Just purchased supressor

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mkess

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Ok, I bit the bullet yesterday and purchased a Sparrow can for my 15-22 and keltec p17. Not gonna lie, I didn't do much research on this subject and it was kind of an impulse buy. What do I need to know about having a can and is there anything else I would need for it?
 
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I recently picked up a FN 522 and a Dead Air Mask and the combo is a blast to shoot. I've heard good things about the Sparrow also, as it was mentioned quite a few times in the thread that Onomea started while researching rimfire cans. I haven't tried mine on a rifle length barrel yet, but I know that even high velocity ammo stays subsonic in 4" and under barrels. You would probably have to go to CCI subsonic or hunter quiet ammo to stay sub in your 15-22, which is an added expense over the more readily available HV ammo.

I picked up a rimfire bullet trap/target on amazon and set up a 20ft range in my garage. It gets addicting; I'm up to at least a few hundred rounds a week with the easy access to my garage range.

With rimfire ammo, you'll need to clean your can about every 500 rounds or so. There are a few ways to do this, depending on if you can disassemble it or not. I made sure I got one that disassembled for cleaning and inspection.

Make sure you tighten it well, and check it after every other mag. If it loosens, (called "walkoff") you may have a baffle or end cap bullet strike. Though I think it's more of a problem with larger centerfire cartridges.

Here's a couple of threads I started about the bullet trap and how I clean my can:

tlawler

Thread 'The most fun you can have in your garage! *Update in post #7*'

After following Onomea's odyssey of finding a .22 suppressor and host(and learning a LOT about the subject…thanks everyone!), I took the plunge and picked up a FN 502 along with a Dead Air Mask suppressor. Wait times are down to just a few days now(in some cases, hours) and mine took four days plus an extra day since the shop was closed on Monday. When I got it home, I decided to try it out with a home made bullet trap I cobbled together. It was quiet enough that I didn't disturb mrs. tlawler watching her gardening show in the living room. At that point, I didn't even have a target set up...
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tlawler

Thread 'Figured out the best way to clean suppressor baffles'

At this point, I've put almost 2K rounds of .22 LR through my dead air mask .22 suppressor and several hundred, but probably less than 1K through my rugged obsidian .45. I had been noticing a degradation in suppression and mrs tlawler even mentioned that the mask wasn't as quiet as it was when new and I first started shooting in my garage range.

I watched a couple of youtube videos on disassembly and was able to get the baffles out of the tubes with a little persuasion with appropriately sized wooden dowels and a rubber mallet. I was amazed at how dirty the .22 suppressor was, and the...
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mkess said:
Ok, I bit the bullet yesterday and purchased a Sparrow can for my 15-22 and keltec p17. Not gonna lie, I didn't do much research on this subject and it was kind of an impulse buy. What do I need to know about having a can and is there anything else I would need for it?
Click to expand...
That's a nice can. I have one. I use it all the time on my 15-22s.

Some things to consider:
1. Removing the flash hider for the first time requires clamping to the barrel not the receiver. It is possible to twist the barrel inside the upper and bending the ejector.
2. The 15-22 muzzle threads are .6" long. Many 22LR suppressors, including the Sparrow spec the muzzle thread at .4" long. Lead and carbon can accumulate on the threads inside the can making it difficult to remove the suppressor. Solutions include a .2" suppressor spacer or having a good gunsmith shorten the threads. Check the specs on the SilencerCo website. They include a flat spot on the end of the muzzle for an O-ring.
3. Don't use the crush washer with a suppressor. I have used plumbing thread tape when using full auto to keep the suppressor tight.
4. Regularly check the suppressor for tightness during use. Cary a Nomex oven mitt in the range bag because they get hot.
5. I clean my suppressor every 1000 rounds. Rimefire cans get dirty fast. The Sparrow is one of the easiest to take apart.
 
strobro32 said:
4. Regularly check the suppressor for tightness during use. Cary a Nomex oven mitt in the range bag because they get hot.
Click to expand...

I made the mistake of only taking my 7.5" 10/22 armadillo rifle to the range. I only shoot it suppressed. I had to wait close to 20 minutes for it to cool enough to put back in the case I brought it in.

Now I take a second or 3rd gun to shoot while it cools off. My 22 suppressor is all stainless and holds heat a long time.
 
strobro32 said:
That's a nice can. I have one. I use it all the time on my 15-22s.

Some things to consider:
1. Removing the flash hider for the first time requires clamping to the barrel not the receiver. It is possible to twist the barrel inside the upper and bending the ejector.
2. The 15-22 muzzle threads are .6" long. Many 22LR suppressors, including the Sparrow spec the muzzle thread at .4" long. Lead and carbon can accumulate on the threads inside the can making it difficult to remove the suppressor. Solutions include a .2" suppressor spacer or having a good gunsmith shorten the threads. Check the specs on the SilencerCo website. They include a flat spot on the end of the muzzle for an O-ring.
3. Don't use the crush washer with a suppressor. I have used plumbing thread tape when using full auto to keep the suppressor tight.
4. Regularly check the suppressor for tightness during use. Cary a Nomex oven mitt in the range bag because they get hot.
5. I clean my suppressor every 1000 rounds. Rimefire cans get dirty fast. The Sparrow is one of the easiest to take apart.
Click to expand...
You have a full auto 15-22??
 
