancient thread, but as a new California edition Shield 9 owner (meaning it also has the magazine disconnect) it appears that these steps to dry fire in lieu of flipping the yellow tab doesn't work for me (or is it just me?)
Does anyone with the magazine disconnect "feature" know if there is a way to remove the slide without manipulating the yellow tab?
I'm new to this forum so, please, be easy on me!
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05-15-2017, 05:15 PM
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M&P Shield 9mm breakdown
Quote:
Originally Posted by InsideWaist
California edition Shield 9 owner (meaning it also has the magazine disconnect) it appears that these steps to dry fire in lieu of flipping the yellow tab doesn't work for me (or is it just me?)
Does anyone with the magazine disconnect "feature" know if there is a way to remove the slide without manipulating the yellow tab?
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yes, removing the mag disconnect
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M&P 9, Shield9.
Last edited by Shield9mm; 05-15-2017 at 05:17 PM.
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05-15-2017, 05:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shield9mm
yes, removing the mag disconnect
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True.
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05-15-2017, 06:32 PM
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No, you don't have to remove the mag disconnect.
- Lock the slide back and ensure you don't have a bullet in the chamber.
- Put an empty magazine in the gun
- Rotate the takedown lever so that it points down
- Pull the slide back while holding the slide lock down and ride the slide closed.
- Pull the trigger
- PUSH THE MAGAZINE RELEASE BUTTON AND PULL THE MAGAZINE OUT OF THE GUN. The magazine on the Shield does't pop out like it does on the fullsize M&P
- When you do this, the slide will release forward and you can continue the field strip
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05-15-2017, 07:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rsrocket1
No, you don't have to remove the mag disconnect.
- Lock the slide back and ensure you don't have a bullet in the chamber.
- Put an empty magazine in the gun
- Rotate the takedown lever so that it points down
- Pull the slide back while holding the slide lock down and ride the slide closed.
- Pull the trigger
- PUSH THE MAGAZINE RELEASE BUTTON AND PULL THE MAGAZINE OUT OF THE GUN. The magazine on the Shield does't pop out like it does on the fullsize M&P
- When you do this, the slide will release forward and you can continue the field strip
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Thanks for a detailed step-by-step outline.
However, it must be me or my gun. After Step #5 (trigger pull), the slide does move forward just a bit (between 1/8 and 1/4 of an inch). I then proceed to remove the mag, but after that, the slide doesn't move forward any more.
I lightly tapped on the back end of the slide; I tried using a full grip to move it forward; No further movement forward.
Last edited by InsideWaist; 05-15-2017 at 07:32 PM.
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05-15-2017, 07:30 PM
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Do be careful with that yellow lever. Pushing it too far will cause problems. Gently push it until it comes to it's first stop. No further.
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05-15-2017, 09:23 PM
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I always use the little red tube that comes with my CLP, works perfectly for this.
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05-15-2017, 09:42 PM
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When in doubt check out the user manual..............................
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05-15-2017, 09:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Robert
When in doubt check out the user manual..............................
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My manual only shows the yellow tab thingy method. I was just curious if the mag-insert-trigger-pull cadence would be a viable substitute option.
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05-15-2017, 10:03 PM
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I make sure its clear and pull the trigger...faster and easier than dealing with that lever
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05-15-2017, 10:10 PM
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Since the trigger-pull sequence is working for most (all?) of you, I honestly think that it's with the California ("idiot-proof") edition that doesn't work and that we have to use that yellow lever, no matter what. Of course, it could always be my fault and I'm not doing this correctly.
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05-16-2017, 05:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffnles1
1) remove magazine
2) lock slide back, confirm firearm is unloaded.
3) let slide go forward and repeat step 2 just to be sure (visually confirm no round in chamber and magazine is nowhere close to firearm).
4) push down takedown lever (and visually confirm again the firearm is not loaded).
5) release slide stop holding onto slide so it does not slam shut.
6) be sure firearm is pointed in safe direction (read not at any of your body parts or those of anyone else)
7) pull trigger
8) take slide off.
Long way of saying, yes, just pull the trigger when the slide is closed.
I tend to push the yellow lever down myself since it does force steps 1 and 2 above to visually check. However, in a pinch the alternate method works (it is essentially the same takedown procedure as with a Springfield XD or Glock type action).
Jeff
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SAME WAY I BREAKDOWN MY SHIELD 40..
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06-26-2017, 12:56 AM
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Just wanted to thank the posters for offering up several methods to perform the takedown of my new 9mm shield, Calif. compliant. Both ways worked for me, starting with the mag inserted as I could not figure out the "yellow" wire, which is no longer yellow, at least on my new purchase.
Gave me a good excuse to join the forum.
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