RCBS Die Question 2

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BZimm

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Now that we've got the whole cardboard wafer thing worked out, I have another RCBS question. I appreciate you guys helping me out; I enjoy the technical aspect of this hobby a lot.

Ok, this is about an RCBS 3 die set for 38/357.

1) On the sizing die I've noticed that the decapping pin keeps loosening up. When I snug the pin up with the jam nut, the pin appears slightly off-center. Then during use it loosens up again but centers itself at the die opening. It is bent, right? Operationally it seems ok and knocks the primers out just fine, but to me it seems that I should get a new pin?

2) The set came with a spacer that enables switching from 38 to 357 and I understand that part. When new, this die set would have come with three of these spacers right? One for each die?

The great price I paid for this set ain't lookin' quite so great right now. Even if it did include a free cardboard wafer....

BZimm
 
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Why would you need a spacer for the sizing die?
Hint: You don't, you size to the bottom of the case, which is in the same place in the shell holder with both calibers.


The bell and seat/crimp dies work on the mouth of the case and need to go up 1/8" for .357.
 
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Make sure the decapper pin is straight in the die when you tighten it up. You could remove the pin, and lay it flat on a table to see if it is bent. If so, a few light taps with a small hammer should straighten it. It pays to have a couple spares, as they do break. If the retaining set screw / nut keeps loosening up, a drop of Locktite blue might help.

Larry
 
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Order a pack of the proper pins and toss the bent one you have. I double nut the threaded shaft and use a small set of pliers to tighten the cap. Use the same double nut to get the cap off. You could try locktite but I'd hate to see you not be able to get the cap off the next time you snap a pin. My 38/357 die set is Lyman, all others RCBS. I prefer RCBS.
Starting out on an old single stage I got really fast setting up dies. My 38/357 set had no spacer so when I swapped calibers I just readjusted the dies. You don't have to touch the first die. If I had the spacer I probably wouldn't use it.
 
I probably would not use locktite. You will need to take the die apart once in a while to clean it. Double nut is the answer.
 
I think he means the whole decapping rod become loose and off center. Center it nd if possible double nut it when straight like phonejack said. The dies only come with one spacer which as pointed out you don't need on the sizer. Call RCBS customer service. Bet they'll send you another spacer if you need it. Reason they only send one is cause most people load with a single stage press anyway.
 
You only need the spacer for the crimp die. The bullet seater die can be adjusted, and once the sizing die is set it will work for both cases.

My feelings are that if you can deprime without incident, the pin is probably not bent.
 
Two ways to center the decapping pin.

1. Just eyeball it . Center the pin in the die opening.

2. Decap a case, with slightly loose nut, keeping the pin in the case primer flash hole, make sure the case is centered in the shell holder (not off to one size) Then tighten the nut , with a little wrench , while the pin is still in the flash hole.

Remember ...not every and all flash holes will be dead center but most will be close, a little wiggle room in the shell holder will allow the case to self-center.

Tighten the nut with a wrench , I wouldn't use lock tight.
Buy a package of pins, a bent one is a pain and once bent they seem to never be as good as new. Straighten them untill you get a new one.

The spacer is for the crimping and seating die . Sizing die is OK all the way in. Adjust flairing stem as needed or buy a spacer if you like.
Hint , with revolver loads and roll crimps , seat bullet first and crimp in two separate steps . Ammo will be better and life easier.

Gary
 
I'm not sure I understand the mechanical necessity to double-nut the decapping rod. Since the rod is threaded into the die body, the single nut acts as a jam nut. Replacing the factory knurled round nut with an ordinary hex nut will provide all the security the rod needs.

Larry
 
Ok, I understand how to proceed with the sizing die and pin. And I'll get a pack of spares coming. I'll adjust the dies for 357 because I just got my order of new brass and 158gr bullets from Xtreme. I was set up for 38spl because I had some range brass and 105gr cast bullets on the shelf at the time. I have a Lee FCD in the turret so I'll be seating and crimping in two steps. I feel that is a better way to go.

Thank you kindly for all the help. You are a friendly bunch.

BZimm
 
lebomm said:
I'm not sure I understand the mechanical necessity to double-nut the decapping rod. Since the rod is threaded into the die body, the single nut acts as a jam nut. Replacing the factory knurled round nut with an ordinary hex nut will provide all the security the rod needs.

Larry
Click to expand...

The decapping rod for my Lyman die set has no screwdriver slot at the top. I use double nuts (jam nuts) to hold the rod and break loose the pin holder. Should of explained better.
 
I own and use RCBS dies almost exclusively, but many years ago I got tired of losing decapping pins and decapping rods to berdan cases or cases with off-center flash holes. I decided to make decapping a separate step in my reloading and bought a Lee Decapping die. I took the decapping assemblies out of my RCBS dies and that really simplified the process and eliminated broken or bent pins and rods.
 
The die set only comes with one spacer, but you can buy extras at a reasonable price. As stated by others, you don't need one for the sizer, and I also recommend buying a second crimping die to seat and crimp in two steps.
 
I also use the Lee universal decaping die. Don't want to size dirty cases. So decap, drop in thumbler, cleans case and primer pocket before I resize.
Grit is the enemy of a sizing die.
 
I double nut the darn decapper on some of my dies because it just won't stay tight for some reason. I also use a decapping die for certain calibers(223 45 auto and 38s) as it is mostly range brass..meaning dirty..Have 3 set up on different old Herter's presses 2 in the garage and one down in the loading room in the basement. Those ol presses aren't worth much so I don't worry about dirt and such. Then I clean the cases inspect and load. Is there any differences tween different decapping dies? I have a couple Dillons and a Lee and Sinclair. I guess the big difference is the cost, huh? The 2 Dillon's were given to me. The Sinclair I have never used. Got it a a gun show for 15 bucks...new
 
Once you have accumulated several die sets (of the same brand or mixed) you will find that there are many interchangeable parts. The threads are all ISE standard (and usually fine pitch). Adapter nuts and decapping pins are in just a few diameters. So, you can "Borrow" parts from on die set to see if you have bent or off center parts.

RCBS and Bonanza used to have vender's repair kits. I picked up a number of these as gun shops went out of business. Those really helped with mixing and matching parts!

Having spare decapping pins is a must. Some brands have more than one size (RCBS, older Bonanza, & Redding) some of them are "T" shaped (Dillon, and older Lyman). NOTE if you ever load PPC or BR cartridges, they use extra small flash holes to contain high pressures. Using regular small pins will enlarge the flash hole and make the cases not as consistent as the cases with the extra small holes. (I did this to 55 of my 22 BR cases by decapping in a universal decapping die! They no longer are as accurate!)

Ivan
 
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