Be sure you guys are running those rimfire cans wet. Mine calls for a teaspoon of liquid (I use Breakfree) down the bore. It makes a remarkable difference in dB reduction vs a dry can.

My first host was a Sig Mosquito. It ran perfectly for me & when I used subsonics, all you could hear was noise of the slide moving. ;)

My newest host is the FN 522. .22 cans & pistols are just SO much fun around the house. :giggle:
 
Rule3 said:
Looks like fun but how do you get by with legal stuff with that?
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It's completely legal under a DOJ settlement, unless prohibited by each state.

Rare Breed Triggers’ FRT-15s and Wide-Open Triggers (WOTs) Return | Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives

If you are the possessor of an FRT-15 and/or WOT believed to be in ATF custody as the result of a recall and you have not yet received a notice regarding the steps to take to have your device(s) returned, please email [email protected]. In your email, please include: Your name Mailing address...
www.atf.gov www.atf.gov

I'm using a metal Hoffman Tactical Super Safety which is far superior and cheaper to the FRT-15 that Rare Greed sold and then tried to claim patent infringement against all the SS makers.
 
strobro32 said:
It's completely legal under a DOJ settlement, unless prohibited by each state.

Rare Breed Triggers’ FRT-15s and Wide-Open Triggers (WOTs) Return | Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives

If you are the possessor of an FRT-15 and/or WOT believed to be in ATF custody as the result of a recall and you have not yet received a notice regarding the steps to take to have your device(s) returned, please email [email protected]. In your email, please include: Your name Mailing address...
www.atf.gov www.atf.gov

I'm using a metal Hoffman Tactical Super Safety which is far superior and cheaper to the FRT-15 that Rare Greed sold and then tried to claim patent infringement against all the SS makers.
Click to expand...
Thanks. as mentioned above here in FL we can not have those:(
 
ISCS Yoda said:
What, precisely, does this mean:



View attachment 772570
Click to expand...


All of my cans owner's manuals say to add a teaspoon of liquid down the can bore. This obviously injects humidity into the exhaust process. Some use water, others use 3-in-1 oil, I use Breakfree.

I don't recall the dB difference between wet & dry, that will vary from can brand & model to another. But the info is out there in testing of different cans.

Running it wet with light oil also helps cleaning in my nasty rimfire can.
 
bobsguns said:
All of my cans owner's manuals say to add a teaspoon of liquid down the can bore. This obviously injects humidity into the exhaust process. Some use water, others use 3-in-1 oil, I use Breakfree.

I don't recall the dB difference between wet & dry, that will vary from can brand & model to another. But the info is out there in testing of different cans.

Running it wet with light oil also helps cleaning in my nasty rimfire can.
Click to expand...
I have some 3 in 1 and I hadn't read or heard of that. But my FFL who sold me my cans told me to use some CLP after I cleaned it. I guess it makes sense. How about a blast of wd-40?
 
wwsmith111 said:
I have some 3 in 1 and I hadn't read or heard of that. But my FFL who sold me my cans told me to use some CLP after I cleaned it. I guess it makes sense. How about a blast of wd-40?
Click to expand...



WD40 should NEVER be around firearms. Over time it gunks up & will dry out. Not what a lube should do, IMO.

I just pour a capful of Breakfree down the can before I mount it. I pour from the barrel end as I guess the heat is the hottest there.
 
I have a Bowers Paradigm, a .22 suppressor. I asked about whether I should use some sort of liquid in it. Here's what he told me:

"...don't put anything in your Paradigm. It's designed as a dry can, shoot it dry. Adding ablatives to dry cans will absolutely trap powder and residue that would normally have been able to escape..."

If advice on the topic is not included in accompanying paperwork, best to ask the manufacturer.
 
bobsguns said:
WD40 should NEVER be around firearms. Over time it gunks up & will dry out. Not what a lube should do, IMO.

I just pour a capful of Breakfree down the can before I mount it. I pour from the barrel end as I guess the heat is the hottest there.
Click to expand...
I've used WD40 for cleaning guns forever..............It works............Ya should not slather the innards of a gun with any kind of snake oil product.
 
WD40 is not a great lubricant. The initials WD stand for water displacement on rocket equipment. It was designed to displace water to prevent corrosion. It was not intended to be used solely as a lubricant. The number 40 stands for the number of trials they had before they settled on a viable product. As cited, it dries out and leaves a layer of crud behind that is dirt that stuck to the compound before it dried out.
 
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