M&P Shield 9mm breakdown

ivanwi11iams

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Is there a way to breakdown the M&P Shield 9mm WITHOUT using a screwdriver or something to press down the little yellow 'thing' inside the gun?

Thanks in advance
 
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1) remove magazine
2) lock slide back, confirm firearm is unloaded.
3) let slide go forward and repeat step 2 just to be sure (visually confirm no round in chamber and magazine is nowhere close to firearm).
4) push down takedown lever (and visually confirm again the firearm is not loaded).
5) release slide stop holding onto slide so it does not slam shut.
6) be sure firearm is pointed in safe direction (read not at any of your body parts or those of anyone else)
7) pull trigger
8) take slide off.

Long way of saying, yes, just pull the trigger when the slide is closed.

I tend to push the yellow lever down myself since it does force steps 1 and 2 above to visually check. However, in a pinch the alternate method works (it is essentially the same takedown procedure as with a Springfield XD or Glock type action).

Jeff
 
YEP, I agree, that's how i do it.....remove the magazine, pull back the slide while ejecting any round. MAKE SURE IT'S EMPTY.. and pull the trigger down range. pull slide forward to break down shield.
 
That's how I do it as well.
If you feel the need to be extra careful about verifying that the chamber is empty (step 2 or 3), after visually verifying an empty chamber, stick your pinky IN the chamber, then proceed. :)

Many unintentional discharges into a wall/floor/ceiling with Glocks during cleaning is due to skipping step 2 and 3.
 
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You can use a ball point pen (tip retracted) as a handy tool to move the little lever.

Personally I don't stick my fingers into the action, ever, but I understand the value of physical verification that the gun is EMPTY.
 
Thanks everyone! I was worried for a while. I had a G19, and thus could breakdown the gun no matter where I was, i.e. I didn't need any additional 'tools'.
 
Thanks everyone! I was worried for a while. I had a G19, and thus could breakdown the gun no matter where I was, i.e. I didn't need any additional 'tools'.

Navi,
You do realize that the tool that holds your backstraps on can and is designed to push the sear deactivation lever down, right. No extra tools needed, you always have the correct tool with you. Me personally, I like to use a wooden shish kabob stick to push the lever down. Pencils work too...
 
Actually, no. I'm still learning, and trying to understand how it all works, etc.

I've watched a few videos on how others take down the M&P Shield, and they all seem to use 'something' to press the yellow bar.

Navi,
You do realize that the tool that holds your backstraps on can and is designed to push the sear deactivation lever down, right. No extra tools needed, you always have the correct tool with you. Me personally, I like to use a wooden shish kabob stick to push the lever down. Pencils work too...
 
Actually, no. I'm still learning, and trying to understand how it all works, etc.

I've watched a few videos on how others take down the M&P Shield, and they all seem to use 'something' to press the yellow bar.

Shield doesn't have a backstrap or tool the way other M&P's do.

A key, a flat screwdriver, a stick, or the above outlined 'pull the trigger' method all work equally well.

Just be safe and observe steps 2 and 3 all the time. :)
 
What yellow lever? I don't see one on my 9mm Shield. Everything is black or silver. What am I missing?

I use the method in post 2 for almost all my semi-auto pistols. Some need the trigger pulled, some don't. Not really an issue unless you forget to confirm the gun is unloaded, in which case you shouldn't be handling firearms anyway.

The Ruger SR45 has an ejector lever that needs a pushing down, but it's black.

The 1911 is in a league of its own for breakdown complexity. at least in my experience.
 
I didn't see yellow lever either. Am I missing something too?

It comes up right underneath the ejector. It flips towards the front of the grip and deactivates the sear. Before I thread a swab or brush into my cleaning rod, I use the open end to flip the lever forward.

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It comes up right underneath the ejector. It flips towards the front of the grip and deactivates the sear. Before I thread a swab or brush into my cleaning rod, I use the open end to flip the lever forward.

Thanks, I see what we're talking about now. I wasn't aware it was supposed to be touched during a regular field strip. Mine's silvery with coating on it which I suppose is meant to be yellow, but it's no banana.
 
Thanks, I see what we're talking about now. I wasn't aware it was supposed to be touched during a regular field strip. Mine's silvery with coating on it which I suppose is meant to be yellow, but it's no banana.


yep, you found it...lol...all 3 of my m&p's have very little yellow on the lever...
 
I just got home, and this worked perfectly. Thanks; I appreciate all your help...

1) remove magazine
2) lock slide back, confirm firearm is unloaded.
3) let slide go forward and repeat step 2 just to be sure (visually confirm no round in chamber and magazine is nowhere close to firearm).
4) push down takedown lever (and visually confirm again the firearm is not loaded).
5) release slide stop holding onto slide so it does not slam shut.
6) be sure firearm is pointed in safe direction (read not at any of your body parts or those of anyone else)
7) pull trigger
8) take slide off.

Long way of saying, yes, just pull the trigger when the slide is closed.

I tend to push the yellow lever down myself since it does force steps 1 and 2 above to visually check. However, in a pinch the alternate method works (it is essentially the same takedown procedure as with a Springfield XD or Glock type action).

Jeff
 
thanks jeffnles1, learn something every day, this can be done in all MP line correct ?
 
What yellow lever? I don't see one on my 9mm Shield. Everything is black or silver. What am I missing?

I use the method in post 2 for almost all my semi-auto pistols. Some need the trigger pulled, some don't. Not really an issue unless you forget to confirm the gun is unloaded, in which case you shouldn't be handling firearms anyway.

The Ruger SR45 has an ejector lever that needs a pushing down, but it's black.

The 1911 is in a league of its own for breakdown complexity. at least in my experience.

I had to laugh when I read your post because I wrote the same thing when I first bought my Shield. I had to get a flashlight to find it. I use a fingernail to push it down although using a small tool is probably the right way to do it. Now if I could only reduce the 700 lbs (obviously an exaggeration) of pressure it takes to get the slide back and locked, I would be happy man (FYI about 500 rounds it got a lot easier but my wife still has problems doing it).
 
thanks jeffnles1, learn something every day, this can be done in all MP line correct ?

Yup. I too still push the lever using whatever I have laying around. I can even get my pinky in there to push the lever down if I have nothing else.

And yes, that lever looks almost silver rather than yellow.
 
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